Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion Engine tech, forced induction, springs, shocks, brakes, tires, etc.

Help Help Plsssss!!!!

Old 17-Nov-2005, 12:38 AM
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Help Help Plsssss!!!!

OKAY I HAVE AN 98 EK HATCH WITH H22A......MY PROBLEM IS THAT MY VTEC KICKS IN ON AND OFF PLUS MY REDLINE IS ONLY AT 6600 TO 6700.....BUT THERE ARE TIMES WHEN EVERYTHING WORKS REDLINES PASS 7000 AND VTEC KICKS IN....FOR SURE WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD VTEC DOESNT KICK IN AND DOESNT REDLINE RITE......BUT WHEN ITS WARM THEN IT GOES ON AND OFF WITH THE VTEC AND REDLINE...I HAVE NO CEL....AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS FINE WITH CAR.....PLS HELP ME....THANX FOR VIEWING!!!!
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Old 17-Nov-2005, 09:55 AM
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What ECU are you running?

P13? P28? ???..

Fuel Cuttoff on an H22 STOCK is around 7400 rpm.
Your saying yours can only rev upto 6700?

You sure your CEL light works?

VTEC will NOT kick in until the car gets to a certain operating temperature. That's normal. As for redline when it's cold, why are you redlining a cold motor anyways? What do you mean doesn't redline RIGHT?? explain how it's not right..
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Old 17-Nov-2005, 12:57 PM
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okay sorry for not enough indfo....im running p13 stock.....okay vtec works only on a certain car temp....that good cause my vtec kicks in when it is warm.....but my cutoff is only at 6700rpm...it does not even pass 7000rpm....and i dont redline the car when its cold....its a fresh swap....but the only thing that is messed up is my cutoff and i cant even reach redline of 7200rpm...thanx
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Old 17-Nov-2005, 02:06 PM
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No, CEL's??

Try a known good ECU.

Are you OBD1 or 2?
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Old 17-Nov-2005, 02:41 PM
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As defcon dave said.

What year motor is in there? OBD1 or 2? OBD1 is 92-96. 2 all after 96..

When you turn your key to ignition does the engine light come on then go off?
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Old 17-Nov-2005, 06:20 PM
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and why would u beat ur car when the engine is Cold????

Not a Good idea in my opinion, let the car get to operating temps!
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Old 17-Nov-2005, 08:42 PM
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okay....first off i dont beat on my car.....its a fresh swap....i only wanted to see if my vtec works..... but i never redline it when its was cold....i only tried to see if the vtec works...but it was never cold...the car was not on a temp where vtec should kick in....now i know that thanx to cabralet!!!!

motor is from 92-96 prelude h22a obd 1 p13.....i use the stock wiring from 98 cx hatch....yes when i start the car engine comes on then off...which tells me that engine lights do work....so no cel

i just tried the car now again with a very very nice temp of the(let it run for about 20 min.)but it still doing the same....cut off is still at 6700rpm.....anyone knows why is it doing this
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Old 18-Nov-2005, 12:08 AM
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maybe you got an auto ecu....i know with the b16s if you use an auto ecu the redline drops from 8200rpm to 7200 or so.
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Old 18-Nov-2005, 12:32 AM
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ILL CHECK ON THAT WITH THE AUTO ECU....BUT IM FOR SURE ITS MANUAL....BUT ANYWAY WOULD AN AUTO ECU BE FUNCTIONAL WITH THIS SWAP.....IT SHOULD THROW A CEL OR EVEN THE ECU SHOULD NOT WORK....ILL CHECK ON IT TOM AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS...THANX
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Old 18-Nov-2005, 12:40 AM
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an auto ecu will work with a manual, but you should get a CEL code 19 if i remember correctly.
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Old 18-Nov-2005, 10:09 AM
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You may not have a stock P13 in there then.

If it's bouncing off 6700, then the fuel cut off is set there.

Open up your ecu top cover and look at the main chip. If it's surface mounted then it's stock, otherwise it would have a housing bracket soldered on with a chip in it (that you can pop off). That'll tell you if an aftermarket(custom) program has been placed on that ecu.

Make sure you disconnect the ecu off the harness first.
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Old 18-Nov-2005, 01:21 PM
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okay i test drive the car when its really warm...i had run it for about 45 min...i check the redline then it got up to 7000rpm then it cut off...i felt pretty good coz it got up to 7000rpm but that not where it suppose to cut off....

i check the ecu if its for manual and it is for manual....i even went back to where i got the engine and compare to a auto ecu...its manual for sure!!!!

im for sure the ecu is stock obd1 p13.....ive look inside there's no sign that the ecu has been chip or even touch.....and why would they programed the ecu to cut off at 6700rpm.....is that the way it is if its from japan or something

now could the problem be the wiring for injectors or my ecu????open and willing to suggestion that will help...pls help
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Old 18-Nov-2005, 02:27 PM
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Well since your saying that the cutoff seems to fluctuate, there's obviously something else wrong.

Who did the swap? Were the correct injector resisters used?

This is very hard to diagnose with actually being the person doing the swap. There's many parts could have been swapped from other things.

I'm not sure how you can check the CEL for an OBD2 car that has been wired for OBD1. In a OBD1 car, you short curcuit the 2 wire clip and it will blink any codes out on the CEL light. There are some codes that won't trigger a CEL like. IE - the ELD code (21) I think it was won't trigger it. There may be others. You may want to double check for errors even though you don't have a CEL.
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