If I replace shocks, do I need alignment
#1
If I replace shocks, do I need alignment
I just lowered my car but want to replace the front shocks. I have yet to do the alignment and do not have time to swap the front shocks right now. If I do an alignment now, would I have to redo the alignment when I get the front shocks replaced?
#4
I understand, but you guys did not answer my question.
I just replaced the springs and the rear shocks. Did not do an alignment yet. I do not have time to replace front shocks yet. I want to do an alignment BUT I am replacing the front shocks in late April.
Question: If I replace the front shocks, do I need an alignment?
I just replaced the springs and the rear shocks. Did not do an alignment yet. I do not have time to replace front shocks yet. I want to do an alignment BUT I am replacing the front shocks in late April.
Question: If I replace the front shocks, do I need an alignment?
#5
If you replace any suspension component, then you should get an alignment. If you are going to be taking things apart again in April, I'm sure you can wait to get the alignment done then. I can't imagine your tires will wear excessively in 1 month.
#7
I disagree... I've explained it only about a ****ing thousand times on here, if you search you will get the explanation as to why alignment won't change after a shock swap. BTW, this is only true for wishbone equipped cars and multilinks. it does not apply to mcphearson strut cars... those you gotta align after every susp change.
for the rear washer trick, before or after, makes little difference. I'd do it before personally to see where you're at once you get the readout, and you can fine tune it afterwards. I used 2 washers per bolt and my alignment is the cats whiskers. check the DIY forum for my rear camber washer write-up.
for the rear washer trick, before or after, makes little difference. I'd do it before personally to see where you're at once you get the readout, and you can fine tune it afterwards. I used 2 washers per bolt and my alignment is the cats whiskers. check the DIY forum for my rear camber washer write-up.
#8
it wont?
i was always told, and even from my own experience when i first bought my eg back in the day, once shocks and springs are swapped (or, one or the other), that an alignment must be done once they are settled in/broken in...
as for that washer trick. it's pretty neat. saves money, and is easy to do
i was always told, and even from my own experience when i first bought my eg back in the day, once shocks and springs are swapped (or, one or the other), that an alignment must be done once they are settled in/broken in...
as for that washer trick. it's pretty neat. saves money, and is easy to do
#9
from another thread about ****ing camber....
"see I disagree about toe being out of spec when you remove dampeners only. the steering knuckle is not disturbed, therefore the alignment can't be off when talking about a 89-00 Civic suspension. only when you remove control arms right off the vehicle, then the alignment can be proper fuct."
Nicotine if you sit there and eyef*ck the suspension for 10-15 minutes, you will understand why this is absolutely true. the steering knuckle sits on the upper and lower ball joints, which locate the knuckle exactly in relation to the car. this is the only thing that determines suspension geometry, and it's set to work within ideal parameters with the suspension at stock ride height, which has about say 3 inches of ideal travel. you drop the car, you're taking away from the ideal 3 inches of travel, meaning you should re-adjust the geometry. however, once again, when the geometry is set up for THAT ride height, it won't change anymore until a component fails. the third component on the steering knuckle is the tie rod end. once your toe is set to be perfect at the given ride height... you can remove it and put it back a thousand times and it won't affect alignment as long as you don't turn the tie rod ends or disturb the steering rack (by removal or by the force of a curb or huge pothole).
so to review... the steering knucke and hence your alignment will go back to previous position each and every time so long as the control arms and tie rod remains undisturbed compared to the chassis. The points which locate the steering knuckle are all tapers, which guarantee alignment. the shock assembly has nothing to do at all with alignment other than determining ride height for the vehicle.
again, this is ENTIRELY NOT TRUE FOR MCPHEARSON strut cars, which is like 99% of vehicles out there. that is why you hear these stupid rumours from alignment people and other dumbasses, they just don't know better. this ONLY applies to 89-00 Civics for a fact, also some integras and possibly preludes and some accords.... also certain audi cars as well.
"see I disagree about toe being out of spec when you remove dampeners only. the steering knuckle is not disturbed, therefore the alignment can't be off when talking about a 89-00 Civic suspension. only when you remove control arms right off the vehicle, then the alignment can be proper fuct."
Nicotine if you sit there and eyef*ck the suspension for 10-15 minutes, you will understand why this is absolutely true. the steering knuckle sits on the upper and lower ball joints, which locate the knuckle exactly in relation to the car. this is the only thing that determines suspension geometry, and it's set to work within ideal parameters with the suspension at stock ride height, which has about say 3 inches of ideal travel. you drop the car, you're taking away from the ideal 3 inches of travel, meaning you should re-adjust the geometry. however, once again, when the geometry is set up for THAT ride height, it won't change anymore until a component fails. the third component on the steering knuckle is the tie rod end. once your toe is set to be perfect at the given ride height... you can remove it and put it back a thousand times and it won't affect alignment as long as you don't turn the tie rod ends or disturb the steering rack (by removal or by the force of a curb or huge pothole).
so to review... the steering knucke and hence your alignment will go back to previous position each and every time so long as the control arms and tie rod remains undisturbed compared to the chassis. The points which locate the steering knuckle are all tapers, which guarantee alignment. the shock assembly has nothing to do at all with alignment other than determining ride height for the vehicle.
again, this is ENTIRELY NOT TRUE FOR MCPHEARSON strut cars, which is like 99% of vehicles out there. that is why you hear these stupid rumours from alignment people and other dumbasses, they just don't know better. this ONLY applies to 89-00 Civics for a fact, also some integras and possibly preludes and some accords.... also certain audi cars as well.
#13
not your fault mike, it's just a half-truth perpetuated by half-wit alignment 'specialists' who deal with macphearson struts all day long and just don't know any better. and we accept it as truth since they are 'specialists'.
in reality very little is adjustable on a stock car... that's why accident cars with tweaked subframes never quite feel right after the accident... there just isnt' enough adjustability to compensate for the damage.
in reality very little is adjustable on a stock car... that's why accident cars with tweaked subframes never quite feel right after the accident... there just isnt' enough adjustability to compensate for the damage.
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