RDub99

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so I left work today, stopped at the grocery store to get some food on the way home and after I got my stuff and went to leave my car wouldn't start. I'm not too mechanically inclined so here goes my diagnostic..

Over I'd say the last month the car wouldn't fire up right away from time to time, I noticed this most of the time when I stop to get gas.. like quick stops and I gotta crank it twice and give it some gas.. another thing that I noticed just this week is as I was cruising in third at a steady speed the car would start to shake like it is about to stall and I noticed this just under 3000 rpm.. say between 2500-3000.. these are the only abnormal things I've noticed with it..

Also when I first got the car I had trouble starting it and took it to a local shop and they put hotter plugs in and replaced the rotor and cap on the distributor..

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

ok when you say it won't start... does it crank/turn over? what's it do? how does it sound?

might be time for a new fuel pump possibly or just a new fuel filter.

time to check fuel pressure and check for spark. also, I'd go to the dealer and buy the correct plugs, hotter plugs will just cause detonation under high load conditions and could damage your engine.

also I hope this local garage used OEM parts from the dealer. being a paid memeber, you get a discount from Parkway Honda, so use it and make sure you get OEM parts.

RDub99

iTrader: (1)

Yes it cranks.. it seems to me like its not getting any fuel.. I couldn't smell any last night.. so you could be right about the fuel pump or filter..

Also, the shop I went to before put hotter plugs in because when I got it the guy had colder plugs than normal in there.. also how can I check if they used oem parts for the rotor? I can take the cap off and check no problem but how do I tell the difference?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

well Honda OEM parts have the Honda written (cast) on the inside and usually have a honda part number... also, I think the cap should be manufactured by TEC? just take close up pics of any writing you find cast into the cap and we can prolly tell you if it's OEM parts.

when you turn your key on the 2nd click (before starting) do you hear a slight hissing noise from the rear of the car? (have a buddy, sibling or parent turn the key while you listen for the noise from beside the rear wheel) it should last 2-3 seconds while your fuel pump primes. if you don't hear that, then take the rear seat out and pull the fuel access cover. unplug the connector and try it again (shut the car off all the way and turn the key back on). and measure the voltage at the connector. If there is voltage, replace the pump. if there is no voltage, check the fuse box for blown fuses, then check the main relay, then finally check the ECU.

Also, if you bought the car used, I'm afraid you'll have to check the car for a possible fuel cutoff switch that may have been installed improperly and has now burned out.

RDub99

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I tried what you said with turning the key.. I don't hear any hissing at all of the fuel pump priming.. does that mean its done or could it still be a fuse?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

it can still be a fuse, or a fuel cutoff switch, your main relay or the pump or the ECU. continue with the testing as I described it (check voltage at the plug)

imported_doggy69247

i just went through the same thing guy wen u are driveing with a constant rev it kinda jumps around then 1 day no starty but u can smell fuel right


its your coil i replaced the coil cap and rotor and alls well now it starts up with .5 of a turn get an external coil thats what i did if u do that u have 2 get an aftermarket cap or drill the old one out


u wil need 2 buy a new rotor cap external coil and this rezistor thing in total it cost me 200$ and its a prety simple install but u need 2 take apart the dizzy and remove some wires and conect other wires its prety simple

pm me if u want picks and stuff if u live close buy i can come over im in newmarket

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

dude he says the fuel pump won't prime

imported_doggy69247

the pump is v quiet tho its like a little humm from under the back seat mabie he just cant hear it it took me 2 turns 2 hear it

imported_kIeRaN

do u notice it has trouble starting on hot days?

RDub99

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the help bbarbulo.. I took my car to Dr. H today and them check it out.. the fuse for the relay was burnt out so either the fuel pump was running too much current and fried it or something got grounded and burnt it.. anyhow I'm going to get a new fuel pump as a precaution (and upgrade ).. anyone have any suggestions for some aftermarket in-tank pumps? I want a quality pump.. I haven't researched it too much yet but I think Edelbrock makes one..

imported_doggy69247

ooo mabie i need a new fuel pump then could u rev the car 2 redline wen this was hapening ???


my car no redline and no vtec mabie my pump is abought 2 go ??

RDub99

iTrader: (1)

wut da hel u talkeen aboot??

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

no prob rdub99... most pumps are made by walbro, so I'd recommend just getting a walbro pump from one of the affiliates. I have a Holley 255 lph HP pump, but you don't need anything like that. actually, the Holley pump is also made by walbro... except it's close to 3 times the price of a walbro.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

no, that's not the case. you have other issues, like your knock sensor wiring. to test a knock sensor, it should produce voltage when there is a knocking sound.... like a microphone kinda.