idles at 3000 when cold? running rich?
#1
idles at 3000 when cold? running rich?
my B16A1 motor starts beautifully but at a very high idle(3000 rpm then drops down to about 1100-1200 when warm)..on top of that it runs really rich on the gas where you smell it almost raw from the pump...
anyone experienced such symptoms before?
anyone experienced such symptoms before?
#2
ur car idles at 1100-1200rpms when warm?
Damn, turn them ***** down to like 750-900rpms. Theres an idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body.
My guess about the high idle when cold is the plastic peice in the fast idle thermo valve has come loose.
Damn, turn them ***** down to like 750-900rpms. Theres an idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body.
My guess about the high idle when cold is the plastic peice in the fast idle thermo valve has come loose.
#4
if you smell gas really bad, check for a fuel leak with the engine running. Check under the hood, around the fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel lines and fuel filter.
Then check underneath the car, look to see if you can see any fuel dripping down especially around the tank and filler neck.
Then check underneath the car, look to see if you can see any fuel dripping down especially around the tank and filler neck.
#6
Originally posted by chris_si98
i wouldn't go ahead and fiddle with the idle screw just yet.
You are def. running rich, find the cause and it should bring your idle down to 8-900
i wouldn't go ahead and fiddle with the idle screw just yet.
You are def. running rich, find the cause and it should bring your idle down to 8-900
#7
well..
on a cold start does it take a few extra cranks for it to start?
A lot of things could cause yout o run rich, vacuum leaks, leaky injector, bad fpr, faulty sensor(s), etc.
If you can give us more specific symptoms we may be able to help you out some more
on a cold start does it take a few extra cranks for it to start?
A lot of things could cause yout o run rich, vacuum leaks, leaky injector, bad fpr, faulty sensor(s), etc.
If you can give us more specific symptoms we may be able to help you out some more
#8
Originally posted by chris_si98
well..
on a cold start does it take a few extra cranks for it to start?
A lot of things could cause yout o run rich, vacuum leaks, leaky injector, bad fpr, faulty sensor(s), etc.
If you can give us more specific symptoms we may be able to help you out some more
well..
on a cold start does it take a few extra cranks for it to start?
A lot of things could cause yout o run rich, vacuum leaks, leaky injector, bad fpr, faulty sensor(s), etc.
If you can give us more specific symptoms we may be able to help you out some more
those are all the symptoms i have for now..car is currently got the top end off and awaiting a distributor. I just had the valves adjusted and noticed the dizzy should be swapped so i cant say the car's current behaviour if it were running with the valves done.
ill be able to add more on thurs nite as ill be putting the work ive done back together and ill start her up and update how she behaves but for now this is all im going with as far as symptoms go.
#9
just got a pm from a dude who informed me his friend has the exact same issues with his b16 and that the iacv was the culprit..
prior to me purchasing the car my friend (the seller) informed me he had cleaned out the iacv of carbon build up but had not replaced two gaskets that go into the iacv as well. he explained this was the reason for my check engine light..but he couldnt confirm the high idle and running rich to be related..
can someone confirm this?
also..if correct..what are the two bloody gaskets called? i tried to source them from partssource myself a week ago and no one is sure of what im talking about lol.
prior to me purchasing the car my friend (the seller) informed me he had cleaned out the iacv of carbon build up but had not replaced two gaskets that go into the iacv as well. he explained this was the reason for my check engine light..but he couldnt confirm the high idle and running rich to be related..
can someone confirm this?
also..if correct..what are the two bloody gaskets called? i tried to source them from partssource myself a week ago and no one is sure of what im talking about lol.
#11
Originally posted by chris_si98
its not two gaskets, its one "8" gasket. I'd go to honda for this gasket.. I doubt part source carries it.
Without that gasket in there.. you have a nice vacuum leak, which causes you to run rich. So fix it asap
its not two gaskets, its one "8" gasket. I'd go to honda for this gasket.. I doubt part source carries it.
Without that gasket in there.. you have a nice vacuum leak, which causes you to run rich. So fix it asap
does the ef have a way to pull codes btw? my maxima has a diagnostic mode ive used countless times..was wondering if i could pull the codes off the ecu the same way for the ef..?
#12
there is a light on the ecu itself that flashes. Its basically the same as checking codes on the obd1-2 cars, long flashes are 10 and short flashes are 1.
2 long and 1 short would be....21.
Go check the code(s) and report back.
2 long and 1 short would be....21.
Go check the code(s) and report back.
#13
Originally posted by zeeman
there is a light on the ecu itself that flashes. Its basically the same as checking codes on the obd1-2 cars, long flashes are 10 and short flashes are 1.
2 long and 1 short would be....21.
Go check the code(s) and report back.
there is a light on the ecu itself that flashes. Its basically the same as checking codes on the obd1-2 cars, long flashes are 10 and short flashes are 1.
2 long and 1 short would be....21.
Go check the code(s) and report back.
#18
a missing gasket will NOT cause a check engine light.
You're CEL is for something else (that also may contribute to your problem). If the problem is something electrical and it's an open circuit or un-intential ground or something, you don't need to start the car for the ECM to throw a code, it will read that the sensor is disconnected and throw the code. But if there is no CEL with the key to ACC unforunately your going to need to atleast start the car for it to come back.
You're CEL is for something else (that also may contribute to your problem). If the problem is something electrical and it's an open circuit or un-intential ground or something, you don't need to start the car for the ECM to throw a code, it will read that the sensor is disconnected and throw the code. But if there is no CEL with the key to ACC unforunately your going to need to atleast start the car for it to come back.