imported_climax

Hey I current max out at 7500 rpms.. i drive a 92 si coupe. I heard there is a part somewhere which comes out and it ups your max rpms? what is this and how do I take it out?
if its true or what is it?
thanks

kwikb16a2

its there for a reason, so you dont blow your motor. You wont make any more power that high anyways

imported_silver_devil79

just tune your ecu (or chip it)

I would not recomend it like he said--blow you motor---unless you are planning to change your springs,pistons,cams,rings,head,gears.--- your motor will be taking a beating other wise

btw- mine revs to 9000

imported_climax

how^^?? and how much it cost?

imported_silver_devil79

you can get a new ecu already chipped from people here - obd1 - for 150 bucks
just unplug the old one and plug in the new one-

I would not do it with your engine- unless you rebuild your engine

why do you want more rpms?

imported_climax

^^
so I should not put in a new ecu?
how much quicker would my car be if I did that? obd1.. if I got that how much more hp or how much quicker would it be? and I could gain more rpms? Not that I will that often.
l

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

the part (lol) that you remove is the rev-limiter. But its not exactly a part that you remove. There is no point, as mentioned above, of revving your engine that high.
In order to raise your rev limit (within reason) safely all you really need are stiffer valve springs and ti retainers to avoid valve float common to high rpms. But if your cam doesn't make power that high it would be a big waste of money doing so. I paid $950 for my cams, dual valve springs and titanium retainers, but i also replaced my valve seals (about $100) when i pulled the old valve springs out.
silver_devil79:
Mine revs to 9000 too, but when i went to the dyno the graph showed that my cams stop making power past 8500 so i don't ever take really take it that high.
Which valve train/cam(s) are you using?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

also with high (and i mean quite a bit higher than stock) rpms the stock rod bolts can become an issue, but ARP rod bolts are cheap and a good idea if you plan on revving the crap out of your engine.

imported_climax

I do not plan on reving that high... and plus im just on stock everything right now.. would like to produce a bit more power... for cheap... and plus have a bit more of a higer rev limit to shift on..

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

well then there's no point revving past the stock redline. You say you shift at 7500rpm. When i had a d16z6 i used to shift at like 6800, you can feel it stop picking up past there. Here are a few links to dyno graphs that'll show you what i mean.
Check out where the hp line starts going back down. Right where the hp starts to drop off is where you want to shift.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=411246
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=776751
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1184786

EL_CIVIC

cheap and power does not go in the same sentence..

what do you currently have? pick up a header and a highflow cat

imported_climax

I dont usually shift so high...
but the thing is me and my bro are planning on going to the track.. 1v1 race just for fun..
he drives a mx3 v6... gs.. 1993 stock
I drive 1992 si... stock
I was hoping to pick a few more hp.. but not wanting to spend to much..

imported_italstallion

thats weird my car redlines at 4900 i dont know why its so messed up like i can do 120 in like third and only be doing liek 3000 rpm i dotn understand it?

imported_zhu

How do you know your car redlines at 4900? If you're driving a 95dx with the stock d15b7 then your redline is actually 6400.
not too sure why you can get 120 @ 3000 rpm on 3rd though.. must be a different transmission

If you want a few more ac, the probably easiest way is to get an aftermarket Intake, Header and exhaust system
Raising your rev-limiter and reving to above 7200 will not give you any more power. In fact, over-reving might actually make you accelerate slower at the track.

imported_t_dot_SiR

haha... i don't see how your car is slower than a mazda mx3 v6... coz they ain't anything... trust me... u'll beat him! haha... unless he has a mx6 powerplant... the mx3 are crap.... i'm not putting down the mazda's... just that i dun see how mx3 is better than ur civic... the mx3 v6 doesn't produce more than 150hp? if i'm not wrong... correct me if i am...

also, higher revs doesn't mean more power.... that's why there's dyno... u have to see where the power is coming from different rev region... if ur engine is not built, high revs means nothing but blowing up ur engine or losing to your bro in the track race... get any aftermarket air intake pipe, then get a k&n filter... maybe do a 2" or 2.25" piping all the way with a nice stainless header with 2"+ collector... high flow cat... grab a nice straight flow exhaust catback... take out audio system if u have any.... lose a few lbs, try not eating or eating less for a few days... ta-da... kick ur bro's mx3's *** man!!!!!

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

the only "cheap" way to get power is to strip the crap out of your car. I mean take out everything, door panels, back seat, spare tire, speakers, cd player, glove box, etc etc.

imported_silver_devil79

the part (lol) that you remove is the rev-limiter. But its not exactly a part that you remove. There is no point, as mentioned above, of revving your engine that high.


_____Where is the rev limiter- I thought it is all part of the ecu- I was told that the ecu will just cut your fuel off at a certain rpm. - unless you have it reprogrameed. I dont think you want to remove the rev limiter totaly- sounds like an easy way to blow your engine.

1993 Mazda MX-3 10.3 17.60
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 9.2 16.80


1992 Honda Civic Si 8.5 16.40
1999 Honda Civic Si 7.2 15.70
1992 Honda Civic Si Hatchback 8.4 16.50

- do like they say - air intake and exhaust- and you should be fine

why not run the car with no air filter at all-

Nova_Dust

You guys are telling him to do intake, header and whatnot. He wants it cheap, and these things cost money.

Leave your car the way it is, and just go have some fun. HP is the last thing you want to worry about on the track. You have got a bigger issue at hand - i.e. driving skill, handling, braking... etc

imported_italstallion

well i wired a tach in and im pretty sure its accurate becuz when i leave the car idling it idles at 750 rpm but liek in first once i hit 4900 i start bouncing off the redline ,the engine does have 340,000 kms on it tho lol .is it possible that its the ecu?

imported_Torrey

Cheap power on a D series... oximoron.

Cheap power for your car is a swap. Unless you want to turbo it then blow it. Both alternatives cost money. Removing your rev limiter will do **** all, and you'll most likely lose power reving past your powerband.