Engine flush and fuel system treatment
20-Nov-2003, 10:45 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2003
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Engine flush and fuel system treatment
My cars now got 200kms and i was wondering if i should do an engine flush and fuel system treatment, i just bought the car and was wondering if its really neccesary and which should i do, the stuff i buy in the bottle at ct or get it done at a shop? The car has gotten its oil changes every 5000kms so there was no neglect. I work at walmart now and i can get the oil treament by slick 50 and the fuel treatment as well for next to nothing. Are there any downsides to doing these? Thanks in advance B because i know you'll be the first to answer
21-Nov-2003, 02:22 AM
#7
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Location: Toronto
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since you work there, what I would do would be to...
1. drain the old.....refill with new. (use old filter for now) Start car, and let it run for 5 minutes or so.....then turn it off, and let it sit for 10 minutes or so
2. drian again......then refill...(keep old filter on still). Start and then let it sit just like #1
3 drian one more time....put new filter on....then refill. Start engine and let it run for a minute....then turn it off. Wait about 5 minutes, then check the level of the oil. Add if needed.
This is the only way I know of to really get the engine cleaned of all the crap that is in there. You will NEVER get all of it out, but at least you will get some, if not most of it out.
If they allow you to use more than one filter, then replace the filter after you drain it the first time, and a second time after you drain it for a second time.
Overkill? Maybe.....but what do you care, you probably don't have to worry about paying for the 7-8 liters of oil you just wasted.
When I do mine at a shop, I usually bring an extra jug of cheap 5w30, and a new filter.
I ask the guy to drain, and then refill it with the cheap stuff, but to leave on the old filter for now. Then drain it after starting and then letting the car sit for a few minutes. Then he drains it a second time, removes the filter, and then puts the new one on with new oil.
The way you would do it, is one more drain than I would do. You would have probably one of the cleanest engine internals around.
Yep, definately excessive if you ask me.
1. drain the old.....refill with new. (use old filter for now) Start car, and let it run for 5 minutes or so.....then turn it off, and let it sit for 10 minutes or so
2. drian again......then refill...(keep old filter on still). Start and then let it sit just like #1
3 drian one more time....put new filter on....then refill. Start engine and let it run for a minute....then turn it off. Wait about 5 minutes, then check the level of the oil. Add if needed.
This is the only way I know of to really get the engine cleaned of all the crap that is in there. You will NEVER get all of it out, but at least you will get some, if not most of it out.
If they allow you to use more than one filter, then replace the filter after you drain it the first time, and a second time after you drain it for a second time.
Overkill? Maybe.....but what do you care, you probably don't have to worry about paying for the 7-8 liters of oil you just wasted.
When I do mine at a shop, I usually bring an extra jug of cheap 5w30, and a new filter.
I ask the guy to drain, and then refill it with the cheap stuff, but to leave on the old filter for now. Then drain it after starting and then letting the car sit for a few minutes. Then he drains it a second time, removes the filter, and then puts the new one on with new oil.
The way you would do it, is one more drain than I would do. You would have probably one of the cleanest engine internals around.
Yep, definately excessive if you ask me.
21-Nov-2003, 09:00 AM
#9
Well, you can do what PULOVR said, except for use a mixture of 3 quarts 5W30 and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil - MMO is a very light detergent that will help get rid of sludge buildup and carbon deposits. And running it for 5 minutes won't do didly squat - 200,000 kms of driving can't be undone in 5 minutes 
Drive it for about 500-700 kms, then dump out the MMO and oil mixture. At this point, if you are confident the car is well maintained, you can opt to try to switch to synthetic oil. I'm not saying it's guaranteed to work, but Honda motors generally if taken care of, are in such good shape that you can put synth oil in them and not worry about burning it.
In the 500-700 range, you can use more MMO and put it in the spark plug holes (use 1 oz.)... let it sit overnight, and in the morning crank the car to get any excess MMO out of the cylinder, then put the spark plugs back in and start the car - it will smoke like a *****. Let it run for a while... this should have loosened and removed most nasty carbon deposits from the car being not revved out, but lugged around town. There are other cleaners you could uses - like GM top engine cleaner which you suck in with a vaccum tube while the car is running .... then there are ppl who pour (and I don't recommend this for an amateur) a little stream of distilled water in the t-body of a running car to essentially steam clean their cylinders.... and once in a while, DO use some gas treatment, but use it as per directions, doubling up on treatment thinking it'll do more good is a bad idea. Good luck!
Drive it for about 500-700 kms, then dump out the MMO and oil mixture. At this point, if you are confident the car is well maintained, you can opt to try to switch to synthetic oil. I'm not saying it's guaranteed to work, but Honda motors generally if taken care of, are in such good shape that you can put synth oil in them and not worry about burning it. In the 500-700 range, you can use more MMO and put it in the spark plug holes (use 1 oz.)... let it sit overnight, and in the morning crank the car to get any excess MMO out of the cylinder, then put the spark plugs back in and start the car - it will smoke like a *****. Let it run for a while... this should have loosened and removed most nasty carbon deposits from the car being not revved out, but lugged around town. There are other cleaners you could uses - like GM top engine cleaner which you suck in with a vaccum tube while the car is running .... then there are ppl who pour (and I don't recommend this for an amateur) a little stream of distilled water in the t-body of a running car to essentially steam clean their cylinders.... and once in a while, DO use some gas treatment, but use it as per directions, doubling up on treatment thinking it'll do more good is a bad idea. Good luck!
21-Nov-2003, 09:42 AM
#11
I found it in Auto Zone in the States, but I've seen it at a smaller parts store called Canadian Auto Parts here in Windsor.... you could try NAPA, Parts Source or other local parts stores... I have not seen it at CT or Walmart yet.
22-Nov-2003, 06:57 PM
#14
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,745
Also, my cars only ticks (valves) when i drive when its cold. Someone told me that the oil is too thick to get up to the valves or theres too much "gunk" in there, my question is, how do i solve this problem?Is it bad for the motor when its ticking? My valves are all adjusted, and will any "additives" relieve the problem?Another told me its lack of oil pressure, and others say its common. Im really confused and wanna get rid of this problem, you all probably think im a pain in the ***, but oh well
24-Nov-2003, 08:41 AM
#17
Try what I said - the detergent in MMO when mixed with oil for enough time will help release the varnish and sludge that commonly causes your condition... I know about it cuz Saturns are notorious for burning oil due to stuck rings, and well, I used it on my Saturn. If that is not good enough, you can try a more aggressive approach, GM Top Engine Cleaner - or this other stuff known as "sea foam green"... I've never seen this sea foam green stuff in Canada, only heard about it but it's supposed to be the same as GM top engine cleaner (which you can buy at a GM dealer).
but it's supposed to be the same as GM top engine cleaner (which you can buy at a GM dealer).
24-Nov-2003, 11:20 AM
#19
Basically it comes in a can, you take off a vacuum line in your manifold, and you stick it into the can, and the engine vaccuum sucks up the GM cleaner up through the line and into the manifold, you keep the revs up as it says on the can instructions... you do this till the stuff is gone, then I think you let it sit awhile (as per directions) and the run it again. Just be sure the cleaner is safe for aluminium heads and blocks (which Saturns have, so it should be safe). There is also another product... MotoVac which is a professional system, so you'd have to search for a MotoVac dealer. I remember long long long ago SCC did it on their project Miata (1st gen) cuz it was all carbon fouled.
