Guys I need to know about the ECU
Hi Guys,
I am sorry if my question has been asked many times. Please can I please know evrything you guys know about the ECU and how you could make it perform better than it is already programmed to . Your responce to this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
holy shat, that is the most uninformative info for a question... try giving details like what car is it for (92 lx orig engine?) maybe what ECU it is, what mods you have, what end result you would like?
The man that knows the most is zeeman but he does it for you, so you tell him what you you have and everything, give him some coin and he does it for you. |
google is your friend...
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Hey Kingjames ,
many thanks for the update. Sorry to have given you guys half baked requests. Yep a 92 LX it is with the original engine . I have hooked up a AEM CAI & a Reactive performance muffler this is it. I did try to google it but since i did not know heads or tail of the story just wanted a crash course on this subject from the guys in here. I simply want the car to move fast . I mean it is fast for a 92 a bit more faster I should say. Thanks again Guys. Sharaj |
ecu tuning will only yeild minimal gains on your application, even from dyno tuning you'll only be able to pick up a few whp and this is with an intake, header and free flowing exhaust.
Getting your ecu chipped and running a mugen/spoon/skunk2 chip isn't the greatest IMO, but some people swear they feel a difference with these generic chips. |
Thank you Andrew.
Advise well taken. Sharaj. |
Bottom line, anything you do to the ecu will make no noticable difference to your 92 LX. the D15B7 engine is not much first of all and in a sedan, it's even more depressing.
I had 92 LX Auto for a winter beater.. I feel your pain. |
Son....F the ECU, you would feel more gains lighting your flywheel then doing stuff to your ECU on that engine. Or son, just save up for the swap if your keeping that ride. It will be well worth the money.
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In order to modify the ecu you'll need some tools to assist you as well as a way to interface with the computer (very easy I find on hondas). Find yourself a wideband o2 sensor to monitor the fuel, and a pyrometer (EGT sensor as it's sometimes called) to monitor the ignition timing. You may also benefit from a knock sensor tool, but you can also make one and just listen for knock/ping as well. I usually datalog this to my laptop and overlay it ontop of my tuning software so i can tune offline after.
The basic goal on an N/A car is to advance the timing down low as much as you safely can, and then add additional fuel up top as the car naturally leans out. As you can probably tell, this isn't guesswork hence the requirement for the sensors. You can attempt to do this on the street but it's quite difficult. You might have better luck renting time on a dyno or even cheaping out by jacking the drive wheels off the ground and driving it stationary (keep in mind that there will be no engine load so the tuning will have to be adjusted slightly afterwards to compensate for road resistance.) Any q's just ask me! :) Adam |
tuning a car on jack stands?!?!?!....that sounds like a good/safe idea.....NOT. Plus like you said, there will not be any load on the engine so you will need to change the tune once you start driving on the street.
For most people its just cheaper/easier/safer to pay someone to tune their car, but like everyone has already said, its pretty much pointless for his application. |
Originally posted by zeeman tuning a car on jack stands?!?!?!....that sounds like a good/safe idea.....NOT. |
or you could just do a shake down run and make the apropriate adjustments before the next run. But not everyone is born with common sense.
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