Failed e-test...what do the readings mean?
 

I'm hoping you guys can help me out with understanding my etest readings:

Here's some background info on the car.

'94 jdm b16a
P30 ecu
mobil 1 synth(every 5k)
new plugs (ngk iridiums)
dc jdm 4-1 header
new hi-flow cat (replaced 1 month ago)
new o2 (replaced 1 month ago)

The test was run with their machines set to test a 93' si hatch with 1.6 SOHC. I passed with my above car set up 2 years ago under this etest setup (except I had an older cat and o2).

ASM 2525
Readings:

HC ppm (limit) 86 (reading) 178 FAIL
CO% (limit) 0.48 (reading) 0.72 FAIL
NO ppm (limit) 663 (reading) 2573 FAIL
RPM 2510
Dilution 15.3

Curb Idle

HC ppm (limit) 200 (reading) 194 PASS
CO% (limit) 1.00 (reading) 0.1 PASS

What do all these numbers mean? I'm still getting 550kms to a full tank. I run 91 or 94 octane.

Your insight would be greatly appreciated.

My jdm b16 failed etest too, but i only failed NO and my number was something like 3200. JDM b16's don't seem to like to pass...lol.

for you guys.. hmm.. mine passed np.. come to think of it...... i think my ecu had something to do with it .. hmmm..

High HC's probably mean some things , vacuum leaks , cat , ecu , ignition system (spark plugs , wires , ect) , 02 sensor. Since you changed plugs and cat and o2 , see if you're ECU is turned properly to give you the right air fuel mixture.

CO's usually means your car is running rich , check ur air filter and might be probably cuz you're air/fuel ratio is probably messed up.

NoX usually means EGR , cat and timing advanced too much. Check the PCV also.

If you fail all 3 , i'd probably look into your cat that you replaced , since its performance hi flow it might not work properly unless its warmed up very well. Or maybe look into your ECU , like what v8hunter03 said above , his ecu might've had something to do with it.

you get a cel?

your car runs like crap... that's what it's saying. you can prolly pick up 10 hp or more doing some maintenance and tuning.

you're running rich and you're running hot... prolly timing (spark) and fueling is off. if you have a chip, take it out.

bbarbulo,

I remember talking to you awhile ago, and you mentioned you're from Windsor (or at least in the vicinity).

I just moved here and I do not know any reputable mechanics that I'd feel comfortable leaving the car with. Bringing the car back to Toronto isn't much of an option as I'm here for school and work 7 days a week.

Can you recommend anyone in particular that knows their way around hondas with swapped motors?

Thanks,

Ian

I only know of one person who knows hybrids well, but he closed down his shop. There is one shop that I heard about but I've never been to. I can ask my friends about where it is and whatnot...

high hc`s could be caused by bad wires or plugs nox`s is caused by the engine running to hot

hc`s totally unburt gas
co`s partally burt gas
nox`s caused by the engine running to hot (ie lean a/f mixture)

if you need advise fixing the problem im a drive clean inspector

Update.

Like I suspected, there isn't anything wrong with my car. I took my car to another testing center and it passed with flying colours. Word of advice for people living in Windsor, avoid the Canadian Tire garage at the University Mall (Huron Church).

you kidding me?


***DO NOT EVER GO TO CANADIAN TIRE FOR ANYTHING***


i mean that by "the shopp" but they do have good tire cleaner

bbarbulo is right your car needs some tuning to get it to run clean again. Maybe try getting you injection system cleaned out. I dont mean buying a can of injector cleaner and running it in a tank of gas, your mechanic has a special machine that pumps the stuff right into the fuel rail. It has strong solvents in it that will damage some of you fuel system components, thats why you need to introduce it right at the injectors. Ive found this sometimes helps.

I believe it is your Catalytic converter that's not functioning properly. Most of the time when u fail all 3 of the gases that's why u failed all 3 of them. Hope it helps. See if the Cat is plugged. Save u $$$ for diagnostic if that's the case.

also i suggest you stick to normal copper spark plugs those iridiums are a true waste of money.. run the plugs that were designed for yoru motor... look at b16civic on the board he has a BUILT motor hos come he runs NGK copper plugs (mind you they are 2 heat ranges colder) his motor is PROOVEN TO PUT 220whp down!
why? copper is the BEST conductor only problem is you have to replace it more often OH NOES not 2$ spark plugs!

it means u go get it blind tested lol

LOL guys....did you not read my update?

There was nothing wrong with my car to begin with. It passed the emissions test with flying colours.

It was Crappy Tire that screwed up the initial diagnostic.

The moral of the story is that don't necessarily take any e-test results at face value...

dood, same sh1t happened to me.

i had a 87 s10, fully redone. cnotched frame, bagged to the floor, body drop, cut thru sub box, 350 chevy small block, 3" exhaust, headers, 650cfm 4barrel holley carb....

took it to crappy tired...FAILED...my #'s were rediculous like yours..my HC were way way way off the charts.

took it to a small little shop..passed..barely..but it passed...

crappy tire has been charged with fraud, for bunking up e tests to sell people parts..do some research, it was in the news.