HELP!! Sanpped a bolt!!!
#1
HELP!! Sanpped a bolt!!!
Hey,
while taking off the front lower control arms, I was unscrewing the lower balljoint nut and I snapped the top of it off. It was rusted to **** to begin with.
Do I need a whole new hub? Or can I just replace the bolt? I have no clue where to go from here. Please help!
Thanks.
while taking off the front lower control arms, I was unscrewing the lower balljoint nut and I snapped the top of it off. It was rusted to **** to begin with.
Do I need a whole new hub? Or can I just replace the bolt? I have no clue where to go from here. Please help!
Thanks.
#2
is there still a bit of the bolt left? I once used a stud remover to take off a bolt head that snapped off..
there are many things that you can try.. drill a hole in the center and hammer lightly a screw extractor into the center of the hole and hopefully it can come lose..
thats just naming a few ways.. try to spray penetrating fluid and let it sit for an hour or so (it takes awhile to actually make a difference) then try.
there are many things that you can try.. drill a hole in the center and hammer lightly a screw extractor into the center of the hole and hopefully it can come lose..
thats just naming a few ways.. try to spray penetrating fluid and let it sit for an hour or so (it takes awhile to actually make a difference) then try.
#4
Well Im not very clear on what your situations is, but it seems like you snapped the lower ball joint stud. You need a new lower ball joint on that side. And since it has to be pressed in, you need to take it to a shop, and have them press in a new ball joint.
#5
Ya I think you know what I'm talking about. I guess its a stud, I though it was a bolt. When i tried to take it off with a ratchet, it just snapped. Now the stud is perfectly flush with the lca. But why do I need a new lower balljoint? Its just the stud that snapped, so can't I replace the stud?
Also, is that stud threaded? Because If i set my car down and go drive will it just pop out or will it stay put?
All this trouble for a freakin auto to manual swap.
Also, is that stud threaded? Because If i set my car down and go drive will it just pop out or will it stay put?
All this trouble for a freakin auto to manual swap.
#7
ok if you snapped the lower balljoint (which is pressed into the hub) and holds the lca to the hub then you can pry the hub apart from the lca and get a new balljoint pressed into the hub
if you were removing the nut that holds the lca to the hub (where the lower balljoint is) and you snapped the stud...then you actually snapped the stud that sits in the balljoint (this is the balljoint) so you will need a new balljoint
if this isnt what you are talking about, then you have to be more clear about the stud (bolt) that you actually snapped so that someone can help you
if you were removing the nut that holds the lca to the hub (where the lower balljoint is) and you snapped the stud...then you actually snapped the stud that sits in the balljoint (this is the balljoint) so you will need a new balljoint
if this isnt what you are talking about, then you have to be more clear about the stud (bolt) that you actually snapped so that someone can help you
#8
I think thats it then. Thats what I snapped.
Now I tried prying the hub away from the lca and it wouldn't give. Am I just not prying hard enough or is there something alse that needs to be unatached? All i have unnatached right now is that snapped balljoint stud.
Also, how hard is it to press a new balljoint into the hub? Could I do it myself?
Now I tried prying the hub away from the lca and it wouldn't give. Am I just not prying hard enough or is there something alse that needs to be unatached? All i have unnatached right now is that snapped balljoint stud.
Also, how hard is it to press a new balljoint into the hub? Could I do it myself?
#10
Since you snapped off the nut, you can now separate the spidle frrm the control arm. Just grab a hammer and hit the spot on the control arm and the bal joint will separate. Trust me you might have to wail on it.
After then remove the upper baljoint, calipers and you can remove the entire spindle off of your car. You do not need as shop to press in the ball joint, you can push it in yourself, again use a hammer and evenly press it in, then lock it in with the provided eclip.
All in all you should have it done in half an hour.
After then remove the upper baljoint, calipers and you can remove the entire spindle off of your car. You do not need as shop to press in the ball joint, you can push it in yourself, again use a hammer and evenly press it in, then lock it in with the provided eclip.
All in all you should have it done in half an hour.
#11
Alright, thanks guys. Now where can I get this BFH tool? Canuck Tire?
I'll try to put it in myself, if it doesn't work then I guess I'll take it to a shop.
Btw, where can I get the balljoint? Should I just go to honda and overpay, or can I get it somewhere else?
Thanks guys
I'll try to put it in myself, if it doesn't work then I guess I'll take it to a shop.
Btw, where can I get the balljoint? Should I just go to honda and overpay, or can I get it somewhere else?
Thanks guys
#13
LMAO!! Oh boy. I feel like such a noob. :P I think I may have one lying around.
Thanks again for everything. I'll probably get the balljoint tommorow, or late today, so I'll ask here if I'm having any problems. So far I'm already unbolting the auto tranny, and it should be out within the next 3 hours. Then in with the manual, hopefully by the end of the day, and pedal assembly and wiring tommorow. I want this done by monday at latest, lol.
Thanks again for everything. I'll probably get the balljoint tommorow, or late today, so I'll ask here if I'm having any problems. So far I'm already unbolting the auto tranny, and it should be out within the next 3 hours. Then in with the manual, hopefully by the end of the day, and pedal assembly and wiring tommorow. I want this done by monday at latest, lol.
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