imported_joefo53

ok im new to hondas/acuras i just bought a 91 teg, now i guess they dont take a beatin like my other vehicles can. so last night the tranny blew up when i was driving. anyways i bought the car to have another lil project, im gunna get a gsr and do a complete build up. what i wanna know is if anyone has some good input for the internals. i plan to run N/A. so high compression is not a prob. so any ideas will be great.

chris_si98

well first of all what are your goal plans and budget? also what do you want out of it? weekend track? daily with pep? etc.

imported_joefo53

my goals are: FUN ..................... money i dont care about that
i just want to go out at night and have fun, i dont really want a 1/4 mile car cuz rippin around a corner at 150 is alot more fun........... i pretty much wanna get as much hp with just all motor

imported_joefo53

i also plan on doin everythin from the crank up

imported_joefo53

i wanna know if anyone can tell me which pistons are better then others for this set up, what crank cams rods rings valves springs and so on

gooseshit

i have a built ls/vtec with okm on it if ur interested, but its not cheap...pm me ur # if interested(built ls block, itr head, itr tranny... )

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

well the gsr crank is good...with a 87.20mm stroke its a good compromise between a broad torque curve and high rpms stability. The b18a/b crank and rods in a gsr will give you a little more torque, and thats more what your after for a fun street car. But would cost way more than just balancing the gsr crank/rods and getting some b16 or PCT (CTR...civic type R) pistons (pct = over 12:1 and b16 about 11.5:1). This would be a pretty stout bottom end and still have OEM quality and not too expensive.
But if you're made of cash, you could get some Eagle/Crower rods and Endyn/JE/Wiseco/SRP/Arias pistons of whichever CR you desire.
For cams/valve train Rocket/BuddyClub/Blox/Skunk2/Crower/Omnipower are all good. Depends what your budget is.
Don't forget about ARP hardware and a good clutch/flywheel or using a new oil pump/water pump/timing belt.

imported_joefo53

i want all new aftermarket high performance stuff all light and strong....... im planin the build up to start this weekend as i will prolly get the motor on sat so each week i wanna put ruffly $800 to a $1000 in it. one week the crank bearings next rods and pistons, ya know what i mean

ps it it worth it to port and polish the head on the gsr head?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

its worth every penny, especially on a high compression cammed gsr. Get some Crower rods and 81.5mm endyn pistons, go OEM with the main/rod bearings.
Skunk2 Pro1/2's are serious cams. Same with the Rocket M24/M25, rocket makes a very nice valve train as well.
A good (and i mean good) valve job makes/brakes the potential of DOHC VTEC engines. So get your machine work done by someone that knows Honda DOHC VTEC engines (gord bush performance is who i recommend).
Also get a good custom header (ANR, SMSP, Hytech, DTR, RMF) w/2.5" collector and 2.5" exhaust.
You looking to swing that thing to 9,000+rpms?
A b18c is a good platform to start with. It has a nice crank girdle across 2-3-4 mains and oil squirters. It also has a decent oil pump and water pump (stay with honda parts) and some of them come with oil coolers where the oil filter attaches.

imported_t_dot_SiR

just want to know which area you will be ripping that car around, because i want to stay out of it at night for some safety concerns hahaha =)

wow zeeman, those are good read up, because i've been crazy reading H-T these few days about gsr build up... and that thing just clears up 50% of my concerns..... i also thinking of a stroker kit going to 2.0L from 1.8L...... what kind of inputs you have on that?... because i've been reading on crower site, toda site, and arias.. i was thinking of the arias or the cp pistons... for 12.5:1 cr, its best to run octane 94, right? but when i'm not around a sun, do you think i can just pump some 91/92? if i raise that much compression or raise the displacement... i want to for sure feeding it the best haha... in the future 250whp n/a with good tuning is ideal right? for a daily, possible?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

250whp is a lot for N/A and will take a lot of money and probably not be such a good daily driver.
I would definately run 94 with 12.5:1 on a 2L. Or at least make sure that its tuned good to run 91. I run 91 on my 11.5:1 CR b16.
What stroker kit do you plan on running?
I would sleeve to 84mm if you really wanted a 2L b/c the gsr crank is a good one. It'll make lots of torque (especially as a 2L) and will be stable at 9000.

imported_joefo53

ok well i did all my lookin around and found out its gunna cost about 7000 for a good built up the i like

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

at least man, its easy to spend $5,000 just on the head, or just on the block.

8.5K

first off, 250whp is a dream unless you have 10-15K to spend. second, it will not be fond of daily driving in the 12.5-13.0/1 c.r. to be brutally honest, people that run in the 13.0/1 c.r. area are afraid that there set-up is not up to par and attempt to make it up with compression. i.e. using a less than stellar header on your motor, peaky cams, sh1tty IM etc. a well designed 2L VTEC motor will make 230-240-whp on less than 12.0/1 c.r. actually, it can be done on 11.0/1 if you can afford lightweight components. i say keep studying, find out what works and then decide on whether or not you want to drop that paper. i've seen this many times. people read a bit, find a couple monster dyno charts and think that they know everything. then, they purchase a cam that makes power after 7K, yet drive there cars daily. peak numbers mean squat. its all about usable power. i've seen lsv's run B20v like times because it (lsv) was a superior setup. if you need 12.5/1 c.r. to make power and you drive daily, your set up sucks, str8 up. perfect example of this is the infamous S2 IM for 18C1 heads. yes everybody buys them...yes it will make more peak whp than an oem dual stage...and yes, the oem dual stage will make 10wtq more than the S2 IM for a good 3000rpm in the midrange. so, why do people change the 18C1 IM? because they just don't know the truth. anyway, if you want a 210whp 18C1 with 0KMS, equipped with the absolute best parts available, pm me. if not, g/l with your project.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

This is the absolute truth....listen to 8.5K, he's one of the few people on here that actually know what they're talking about. He speaks from first hand experience. My car wouldn't be what it is without the help of 8.5K.
Thanks again man.
Good luck with your current build C.

imported_t_dot_SiR

thanks for the advice and yeah after i posted that, i continued to research as that's what i've done for the past few days... i knew that kind of comrpession wouldn't be too realistic for a daily... maybe somewhere 11.x:1 would be better off... and i also know that 250whp is all about money (because money = power). so i've already came up with those stuff... and i did not decide what to do base upon charts in fact i don't look at them haha... i actually read reviews of people on H-T and ask them for advice too. but i really appreciate yours and zeeman's input because more input means less mistakes. and i still don't have an exact setup in mind because i know i'm still too new to this that's why i'm posting some ideas and looking for some feedbacks =) i would probably be reaseaching and looking for inputs for like the next month or so until for sure i get the best information. i don't like trial and error and dumping money into the sea... and i also know about the S2 IM, so i never planned to swap the IM. atleast for sure its not something on top of my list. because i know there's much other stuff on the engine that i should work on since the GSR is already a good motor to begin with =)

anyways, if you have time, can you pm me a daily-driven setup where i should be in about 180-200whp... that still leaves some room for future upgrades =)

LEITNER

i have some insight but no time right now to post, look later today for a reply.