how much for b20 vtec?
06-Jan-2006, 09:34 PM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 751
I can add my 2 cents in this thread, hehehe
I'm building an ls/vtec and trust me it isnt cheap. Then again I have upgraded the rods, pistons and cams and complete valve train, also got new headbolts, rod bolts, clutch, t belt blah blah blah
And let me tell you after the machine work and assembly and tunning I bet I'll be in the 6-7g's.
But I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE END RESULT. Once I tune it and get that dyno sheet I'll post it up, but I really can't wait. Never had vTeC y0!!!
Honestly tho bro I'm not telling you what to do I'm just giving you some advice, you sound kinda new to the scene with motors and such. You should just buy a stock b16 or GSR swap first have fun with it (trust me you will) then later on start piece your new motor together. You'll have a better understanding of how each part works and a more clear idea of what you want in the end
I'm building an ls/vtec and trust me it isnt cheap. Then again I have upgraded the rods, pistons and cams and complete valve train, also got new headbolts, rod bolts, clutch, t belt blah blah blah
And let me tell you after the machine work and assembly and tunning I bet I'll be in the 6-7g's.
But I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE END RESULT. Once I tune it and get that dyno sheet I'll post it up, but I really can't wait. Never had vTeC y0!!!
Honestly tho bro I'm not telling you what to do I'm just giving you some advice, you sound kinda new to the scene with motors and such. You should just buy a stock b16 or GSR swap first have fun with it (trust me you will) then later on start piece your new motor together. You'll have a better understanding of how each part works and a more clear idea of what you want in the end
14-Jan-2006, 01:44 AM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 770
Just my input...
the b17 and b20b worked out alot better than thought. so far no problem what so ever and the power is far more greater than my old full b17 gsr motor. Investing in b20b bottom end will do you wonders if you ask me. The dyno numbers that came outa of this motor were pretty impressive seeing how all i got is a motor no exhaust headers or any of that junk.
the b17 and b20b worked out alot better than thought. so far no problem what so ever and the power is far more greater than my old full b17 gsr motor. Investing in b20b bottom end will do you wonders if you ask me. The dyno numbers that came outa of this motor were pretty impressive seeing how all i got is a motor no exhaust headers or any of that junk.
14-Jan-2006, 02:16 PM
#49
you'll need to invest in a lot more than just a type R head to gain 33whp.
The thing with b20vtec's is that they're expensive to build right. It takes a lot more than just slapping an ITR head on a b20 block to get 200whp, especially with the b20's low compression.
You have a b20b right? With the b17a head your compression is only about 9.1:1. Which is really low. Good for boost, but not ideal for n/a. In order to raise the compression with b20's you need forged pistons (which are very expensive). Sure you could mill the head or use a thinner headgasket, but then piston to valve clearance becomes an issue, especially with the small valve reliefs of the b20's stock pistons. This is also why if you want to run big cams you will need forged pistons, i mean sure you could cut deeper valve releifs, but it won't get you the compression required to really makes some stage 2/3 cams make good power.
The thing with b20vtec's is that they're expensive to build right. It takes a lot more than just slapping an ITR head on a b20 block to get 200whp, especially with the b20's low compression.
You have a b20b right? With the b17a head your compression is only about 9.1:1. Which is really low. Good for boost, but not ideal for n/a. In order to raise the compression with b20's you need forged pistons (which are very expensive). Sure you could mill the head or use a thinner headgasket, but then piston to valve clearance becomes an issue, especially with the small valve reliefs of the b20's stock pistons. This is also why if you want to run big cams you will need forged pistons, i mean sure you could cut deeper valve releifs, but it won't get you the compression required to really makes some stage 2/3 cams make good power.
15-Jan-2006, 07:33 AM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: At your moms
Posts: 2,633
type r head is the same casting as the b17. you will not gain anything noticable by switching. i have a fully ported pr3 head with type r valve train and skunk retainers for sale if you are interested its been milled a bunch and should bring you up to 11.5:1 compression. i would invest in some ctr cams too.
15-Jan-2006, 12:18 PM
#51
with the head being milled that much won't piston to valve clearance become and issue with stock pistons? Being that the valve reliefs are very small on b20b pistons, especially if using a higher lift cam.
Or no?
Or no?
17-Jan-2006, 01:53 PM
#55
Originally posted by Mischev
i think the b20's arent that great for boost, cause if the thin cylender walls u might be better off re inforcing the walls before boosting
i think the b20's arent that great for boost, cause if the thin cylender walls u might be better off re inforcing the walls before boosting
B20's are decent for boost they've got a pretty low compression to start with.
23-Jan-2006, 08:49 AM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: At your moms
Posts: 2,633
Originally posted by red90dx
DEFCON ...... about valve reliefs......howabout a gsr head on a b20z block using the stock pfk pistons, how much clearence? or is there a need to enlargen the relief?
DEFCON ...... about valve reliefs......howabout a gsr head on a b20z block using the stock pfk pistons, how much clearence? or is there a need to enlargen the relief?
