Engine Code Help
#1
Engine Code Help
when installing a distributer i had to rewire my cam sensor on my zc, but the harness colours were messed up so i tried my best.
i now have a
code 9-CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
code 15-Ignition Output Signal missing or defective ignition output signal
now my air fuel gage is going crazy now too.
anyone wanna feild this one?
thanks
i now have a
code 9-CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
code 15-Ignition Output Signal missing or defective ignition output signal
now my air fuel gage is going crazy now too.
anyone wanna feild this one?
thanks
#2
Code 9 (9 flashes) No. 1 cylinder position (1.6L)
Code 15 (15 flashes) Ignition output signal
these are the codes I found... and they make more sense.
I'm doing some more searching for wiring diagrams...
Code 15 (15 flashes) Ignition output signal
these are the codes I found... and they make more sense.
I'm doing some more searching for wiring diagrams...
#3
I have a 1992 CRX Si Helm manual, if you still need the wiring diagram I
will copy it for you-let me know-PPDS@AOL.COM.
I just got done with my ZC Swap. I don't know if you are aware of this
but you can remove the pins from the connectors very easily- if you look
at the connector pins you can see a small plastic tab by each pin-just
get a small nail and push it down next to the tab and the pin comes
right out- I removed the plastic connector from the ZC distributor and
replaced it with the Si connector-factory fit & finish. The only two
wires I left out were the blue/yellow & blue/green which connected to
the exhaust cam sensor(cylinder senor) which I spliced together. All my
other connectors plugged right in. My Si has a fast idle sensor on the
manifold which the ZC did not. It is just eliminated-leave this
connector off. The only thing to be careful about is on the distributor
is two white wires-look carefully one is marked with red - make sure it
is matched with the wiring harness wire with red. I don't know if this
helps if you need the factory wiring diagram from my book let me know
and I'll fax it to you.
from http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/nosajuf/nosajuf6.htm
will copy it for you-let me know-PPDS@AOL.COM.
I just got done with my ZC Swap. I don't know if you are aware of this
but you can remove the pins from the connectors very easily- if you look
at the connector pins you can see a small plastic tab by each pin-just
get a small nail and push it down next to the tab and the pin comes
right out- I removed the plastic connector from the ZC distributor and
replaced it with the Si connector-factory fit & finish. The only two
wires I left out were the blue/yellow & blue/green which connected to
the exhaust cam sensor(cylinder senor) which I spliced together. All my
other connectors plugged right in. My Si has a fast idle sensor on the
manifold which the ZC did not. It is just eliminated-leave this
connector off. The only thing to be careful about is on the distributor
is two white wires-look carefully one is marked with red - make sure it
is matched with the wiring harness wire with red. I don't know if this
helps if you need the factory wiring diagram from my book let me know
and I'll fax it to you.
from http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/nosajuf/nosajuf6.htm
#5
http://www.88-crx.com/ZC_Page/ZC%20-%20DX%20Swap.htm
another good one... has complete ECU pinout.
Dave, often I hear of these cars having a problem with the stock wiring. I recommend getting some fresh brand new shielded wire, and running a new line right from the sensor to the ECU. In most cases I hear this with B16A swaps in EFs, and ppl say it runs like **** and they get codes, and they change the wires out for new ones, and BOOM, it's like a new car!!
Lemme know how I can help!
another good one... has complete ECU pinout.
Dave, often I hear of these cars having a problem with the stock wiring. I recommend getting some fresh brand new shielded wire, and running a new line right from the sensor to the ECU. In most cases I hear this with B16A swaps in EFs, and ppl say it runs like **** and they get codes, and they change the wires out for new ones, and BOOM, it's like a new car!!
Lemme know how I can help!
#8
can i rebuil my teg dizzy with the si parts?
i got the car running again like it was before, but i want to fix the damn thing, so im going to work on it tomorrow
hey bruno would it be the ignitor that is making my tach flutter at high revs?
i got the car running again like it was before, but i want to fix the damn thing, so im going to work on it tomorrow
hey bruno would it be the ignitor that is making my tach flutter at high revs?
#9
is the fluttering accompanied by a loss in power?
the tach signal does come from the dizzy, so it's very concievable that it is the case!
BTW, dizzy's are easy to take apart and rebuild - and chilton has a testing procedure for the individual components. (it's pretty complex testing procedure... I had to do it on my Samurai when it crapped out)
The guts of the dizzy's should interchange, but you can check part numbers and diagrams at San Leonard Honda The parts should also be available at a Honda/Acura dealer for rebuilding the dizzy.
the tach signal does come from the dizzy, so it's very concievable that it is the case!
BTW, dizzy's are easy to take apart and rebuild - and chilton has a testing procedure for the individual components. (it's pretty complex testing procedure... I had to do it on my Samurai when it crapped out)
The guts of the dizzy's should interchange, but you can check part numbers and diagrams at San Leonard Honda The parts should also be available at a Honda/Acura dealer for rebuilding the dizzy.
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