Hasport engine mounts, JimFab torque mounts, installed
#1
Hasport engine mounts, JimFab torque mounts, installed
First of all, big thanks for Scott Newman. Super cool guy for doing the installation for me. Excellent.
Subject engine mounts are Hasport D/B series EK replacement kit. I am using 88A durometer urethane, the "extreme race" type. Hard as hell.... Also, Jim Fab front torque mounts as well. So all 5 mounts at the same time.
3 big advantages noticed right away:
1) Launch is improved
2) Shifting is improved - that includes reverse
3) Engine does not move, at all. No matter how hard you push the throttle
Obviously, the interior rattles. It is not so much the rattling that bothers me, it is the actual noise level. It is just fvcking insane. I don't know what made me do this but I am on a point of no return. This car is stupidly noisy.
My foot and my *** get a good masage from each trip. But the driving pleasure is so much nicer.
Parts line up nicely, no need to play around or test fit or whatever. But one thing we find out is it would be good idea to install the mounts in such order:
1) front torque mounts (either left or right, but do both one after the other)
2) rear engine mount (as a matter of fact, you can do this before the torque mounts if you like)
3) passenger/driver side
This is for cars with AC and PS. Torque mounts will be easier to reach without AC and PS components.
I will report in after 2 weeks, then a month. People say the ride settles in after a while so I will give first hand experience afterwards.
D16 is powerless, but regardless how little power it has, nothing beats a car that can launch and shift perfectly.
Subject engine mounts are Hasport D/B series EK replacement kit. I am using 88A durometer urethane, the "extreme race" type. Hard as hell.... Also, Jim Fab front torque mounts as well. So all 5 mounts at the same time.
3 big advantages noticed right away:
1) Launch is improved
2) Shifting is improved - that includes reverse
3) Engine does not move, at all. No matter how hard you push the throttle
Obviously, the interior rattles. It is not so much the rattling that bothers me, it is the actual noise level. It is just fvcking insane. I don't know what made me do this but I am on a point of no return. This car is stupidly noisy.
My foot and my *** get a good masage from each trip. But the driving pleasure is so much nicer.
Parts line up nicely, no need to play around or test fit or whatever. But one thing we find out is it would be good idea to install the mounts in such order:
1) front torque mounts (either left or right, but do both one after the other)
2) rear engine mount (as a matter of fact, you can do this before the torque mounts if you like)
3) passenger/driver side
This is for cars with AC and PS. Torque mounts will be easier to reach without AC and PS components.
I will report in after 2 weeks, then a month. People say the ride settles in after a while so I will give first hand experience afterwards.
D16 is powerless, but regardless how little power it has, nothing beats a car that can launch and shift perfectly.
#2
yikes .. so I am assuming if you could go back you wouldn't do the same setup again? I never really thought about that probably when changing the mounts. Is there a less stiffer option that would absorb more of the vibration instead of running it straight into the chassis?
#3
WoW your crazy charles:P, did u consider getting one of those engine shock dampeners instead to stop the engine from moving?
how much was the hasport kit, im pretty interested in getting a set of those but not in the extreme race bushing style.
how much was the hasport kit, im pretty interested in getting a set of those but not in the extreme race bushing style.
#5
If I had the choice again, maybe I will go with the 70A grade instead of 88A. But the thing is, this is my first engine mount change and if I can live with it, then I think I can live with a lot of harsh conditions.
I got the Hasport from a seller on H-T.
As for engine shock dampers, there is no need for it once you have these engine mounts. Plus, I don't think they make the dampers for D16 anyway.
I got the Hasport from a seller on H-T.
As for engine shock dampers, there is no need for it once you have these engine mounts. Plus, I don't think they make the dampers for D16 anyway.
#7
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
If I had the choice again, maybe I will go with the 70A grade instead of 88A. But the thing is, this is my first engine mount change and if I can live with it, then I think I can live with a lot of harsh conditions.
I got the Hasport from a seller on H-T.
As for engine shock dampers, there is no need for it once you have these engine mounts. Plus, I don't think they make the dampers for D16 anyway.
If I had the choice again, maybe I will go with the 70A grade instead of 88A. But the thing is, this is my first engine mount change and if I can live with it, then I think I can live with a lot of harsh conditions.
I got the Hasport from a seller on H-T.
As for engine shock dampers, there is no need for it once you have these engine mounts. Plus, I don't think they make the dampers for D16 anyway.
My point about hte dampeners was that might have been a good solution instead of getting all the mounts as its inexpensive and would help eliminate wheelhop/engine movement.
theres a seller on H-T who has them for D16's for under $100 with mounts.
#9
She is going to experience it this afternoon.
Chris, I am sure the damper works to a certain degree. But this engine + tranny don't move a bit, I am sure it still does, but not visible to human eyes. The more you rev, the more the interior panel shakes :P
Chris, I am sure the damper works to a certain degree. But this engine + tranny don't move a bit, I am sure it still does, but not visible to human eyes. The more you rev, the more the interior panel shakes :P
#13
Call me crazy, but I would take the vibrations to gain
more performance. I'm even thinking of by passing
my balancer shaft to gain that extra hp and torque
but the inside would rumble like I'm running a
bad out of hell 454....LOL
more performance. I'm even thinking of by passing
my balancer shaft to gain that extra hp and torque
but the inside would rumble like I'm running a
bad out of hell 454....LOL
#15
At highway speed, 5th gear, travelling around 120km/h the car isn't that bad. The only noise I could hear is the exhaust and some rattlings from key chain and little things.
At low RPM, from dead start at 1st gear it is a little rough. But once the engine is warmed up, it is acceptable.
I can shift as fast as I want and it is very smooth shifting.
At low RPM, from dead start at 1st gear it is a little rough. But once the engine is warmed up, it is acceptable.
I can shift as fast as I want and it is very smooth shifting.
#16
It has been 2 weeks and I do think the engine mounts are somewhat "settled" in. The rattling seems to faded away a little. Highway driving is good, even at lower speed, it is not bad. Threw a couple hard shift, felt great.
#17
the h22 mounts are good bit stiffer then oem lol but like you said its live able for what you gain... well i guess i gained a lot more in this case but i did the es motor mounts on my old Si and loved it... mind you i didn't have interior panels to rattle
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