how much for b20 vtec?
 

how much wud it cost to put vtec on the engine and do the acctual work properly, i kno it needs and oil squirter, and strengthening of some internals, (i know it can be alot of work)

yes i know there are a lot of threads on this, but poeple go off tangent and no1 says exacly how much it caosts at the end of everything.

i'm gettin a b20Z, but i'm not putting vtec on it right away, i jus want to know how much it will cost so i can start saving ahead or start sourcing parts

Call Spitfire in Brampton, I know Paul did a B20VTEC for a person I know of.

You do not need oil squiters. You could do it.. but it's costly so not everybody does it. You need an oil return line and oil feedline. You also need to tap the old return line in the vtec head. You also need to machine the dowell pin openings in the head to except the larger pins.. or you could get the conversion kit (i believe a few companies make this kit)

There is no real set price on a b20vtec since some people change the pistons (which would be a good idea) and some people just leave the stock b20z or b pistons and different shops charge different prices. Check out our affiliate Defcon Racing, I'm sure they would give you a rough estimate on what you want to do.

If you're going to go VTEC forsure, then you should really get a B18C instead....you'd save a lot of money in the long run.

Ask LIETNER how much the exact was for his B20VTEC build.

built right???

id say anywhere from 4500 and up! talking new stuff here.. not slapping this and that and call it a day!

seals, bearing etc.... the main essentials!
good luck

check b20vtec.com

Just want to point out, that Steve Leitner did not have a B20VTEC, it is a B18C bored to 2.0 liter. To avoid confusion. :)

i have a b20 in my ek right now

Defcon quoted $1600-2000 for a B16 head installed

i bet just a B20 in a Civic would do wonders.....


basically to have a relaible B20 is to be built right, expect to pay to play

b20 in a civic is pretty quick. Kinda lacks up top though, but the torque can't be beat.
For what you would pay for a gsr (teknotik charges $3800 plus another $450 for new axles, linkages and mounts...so $4250 and thats before changing the timing belt, water pump, clutch and whatever broken/malfunctioning sensors and doesn't include install) you could build one nice b20vtec.
chris_si98:
you don't need an oil return line for a ls/b20vtec just a feed line. And for the price of the Golden Eagle lsvtec conversion kit you can't go wrong with it.
$2000 for a b16 head installed on a b20 is crazy. Unless that includes the complete head/dizzy/IM, head studs, a new headgasket and the GE conversion kit. Which still leaves you short of a properly built ls/b20vtec. You will still need ARP rod bolts (which is absolutely necessary if you plan on revving past 7000rpms), a vtec water pump/timing belt, and vtec oil pump.
So $5000 isn't at all unrealistic, hell i am spending close to $2000 alone in machine work for just my b20 bottom end to get it ready for my b20vtec. A good, reliable, powerful engine build isn't cheap AT ALL. And if you cheap out you will regret it.
If you wanna play you gotta pay!

yeah i'm going with the golden eagle kit for sure, i drive an auto, so i dont really know what revving to 7000 is like, i do 140 and i'm revving at 3500 (ls engine & tranny)

i'm not going to race or anything, i just want a something that will last me a long time, cause until my accident comes off my record its me and the EG civic.

how does it pull?

my mistake, i've been reading up on turbo set ups too much lol.

HAHAH comon guys lets not get confusd!

OK, im getting confused, you have an automatic right now?
and you aint gonna race a B20vtec?

are u slapping a 5spd onto it?
whats going... lets hear the plans...

nice!
i've raced a couple of type Rs...i i take them 1-3rd gear for about a car length but then they slowly start to pull. to give u an idea.

no vtec=no top end.

so far i'm pretty happy but can't wait for vtec

i put a b20 w/gsr tranny into my buddy's EG hatch and its pulls real hard down low, but really lacks up top. But its what i would swap into my car if i were to do it again, because it makes for a very fun street car, and leaves room for improvement, be it boost or a vtec head.
The non vtec heads don't flow very good up top at all. The valves are smaller and intake and exhaust ports are much smaller than the vtec heads and they only have single springs on both the intake and exhaust valves. The intake and exhaust manifolds are also of a weaker design/smaller than the vtec counterpart.

$1600-$2000

Includes everything.

-B16 head rebuilt
-Intake manifold
-OEM Honda Head Gasket
-Braided Oil feed lines and Aeroquip fittings
-re-chipped ECU
-oil change
-coolant
-Labour

$2000 would also include OEM new timing belt and water pump and a Street Port.

Other options would include

valve train upgrades
cam shaft upgrades
fly cutting pistons (depending on profile and pistons)
possible fuel system upgrades

My company doesn't just bolt on parts and slap on heads, we ensure that our customers best intrests are at hand. As for quality, I would like to think my company's work speaks for itself.



I agree with you on the ARP rod bolts, but then it would change your torque specs, clearences and possible bearing sizes. Where do you draw the line?? I personally have a B20 V-tec in my car, with stock rod bolts, rods, and pistons and rev it up to 8000 rpm all day long for the past year with no issues. :marchmell

Nice!

but the $40 for rod bolts is cheap insurance. Sure you could run into the problems that you've mentioned, but its a lot better than a rod bolt letting go and ruining your engine.
I know people that have completely stock b20vtecs and rev to 8500 all day long without a problem...YET.
And i've also seen completely stock b20vtecs that only rev to 7500 blow up, well spin a bearing.
I am not one to recommend corner cutting and in the end you get what you pay for.
Using a stock bottom end doesn't allow for future upgrades like a high lift/longer duration cam because clearance is an issue with those stupid pistons with the shallow valve reliefs.

I'm with Zeeman on this.

I know the question is to swap a vtec head but you said you automatic. Personally I would swap to 5-speed or even sell your and buy a 5-speed and then you might not even feel the need to swap the head over. You will also see the most potential when you loose your automatic tranny.

no i have an auto right now..an intregra LS, but i got in an accident and insurance is going way up..so i'm switching to an EG (manual tranny) until the accident comes off my record then i can pursue other vehicle oppertunities.