h22 in my eg
#21
Thank Nova for the positive comments. I do miss my H22 EG quite a bit at times.
The swap is definitely a great bang for buck project as long as you do the work yourself, or majority of the work yourself. Quick note on the H2B kit. It's an amazing thing to have if you have a car that is already setup with a B Series platform. Why? Because all you have to do is throw in an H22 engine and convert the wiring harness. You don't need to touch the drivetrain at all, which is the difficult part of the H22 swap. Downside is the fact that the hood will not close all the way so you have to do the washer trip and have a hideous gap in the hood line. 2"s approx. Also, it's expensive for the H2B kit, like $850 USD or something.
The H22 EG swap in general is the best feeling swapped civic I have ever driven, and I've driven pretty much all stock swaps except the Ks. The torque is great and gas mileage is much better than a stock Civic ever will be.
Things I would do differently if I ever did the swap again:
- Buy GOOD quality mounts. Vibration at 1000-1500 will shake the whole car.
- Get LSD with the h22 swap.
- Get Stronger drive shafts and a stronger aftermarket clutch.
- Buy a conversion wiring harness to OBD1 to run off a P28 or a P72 (for secondary butterflies). I did the wiring myself and it was a nightmare.
- Convert my PS steering rack to a non-ps first instead of just cutting the lines and looping the flow.
- Buy a performance slim fan. (you can make the old one work as long as you cut the fan blades a bit.) Car will not start overheat unless it's 35+ outside and your idling in traffic.
- Buy a conversion shift linkage (if it exists). Installing the shift linkage is probably the most difficult part of the install because it requires cutting out the shifter housing.
Remember if you go H22, you pretty much will never go back to anything else because you have to cut the passenger side mount and shifter housing. It would be a lot of work to weld metal back to the car to put a B or D series back in. Also, understand that you should replace all major maintenance components before installing the engine, because if you ever have to do work on the car after, many things will require you to remove the engine to work on the area. In theory, this is a fairly cheap swap to do if you just do a simple swap out and in. However, if you want it to last, you will have to invest money in good quality parts, which will definitely drive the cost up much higher.
When I did the swap, H22s were going for $3000 plus. Now they can be had for like $1700 engine/tranny/ecu.
Dropping in the engine required dropping it at a 90 degree angle (tranny side down) below the frame and then tiltting and lifting slowly. Follow the install points as instructed by your mounts, because trust me no other way will work.
Oh and to the person who asked about Power Steering, there are custom mounts that can be bought to include power steering with an H22 swap.
Hope that helps.
The swap is definitely a great bang for buck project as long as you do the work yourself, or majority of the work yourself. Quick note on the H2B kit. It's an amazing thing to have if you have a car that is already setup with a B Series platform. Why? Because all you have to do is throw in an H22 engine and convert the wiring harness. You don't need to touch the drivetrain at all, which is the difficult part of the H22 swap. Downside is the fact that the hood will not close all the way so you have to do the washer trip and have a hideous gap in the hood line. 2"s approx. Also, it's expensive for the H2B kit, like $850 USD or something.
The H22 EG swap in general is the best feeling swapped civic I have ever driven, and I've driven pretty much all stock swaps except the Ks. The torque is great and gas mileage is much better than a stock Civic ever will be.
Things I would do differently if I ever did the swap again:
- Buy GOOD quality mounts. Vibration at 1000-1500 will shake the whole car.
- Get LSD with the h22 swap.
- Get Stronger drive shafts and a stronger aftermarket clutch.
- Buy a conversion wiring harness to OBD1 to run off a P28 or a P72 (for secondary butterflies). I did the wiring myself and it was a nightmare.
- Convert my PS steering rack to a non-ps first instead of just cutting the lines and looping the flow.
- Buy a performance slim fan. (you can make the old one work as long as you cut the fan blades a bit.) Car will not start overheat unless it's 35+ outside and your idling in traffic.
- Buy a conversion shift linkage (if it exists). Installing the shift linkage is probably the most difficult part of the install because it requires cutting out the shifter housing.
Remember if you go H22, you pretty much will never go back to anything else because you have to cut the passenger side mount and shifter housing. It would be a lot of work to weld metal back to the car to put a B or D series back in. Also, understand that you should replace all major maintenance components before installing the engine, because if you ever have to do work on the car after, many things will require you to remove the engine to work on the area. In theory, this is a fairly cheap swap to do if you just do a simple swap out and in. However, if you want it to last, you will have to invest money in good quality parts, which will definitely drive the cost up much higher.
When I did the swap, H22s were going for $3000 plus. Now they can be had for like $1700 engine/tranny/ecu.
Dropping in the engine required dropping it at a 90 degree angle (tranny side down) below the frame and then tiltting and lifting slowly. Follow the install points as instructed by your mounts, because trust me no other way will work.
Oh and to the person who asked about Power Steering, there are custom mounts that can be bought to include power steering with an H22 swap.
Hope that helps.
#24
great writeup...much appreciated..when me and my uncle put in my ls it ran like **** for a month ,i dont wanna go thru that so idont think ill be doin the swap myself, probably just get a shop I know to drop it in ..atleast theres a warranty
for the engine tranny ecu(all necessary parts) and install(timing belt change,waterpump) all together they want $4000
for the engine tranny ecu(all necessary parts) and install(timing belt change,waterpump) all together they want $4000
#25
^^ Make sure you have a new clutch put in.
Find out which ecu they plan on running. What kind of conversion harness are they putting in? What kind of mounts? HCP mounts are crap and worth no more than $250. What kind of driveshafts are they putting in? They may say combo, combo of what? Stock rebuilt? Stock Used? Does it have LSD? CUZ PLEASE get LSD. You will hate yourself if you don't.. My h22 had no traction well into third gear.. LSD will help you A LOT! What shift linkage are they using?
$4000 is not bad, just remember there are a lot of little ways shops cut corners in cost. IE - Crappy aftermarket replacement parts, crappy mounts, shafts, clamps, hoses, god knows the list can go on and on.. You save headache at the time of insttall, but a few months down the line everything starts to fall apart. Also, warranty means nothing when it comes to engine swaps just so you know. If the engine isn't blowing blue smoke of the start, there's your warranty. After that, good luck getting anything fixed properly, regardless of shop. Get a very clear writeup on what the warranty covers, because if it's just the engine condition, you will be **** outta luck when something goes wrong.
Find out which ecu they plan on running. What kind of conversion harness are they putting in? What kind of mounts? HCP mounts are crap and worth no more than $250. What kind of driveshafts are they putting in? They may say combo, combo of what? Stock rebuilt? Stock Used? Does it have LSD? CUZ PLEASE get LSD. You will hate yourself if you don't.. My h22 had no traction well into third gear.. LSD will help you A LOT! What shift linkage are they using?
$4000 is not bad, just remember there are a lot of little ways shops cut corners in cost. IE - Crappy aftermarket replacement parts, crappy mounts, shafts, clamps, hoses, god knows the list can go on and on.. You save headache at the time of insttall, but a few months down the line everything starts to fall apart. Also, warranty means nothing when it comes to engine swaps just so you know. If the engine isn't blowing blue smoke of the start, there's your warranty. After that, good luck getting anything fixed properly, regardless of shop. Get a very clear writeup on what the warranty covers, because if it's just the engine condition, you will be **** outta luck when something goes wrong.
#27
ya for sure a H22 is a EG is great and all(i have one in mine) but if ur runnin anywhere faster then a mid 13 u have a lsd n slicks cause i can run my best street tire n still be spinnin hittin the 1/8 n thats startin like i do at a stop light.........for sure if you'ra goin wit a b-series tranny u have to get a lsd no questions asked.......
#28
Originally posted by Sutton
ya for sure a H22 is a EG is great and all(i have one in mine) but if ur runnin anywhere faster then a mid 13 u have a lsd n slicks cause i can run my best street tire n still be spinnin hittin the 1/8 n thats startin like i do at a stop light.........for sure if you'ra goin wit a b-series tranny u have to get a lsd no questions asked.......
ya for sure a H22 is a EG is great and all(i have one in mine) but if ur runnin anywhere faster then a mid 13 u have a lsd n slicks cause i can run my best street tire n still be spinnin hittin the 1/8 n thats startin like i do at a stop light.........for sure if you'ra goin wit a b-series tranny u have to get a lsd no questions asked.......
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23-Nov-2006 12:20 AM