EM Racing bars
19-Nov-2003, 12:36 PM
#1
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EM Racing bars
EM Racing
I suppose not many people are familiar with this set up (5 bars trianglation set up) and sounds like it can out perform the oridinary 3 bar (c-pillar, strut, trunk) configuration.
What do you guys think?
I suppose not many people are familiar with this set up (5 bars trianglation set up) and sounds like it can out perform the oridinary 3 bar (c-pillar, strut, trunk) configuration.
What do you guys think?
19-Nov-2003, 02:22 PM
#4
EM bars look good, but if you are going THAT far, you may as well invest in a weld-in cage. A roll bar is just a bar from behind the front seats back, a roll cage is attached at a minimum of 6 points; a hoop over the front seats, bars going back to the rear strut towers, and bars going to the firewall (or the floor in front of the dash).
19-Nov-2003, 07:57 PM
#8
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What I want to know is (sorta stupid to ask) will a roll cage out perform EM bars? I know it is thick tubing and all, but roll cage is on the front mainly, where the EM bar concentrates on the back. If you look on the EM Racing site, you will see this teg with roll cage + EM bar, sick set up....
20-Nov-2003, 05:19 AM
#9
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A roll cage will outperform all bolt-ons. A race legit cage should run you about $4000. A strut bar braces the movement of the suspension components - a rollcage braces that as well as the entire frame and protects you in your tin can civic in the event of high speed rollovers and collisions.
You can weld a cage yourself, but you better trust your welds and hope it will look as good as the guys who gets paid to do it.
You can weld a cage yourself, but you better trust your welds and hope it will look as good as the guys who gets paid to do it.
20-Nov-2003, 08:23 AM
#10
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
If you look on the EM Racing site, you will see this teg with roll cage + EM bar, sick set up....
If you look on the EM Racing site, you will see this teg with roll cage + EM bar, sick set up....
there is absolutely no purpose to that... the roll cage does ALL that and then some. It's just redundant.
20-Nov-2003, 09:08 AM
#11
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Originally posted by BIGA10k
A roll cage will outperform all bolt-ons. A race legit cage should run you about $4000.
A roll cage will outperform all bolt-ons. A race legit cage should run you about $4000.
I'm going to get a roll bar (4 point rool cage with some extra bracing) for a grand.... weld in .. I could get a full bolt in NASA and SCCA approved roll cage for around a grand US.....
a weld in cage can be had for about 2 grand from some places....
Expect the price to be about $650+ b/c of the shipping - but that's just a loose guess based on optauto's price.
23-Nov-2003, 09:02 PM
#15
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It would be a 10- to 12-point roll cage for that price. It would be welded (not bolted-on) and the guy who builds it would have the proper insurance in case of a negligence lawsuit for the cage failing and you breaking your back. Anyone can build a 1.75" steel tube cage with .12" thickness, but if a weld breaks who is going to support your *** while your in a wheelchair (having your cage builder go out of business doesn't pay your bills).
A roll cage is design to protect you. The last thing you want is the roof caving in while your bolted in a racing seat with a 4 or 5-point harness (that's one reason why those seatbelts are illegal in street cars).
I will only trust the guy who is capable of getting insurance for his product. It is no different than going bargain shopping for your laser eye surgery. Are your eyes or spine worth saving a few thousand dollars over? NEVER CHEAP OUT ON LIFE SAFETY PRODUCTS!
A roll cage is design to protect you. The last thing you want is the roof caving in while your bolted in a racing seat with a 4 or 5-point harness (that's one reason why those seatbelts are illegal in street cars).
I will only trust the guy who is capable of getting insurance for his product. It is no different than going bargain shopping for your laser eye surgery. Are your eyes or spine worth saving a few thousand dollars over? NEVER CHEAP OUT ON LIFE SAFETY PRODUCTS!
24-Nov-2003, 08:46 AM
#16
A stock, un-reenforced Honda roof will hold up to 4x the weight of the car... so you can stack 4 other Hondas on top of it, and the roof will maintain shape. I think for most of our needs, a cage is excessive considering most of us don't drive over 120 km/h an a regular basis. Any SCCA approved cage, or IHRA approved cage will do the job just fine - it's like a building code, designed to protect the driver from stupidity... buying a pre-fabbed cage and welding it in... plus you can modify it if you want to add bracing, that would be the most economical way to protect your ***.
24-Nov-2003, 10:57 AM
#17
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Safty is important, of course. I wouldn't want to go with show stuff and jeopardise my own life.
So B, is that Autopower roll cage approved by most associations? It says it is for autox.
Thanks
So B, is that Autopower roll cage approved by most associations? It says it is for autox.
Thanks
24-Nov-2003, 11:15 AM
#18
get in touch with AutoPower and find out first hand, if it's not, then contact SCCA directly and find out what manufacturers are approved. Also take a look at ontario's Solo 1 and 2 associations and find out what pre-fabbed roll cages are approved by them... or what they recommend. I don't race, so I don't know.
24-Nov-2003, 08:22 PM
#20
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A roof holding 4x the weight of a honda is not very impressive. That is a static weight based upon gravity as the only acting force. Add the instant deceleration factor of a crash to that weight and the force generated will easily turn your car into your grave. If you have a seat with a 4-point harness and your roof caves in you are dead (or at least have a crushed spine). Period.
I'm not saying a 4-point cage will not work, but you have to decide how safe you want to be. If I'm on a track travelling at a average speed in excess of 100km/h, I would want a level of protection to guarantee that I have my legs, arms, and back on my way home at the end of the day (a minimum 10-point cage for me). And just like the building code, the requirements of a roll cage for competition will increase as people die in accidents that could have been prevented by a better roll cage. If someone dies at the races in a 4-point cage and it is proven that a 10-point cage would have saved his/her life, I'm sure that a 10-point cage will be enforced in the future.
I'm not saying a 4-point cage will not work, but you have to decide how safe you want to be. If I'm on a track travelling at a average speed in excess of 100km/h, I would want a level of protection to guarantee that I have my legs, arms, and back on my way home at the end of the day (a minimum 10-point cage for me). And just like the building code, the requirements of a roll cage for competition will increase as people die in accidents that could have been prevented by a better roll cage. If someone dies at the races in a 4-point cage and it is proven that a 10-point cage would have saved his/her life, I'm sure that a 10-point cage will be enforced in the future.
