How to test a CLUTCH?
#1
How to test a CLUTCH?
How do you test the CLUTCH in a 5speed car?
I drive stick myself, but since I haven't experienced anything wiered with my transmission (knock on wood!), I don't know what a bad or worn clutch feels like.
Can someone tell me how to test a clutch to see how strong it holds or if its worn and slips?
I have an idea of putting the car in 2nd gear and see how it picks up. But that involves the motor as well...
Thanks.
I drive stick myself, but since I haven't experienced anything wiered with my transmission (knock on wood!), I don't know what a bad or worn clutch feels like.
Can someone tell me how to test a clutch to see how strong it holds or if its worn and slips?
I have an idea of putting the car in 2nd gear and see how it picks up. But that involves the motor as well...
Thanks.
#4
I dotn' know its' harder to tell the slower you car is..honda's are slow and torqueless so it's harder to tell...does it bark 2nd gear..do the rev's build but not speed...I mean you can drive around on a half toasted clucth no problem aroudn town..but if you want somethign to grab more positvely then upgrade to a heavier pressure plate..if you into performance then I'd say upgrade anyway....it's hard to explain the feelign of a slipping clutch
#6
high load, low speed (like 3rd gear at 30 km/h) and just punch it... if the engine revs and no speed, you're fuct. If the engine luggs, then yer good. But even clutches with less than 10% life left will still do that... the clutch has to be real worn before it starts to slip. So it's a risk you take. I'd be more worried about grinds and such if I were you. Check reverse, and all the gears for any high RPM grinds.
#7
Check.
How do I check for the grinds? Is it when you shift-up and it makes the nasty cracking noise while engaging the gear?
My car does that SOMETIMES, when I shift too fast. (Have a short shifter too). I thought thats because of the shifting too fast, that doesn't allow the drives to match the revs....
How do I check for the grinds? Is it when you shift-up and it makes the nasty cracking noise while engaging the gear?
My car does that SOMETIMES, when I shift too fast. (Have a short shifter too). I thought thats because of the shifting too fast, that doesn't allow the drives to match the revs....
#8
Originally posted by Mirai Trunks
a good way to test it would be to see how far u have to let the clutch out before the engine catches. the less u have to let it out, the better.
a good way to test it would be to see how far u have to let the clutch out before the engine catches. the less u have to let it out, the better.
I thought all clutches were different.
It catches super low on my prelude, and on my rex is catches a bit higher.
#9
Ive tried this method...and it has worked once. Start the car....leave it at idel...Put it in 5th gear and then slowly take your foot off the clutch. It your car still idles in 5th gear without any gas, then your clutch is worn out. If it stalls out like it should your clutch has abit more life. Has anyone else tried or heard of this method?
#10
Gatsby, that IS because of your SS... but w/o it that shouldn't happen under NORMAL shifting.
Tre, not true - that only has to do with cable adjustment or in case of hydraulic, it's self adjusting. Just bleed the system every 3-5 years.
Cee, gawd damn, NO CAR should be able to idle with 5th gear engaged. If it's at that point, the clutch is useless.
Tre, not true - that only has to do with cable adjustment or in case of hydraulic, it's self adjusting. Just bleed the system every 3-5 years.
Cee, gawd damn, NO CAR should be able to idle with 5th gear engaged. If it's at that point, the clutch is useless.
#13
Originally posted by bbarbulo
high load, low speed (like 3rd gear at 30 km/h) and just punch it... if the engine revs and no speed, you're fuct. If the engine luggs, then yer good. But even clutches with less than 10% life left will still do that... the clutch has to be real worn before it starts to slip. So it's a risk you take. I'd be more worried about grinds and such if I were you. Check reverse, and all the gears for any high RPM grinds.
high load, low speed (like 3rd gear at 30 km/h) and just punch it... if the engine revs and no speed, you're fuct. If the engine luggs, then yer good. But even clutches with less than 10% life left will still do that... the clutch has to be real worn before it starts to slip. So it's a risk you take. I'd be more worried about grinds and such if I were you. Check reverse, and all the gears for any high RPM grinds.
on Hydro clutches the clutch pedal will be heavy as the clutch wears out... a new clutch is generally feather like.. hydro clutches auto adjust with hydro fuild as opposed to cable clutches..
For grinds, your gonna have to rev high and shift fast as possible.. I say best gear to test is 1st to 2nd in civics. Tegs are known for 3rd gear mostly.
#15
The best way i have found diagnosing clutches at the shop is to apply the parking brake. Select thrid gear and let the clutch out slowly. If the car DOESNT stall u more than likely have a worn clutch disk.
Dont go soley by pedal height, this is usually caused by incorrect clutch adjustment
Dont go soley by pedal height, this is usually caused by incorrect clutch adjustment
#16
Originally posted by 1sloweg
The best way i have found diagnosing clutches at the shop is to apply the parking brake. Select thrid gear and let the clutch out slowly. If the car DOESNT stall u more than likely have a worn clutch disk.
Dont go soley by pedal height, this is usually caused by incorrect clutch adjustment
The best way i have found diagnosing clutches at the shop is to apply the parking brake. Select thrid gear and let the clutch out slowly. If the car DOESNT stall u more than likely have a worn clutch disk.
Dont go soley by pedal height, this is usually caused by incorrect clutch adjustment
#19
Originally posted by bbarbulo
on the 'rex? yeah, follow adjustment procedure to tighten your cable. the catch point should be 1-2 inches off the floor. Tighten the cable until you get the desired result.
on the 'rex? yeah, follow adjustment procedure to tighten your cable. the catch point should be 1-2 inches off the floor. Tighten the cable until you get the desired result.
I guess I am going to research in the Haynes manual about where to access this cable, and how to tighten it, ect...
Not too sure.