IACV Question
 

I've been trying to diagnose a problem with my car shutting off when dropping into neutral and coming to a complete stop. The car shuts off like it would if you turned the key in the ignition and all the electrical components are still on. So basically I read a few things and checking the IACV was one of them. However when I disconnect my IACV my revs drops to 0 but the car does not shut off. From what I have read the idle should read as 500 when I disconnect the IACV. Not sure but could my IACV be bad? The CEL only comes on if I disconnect it, and when my car starts in the morning it still fast idles.

thats normal that ur car drops in revs when you disconnect the iacv. is your car auto. hondas always rev around 1000 to 1200 when first started cause they are cold.

Car is Standard.. I know its suppose to drop but is it supposed to drop to 0 RPM?

Its not 0 that its falling to.
The first line on the gauge is 500. Take a better look at your cluster.

Oh Man your soooo right. I feel like such a noob.

if it was falling to 0 the car wouldnt be running. how long has the car been doing it? u should try adjusting ur idle control screw on the intake. its located on the top part of the throttle body big flat head screw when you loosen it off your idle will increase. when you tighten it, the idle will decrease

Is this a cold start problem???, Assuming that it's not, try adjusting the idle screw as suggested by Fiercecivic. :cheers:

No its when the engine is warm it is shutting off while driving whenever I stop. Then its hard to start afterwards. I am pretty sure its my ignitor or distributor and I am changing it this week.

Have you added anything that requires more vaccum?
Cause after turbo kit install, i would have that problem acouple times. Vaccum distruibtion block solved it for me.

I don't think it's your distributor, but I would check you timing if your doing it anyways.

are you talking about the vacuum log? (im not too sure of the technical term for it) I've heard it referred to a vacuum log before.

I've been looking for one.. where did u get yours and how much was it, if you don't mind me asking.

yea same thing chris....i ordered mine form mcmaster-carr.
It was priced at 16US...and came out to like 35CAN after shipping.
Fittings are extra, but can be found at local hardware store.
Its in middle of firewall in pic.
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/689e4280.jpg

I'm going to try to find them from local perf. shops. I'm sure I can find them around here. I find this method way more organized and better than t-ing off vac. lines.

Well the reason I think its my ignitor or distributor is because I had changed the ignitor before when I had this problem and it fixed it. However now the problem has come back. Basically I am getting the bouncing idle problem as well as this. It started with the bouncing idle and got worse to the point where I am now. I've been in the same situation before. If the distributor solve it I will post it. Basically I have checked all my vaccuum lines they seem ok. Checked Coolant and bleeded the system. Changed plugs, fuel filter, wires are new, cleaned IACV, cleaned throttle body, ran some fuel injector cleaner, its not my ignition switch since that was changed during a recall. Only thing I can think of other then the distributor are the grounds. I have check the tranny, one from the valve cover to chassis, battery to chassis. The one I can't find but I am sure its there, is the coolant housing ground or whatever its called. Where is that one located?

Yeah I probably should have gotten that checked again.. But I am pretty sure that was checked less then 3 months ago because I did a Timing Belt/Water pump, and Clutch w/ lightened flywheel change. Also didn't do anything that I think would increase vaccuum.

Ok, its starting to make more sense now with lighten flywheel.
Here is a trick if you are having it stall out on you. When you are delecerating leave it in gear and bring your rpms down to around 1200-1500 then push in the clutch and let the rpms fall to idle.
I perfer to do it in 3rd gear and just use brakes to slow down. With a wideband 02 i see the different in fuel that it dumps in on decel.
For example... in 3rd gear....rpms at say 3500....push in clutch and watch rpms fall. wideband reads 11-12:1 AFR which is pretty rich for -20 vaccum.
Same thing but leave it in 3rd gear and brake down till rpms are around 1500. wideband reads 14-15:1 AFR which is right around where your idle should be.
Anymore quesions and you can PM me or add me to msn.
But try it out and let me know.

hey thanks Cee_mon I will try it out. But I do recall if I left it in gear and slowed the RPMS down before clutching in that it never stalled on me. However, the last time I drove it my car had stalled just sitting idling in neutral when I was parked. Also I have had the flywheel lightened for quite a long time now, its kind of odd that it would only be happening to me now.