Eg Hb B16a Sirii Swap
30-Dec-2003, 10:56 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Eg Hb B16a Sirii Swap
OK, first post
Me a E36 owner, never drove a honda before. Recently interested build a track car, heard about the eg doing a b16A swap is easy. Then my questions are:
1. Which model should I pick, 92models all came with VTEC wires rite? Should I pick a CX? DX? Si?
2. How much will be the swap cost? Labour?
3. About the suspension, I am looking for a coilover, which one? Tein? Model?
Thanks
Me a E36 owner, never drove a honda before. Recently interested build a track car, heard about the eg doing a b16A swap is easy. Then my questions are:
1. Which model should I pick, 92models all came with VTEC wires rite? Should I pick a CX? DX? Si?
2. How much will be the swap cost? Labour?
3. About the suspension, I am looking for a coilover, which one? Tein? Model?
Thanks
31-Dec-2003, 11:02 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Pickering
Posts: 3,984
B16 track car? hahah.. gonna be expensive to get decent #'s with a b16..
Only the Si's came with vtec.
If your gonna build a track car I'm assuming it's gonna get stripped so buy a cx, BASE model and work with that.. you will need to run vtec wires.. not biggee!
Only the Si's came with vtec.
If your gonna build a track car I'm assuming it's gonna get stripped so buy a cx, BASE model and work with that.. you will need to run vtec wires.. not biggee!
you need a RUST FREE 1992 Civic VX (ONLY Si and VX have VTEC). Once you get that, holla back at us, and we'll go from there.
31-Dec-2003, 02:41 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,149
b16b is a garbage motor..no torque..it's liek a b16 wiht bolt on's...and is way expensive....I'd stay clear of 1.6's and go for a b18c if you want to be competative....get a base model cause they are lgihter and cheaper...then get a 5 bolt itr conversion with itr brakes a b18c with botl on's and a lsd tranny and soem tein's or jic's..tha's jstu alkgin out my ***...get a nice hatch first then come back..
31-Dec-2003, 03:45 PM
#10
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Posts: 1,149
ya good for auto x or small course but a road course you would be horribly geared with a ls tranny or run outta rpm's with a gsr or type r tranny and not have any top end pull which is what the DOHC vtec motors are known for
31-Dec-2003, 03:50 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
Originally posted by dingus8
ya good for auto x or small course but a road course you would be horribly geared with a ls tranny or run outta rpm's with a gsr or type r tranny and not have any top end pull which is what the DOHC vtec motors are known for
ya good for auto x or small course but a road course you would be horribly geared with a ls tranny or run outta rpm's with a gsr or type r tranny and not have any top end pull which is what the DOHC vtec motors are known for
31-Dec-2003, 04:13 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
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whats the speed on a 4th gear gsr, at 7,000rpm (i doubt anyone knows)... but an educated guess would be in the high 170km/h range... there are so many variables to weather the car would top out or not.. like how fast the car gets to that speed, and the lenght of the straight aways...
Trial and error i guess, thats what raceings all about, and haveing a good crew to swap out and try different trannys for each corse...
Trial and error i guess, thats what raceings all about, and haveing a good crew to swap out and try different trannys for each corse...
31-Dec-2003, 05:46 PM
#17
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Posts: 40
Originally posted by Cablerat
B16 track car? hahah.. gonna be expensive to get decent #'s with a b16..
Only the Si's came with vtec.
If your gonna build a track car I'm assuming it's gonna get stripped so buy a cx, BASE model and work with that.. you will need to run vtec wires.. not biggee!
B16 track car? hahah.. gonna be expensive to get decent #'s with a b16..
Only the Si's came with vtec.
If your gonna build a track car I'm assuming it's gonna get stripped so buy a cx, BASE model and work with that.. you will need to run vtec wires.. not biggee!
31-Dec-2003, 06:08 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
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I will have a rollcage as of January 26th or so .....
anyways my opinion on preping a car for racing is this ...
1) decide what series you want to race in
2) get current rule book for said series
3) find out if you have the driver qualifications.... not all are show up and go (unless it's autoX)
4) decide on class you want to run in (very very very very important)
5) understand what mods you can and canot do for said class
6) decide on the what the best car would be for the class
7) find the best condition car that you've decided on
8) purchase everything you need and have fun...
ok as for rollcages ... if the rules allow just a roll bar and the car is being driven on the street I recommend that since you don't want the extra front bars around your head when you don't have a helmet on and get into an accident ..... very very messy and possible death could result.
also for suspension .. custom made linear springs stiffer in the rear then the front .... as for drop... or lowering you wheels should not TUCK ever....when you turn the wheel from lock to lock your wheels should not touch the body of the car ever...Also get lead wieghts and load up the corners under full wieght transfer the tires should not rub either.....
that said if you go to a 195/50/15 tire then it's about the same size as stock... you'd probably only get a 1inch drop before issue start being incountered like I said....
anyways my opinion on preping a car for racing is this ...
1) decide what series you want to race in
2) get current rule book for said series
3) find out if you have the driver qualifications.... not all are show up and go (unless it's autoX)
4) decide on class you want to run in (very very very very important)
5) understand what mods you can and canot do for said class
6) decide on the what the best car would be for the class
7) find the best condition car that you've decided on
8) purchase everything you need and have fun...
ok as for rollcages ... if the rules allow just a roll bar and the car is being driven on the street I recommend that since you don't want the extra front bars around your head when you don't have a helmet on and get into an accident ..... very very messy and possible death could result.
also for suspension .. custom made linear springs stiffer in the rear then the front .... as for drop... or lowering you wheels should not TUCK ever....when you turn the wheel from lock to lock your wheels should not touch the body of the car ever...Also get lead wieghts and load up the corners under full wieght transfer the tires should not rub either.....
that said if you go to a 195/50/15 tire then it's about the same size as stock... you'd probably only get a 1inch drop before issue start being incountered like I said....
31-Dec-2003, 06:10 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
Koni yellows are a good choice for a shock .... revalved to be stiffer in the rear.....
left as is for the fronts....
and get sway bars and strut tower bars and all that ....
but first of all decide on the other stuff I listed in my previous post
left as is for the fronts....
and get sway bars and strut tower bars and all that ....
but first of all decide on the other stuff I listed in my previous post
