MonoDJ123

My turbo in 95% completed and installed I just need my fuel to be bumped up now. I ordered a damn VORTECH FMU 10:1 but it never came in. I think the guy F***ed me from online. Now how can I increase my fuel pressure so I can run rich for a while with the turbo on and NOT trying to get it into boost. Is there any way on doing this. My dyno is set for next week for my tuning and ecu upgrade to (Chrome).

Nova_Dust

Larger fuel pump? Or you have done that already.

white92d15b7

try some bigger injectors . . like from a prelude, or dsm 440 injectors from a talon tsi !

MonoDJ123

if I install the injectors it'll run like **** without tuning. I live like 40 miles away from the tuner and imaging running 440cc injectors on the stock ecu.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

why dont you just have it towed. its a helluva lot cheaper than buying an FMU, and also a helluva lot safer. or if you wanna drive it there, disconnect the charge pipe and drive it there normally aspirated with a filter attached to your throttle body.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i wouldn't waste my money on a FMU. Its a crude way of delivering more fuel.
Brunos idea of disconnecting the charge pipe is a good idea if you don't wanna pay for a tow.
Crome is the muts nuts. Whos tuning your car?

RDub99

iTrader: (1)

this was my first thought..

Mr. Death

Just don't go into boost and drive around in the lower rpm range and you should be good. Theres no chance of your motor popping as long as you stay out of boost.

VTEC_Thunder

Actually I am building a 1994 cavalier V6 custom turbo setup. I installed fuel injectors from a 3800 supercharged V6 and drilled out the restrictors in the stock FPR. Then i installed an MSD inline fuel pump and an Edelbrock FMU as well as an autometer A/F ratio gauge.

This setup works great on this car. It surges a bit at idle but only when it's cold, and the A/F gauge stayes green while at 10-12 psi boost. The fuel pressure with this setup actually runs at a very low 20psi at idle and the FMU bumps it up as the boost increases.

I wouldn't say FMU's are a waste of money, this was the most simple way to boost the fuel system in this particular installation. (it was not very expensive)

It all depends on how you want to set it up, there are many options.

chris_si98

^^ to boost a honda engine it is stupid and un-safe to use a fmu. They just dump fuel according to your boost, which isn't exact at all. It is def. not a way of fuel management.

To the original poster.. just get it towed there, you obvs. were smart and spent the extra coin to dyno-tune it, so why not spendt he extra 150$ or so and get it towed. Or get your tuner to send you a basemap

VTEC_Thunder

I'm simply saying it was the best and simplest setup for that particular installation, not saying its the best for a Honda,

I agree with you, proper ecu tuning is needed with these high rpm, high compression engines.

Tow your car or drive carfully with the charge pipe off (i've done it before )

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i hope that you don't think just b/c your horribly innacurate A/F guage reads rich that your car is tuned.
Do a little research about a/f guages. The only read a narrowband signal (0-1v) so its completely useless in terms of tuning. I'm willing to bet that if you tossed a wideband (0-5v) in your air to fuel ratio would be super rich and you could make so much more power with good tuning....especially on a honda. And for what it costs to get your ecu chipped and a basemap made (which is what i would do over using a FMU) it would be just as cheap if not cheaper than buying an FMU.

chris_si98

not so much for the obd2 guys.. the price for the ecu and harness would be around the same price as an fmu

but for an obd1 guy.. it would be in the same ballpark