increase torque on B16a2
24-May-2003, 10:56 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 978
increase torque on B16a2
Hey guys,
how about would one go to increase not so much in the HP dept. but more so in the torque dept. in a B16a2 and staying N/A.
cost effective ways and expensive ways.
thanks in advnace
how about would one go to increase not so much in the HP dept. but more so in the torque dept. in a B16a2 and staying N/A.
cost effective ways and expensive ways.
thanks in advnace
...but really it's harder to get torque than it is to make hp on a b16...how much money can you spend
25-May-2003, 06:11 PM
#12
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,084
I say go add some stickazzz and get some v-tech yo! 
but seriously, I think the only way to add torque for a n/a motor is getting it stroked. Maybe tuning will give you some, but it won't give you much more.
stroking your motor ...
hahahah 
but seriously, I think the only way to add torque for a n/a motor is getting it stroked. Maybe tuning will give you some, but it won't give you much more.
stroking your motor ...
hahahah
25-May-2003, 10:23 PM
#13
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Posts: n/a
Don't give him silly ideas. Stroking a B16 would defeat the benefits of having the B16 to begin with.
the key is in the block. if you want to gain significant torque while staying N/A you will have to do something about the B16's short stroke.
Expensive ways:
Swap your block with a GSR or ITR block
Swap your block for a built B18A/B or B20 and do a frank setup.
get your block resleeved and bored out to like 84-86mm, run a B17A crank, rework your head.
the key is in the block. if you want to gain significant torque while staying N/A you will have to do something about the B16's short stroke.
Expensive ways:
Swap your block with a GSR or ITR block
Swap your block for a built B18A/B or B20 and do a frank setup.
get your block resleeved and bored out to like 84-86mm, run a B17A crank, rework your head.
25-May-2003, 11:45 PM
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,084
I know stroking the B16 would suck because of the near perfect rod stroke ratio, but he said B16A, not swapping blocks right? 
getting a B17A crank would be stroking it wouldn't it? Of course you're boring it too, but then how good would the r/s ratio be? I'm not too sure myself, but nothing compared to the B16A I assume
getting a B17A crank would be stroking it wouldn't it? Of course you're boring it too, but then how good would the r/s ratio be? I'm not too sure myself, but nothing compared to the B16A I assume
26-May-2003, 01:28 AM
#16
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Originally posted by ryuujin
I know stroking the B16 would suck because of the near perfect rod stroke ratio, but he said B16A, not swapping blocks right?
getting a B17A crank would be stroking it wouldn't it? Of course you're boring it too, but then how good would the r/s ratio be? I'm not too sure myself, but nothing compared to the B16A I assume
I know stroking the B16 would suck because of the near perfect rod stroke ratio, but he said B16A, not swapping blocks right?
getting a B17A crank would be stroking it wouldn't it? Of course you're boring it too, but then how good would the r/s ratio be? I'm not too sure myself, but nothing compared to the B16A I assume
it would be 1.68 with the B17A crank..not far off from 1.74 .. with the overbore you're looking at 1.9L .. another advantage to using the B17 crank is the deck heights are similar, so the B16 rods will work without any problems. with some of the more aggressive stroker kits you will run into clearnace issues. shave the head/block surface too much and you've got yourself 16 broken valves. over-rev a bit and you're looking at another full rebuild.
in comparison, gettign a stroker kit will put it down to 1.52-1.58 and get it to around 1.8L -2.0L with 81mm bore depending on the kit.. how much is a stroker kit? better off just getting a GSR block and switch them. it's cheaper, easier, and you'll get similar results.. and the GSR block will be stronger than the stroked block. it comes stock with balancer pieces on the crank shaft. the GSR crank is an extremely strong crank overall. it also comes stock with a main bearing girdle connected via dowel pins to keep everything in one piece. the b16's don't have this and they certainly aren't included in a stroker kit.
bottom line: you wnat a safe B16 do not buy an aftermarket stroker kit.
26-May-2003, 11:03 AM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Posts: 156
Yeah...
Besides a bigger block (B18)
You can go:
1. Cam gears
2. Long Runner Intake (Help torque production - hurt top end a little)
3. Closer ratio tranny (give you the illusion of more torque)
4. Deal with it, it is a Honda.
Besides a bigger block (B18)
You can go:
1. Cam gears
2. Long Runner Intake (Help torque production - hurt top end a little)
3. Closer ratio tranny (give you the illusion of more torque)
4. Deal with it, it is a Honda.
26-May-2003, 04:52 PM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,149
you are pretty much never ever gonna get any real low end torque outta any honda motor wiht out killing top end and revability. The b16 is a high reveing high hp motor...shoudlnt' have picked it if you wanted torque...your best bet is to get some cam gears ctr cams i/h/e and a vafc tune it and that will give you alittel more torque and a decent amoutn of high end power wiht soem nice midrange...
26-May-2003, 08:03 PM
#19
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,084
Originally posted by Jugglez
he said he wnated to keep it N/A
it would be 1.68 with the B17A crank..not far off from 1.74 .. with the overbore you're looking at 1.9L .. another advantage to using the B17 crank is the deck heights are similar, so the B16 rods will work without any problems. with some of the more aggressive stroker kits you will run into clearnace issues. shave the head/block surface too much and you've got yourself 16 broken valves. over-rev a bit and you're looking at another full rebuild.
in comparison, gettign a stroker kit will put it down to 1.52-1.58 and get it to around 1.8L -2.0L with 81mm bore depending on the kit.. how much is a stroker kit? better off just getting a GSR block and switch them. it's cheaper, easier, and you'll get similar results.. and the GSR block will be stronger than the stroked block. it comes stock with balancer pieces on the crank shaft. the GSR crank is an extremely strong crank overall. it also comes stock with a main bearing girdle connected via dowel pins to keep everything in one piece. the b16's don't have this and they certainly aren't included in a stroker kit.
bottom line: you wnat a safe B16 do not buy an aftermarket stroker kit.
he said he wnated to keep it N/A
it would be 1.68 with the B17A crank..not far off from 1.74 .. with the overbore you're looking at 1.9L .. another advantage to using the B17 crank is the deck heights are similar, so the B16 rods will work without any problems. with some of the more aggressive stroker kits you will run into clearnace issues. shave the head/block surface too much and you've got yourself 16 broken valves. over-rev a bit and you're looking at another full rebuild.
in comparison, gettign a stroker kit will put it down to 1.52-1.58 and get it to around 1.8L -2.0L with 81mm bore depending on the kit.. how much is a stroker kit? better off just getting a GSR block and switch them. it's cheaper, easier, and you'll get similar results.. and the GSR block will be stronger than the stroked block. it comes stock with balancer pieces on the crank shaft. the GSR crank is an extremely strong crank overall. it also comes stock with a main bearing girdle connected via dowel pins to keep everything in one piece. the b16's don't have this and they certainly aren't included in a stroker kit.
bottom line: you wnat a safe B16 do not buy an aftermarket stroker kit.
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