imported_Thrill_House

Im sorry, with as the BS and retard statements being thrown around in this thread hasnt anyone else realized how rediculous it is to even be considering doing a either of the swaps in question into a WINTER BEATER!!!!??? I mean hell if the original motor was a d15b2 with dual point injection or something then I could see swapping that junk out for maybe a dual cam ZC or something which is a hell of alot cheaper then any B or K series swap and it still boots along pretty decent, plus in the future you can easily and cheapily build that motor up to accept crap loads boost if thats what you decide. Either way I think all this bickering and BS uneducated statements being thrown around in this thread is just plain stupid and it isnt helping anybody.

imported_alwaysoverkill

and why boost a B18C5, its got high compression, boost a B18B will accomplish more power safely.

winter beater is usually bought for just that, a WINTER BEATER to beat on during the winter when you want your good car tucked away. A K20 or C5 into EF winter beater....retarded. either buy a nice winter beater like Subaru WRX or Audi A4 (both of which have AWD) or drive the winter beater until it quits

K20 or B18C5 though, if monye is not an issue...K20. If your thinking Naturally aspirated, K20 for sure...if boosting B18B.

B18B, B18C5, K20, K24...all these motors have strengths....turbo + high compression means less room for error. research is needed for a B18B to not blow it up...but again, why boost the beater anyways

sol2nv

Yeah this year its my winter beater next year its not even seeing september but right now its an 1989 si model wif a sohc zc in it and i got it for cheap so thats why i picked it up but its not stayin winter beater after i do the swap...so ur tellin me a type r can handle turbo well? i heard that there is too many problems and doesnt run as good as it would jus all motor done to the **** or if it wuz supercharged so whats better for a b18c5? lol conspiracy's lol and thanks for all the replys to this u guys are the best n to :

Im sorry, with as the BS and retard statements being thrown around in this thread hasnt anyone else realized how rediculous it is to even be considering doing a either of the swaps in question into a WINTER BEATER!!!!??? I mean hell if the original motor was a d15b2 with dual point injection or something then I could see swapping that junk out for maybe a dual cam ZC or something which is a hell of alot cheaper then any B or K series swap and it still boots along pretty decent, plus in the future you can easily and cheapily build that motor up to accept crap loads boost if thats what you decide. Either way I think all this bickering and BS uneducated statements being thrown around in this thread is just plain stupid and it isnt helping anybody

yo im new into the whole race thing my del slow is del show no go well jus a lil of go but i like to hear other ppls opionins mayb not helpin u but helpin me out...thanks

RDub99

iTrader: (1)

don't boost a b18c5, compression is too high for it, if you really want to do it, you'll need low-comp pistons.. and alot of other stuff.. R motors are built for N/A.. it would be a lot of money to boost it and do it properly..

imported_Team Rukus

you know what this post just made me realize another huge thing.

WINTERRRRRR LOL

you arent getting traction for **** with a k20.
you arent getting gas milage for **** either.

supercharger on a 4 cylinder? LOL right. our motors are econoline no matter which motor you take....they can barely turn the power steering pump.

definately ef is not a good host. imo atleast eg (92-95) just cuz of clearance issues alone for k series.

and oh yea if you plan on keeping p/s consider k series bye bye.

sol2nv

what does p/s mean? power streering? if yes car never came wif it i already did some mods jus to keep me goin threw winter wif a some fast car.......and yeha thats what i thought thanks....whats ur advice on a 100-150 shot of nos and b18c5 or k20 would work better on dry or wet nos? would i blow my motor asap with that much or should i stay at a 80 shot?

imported_SaYjAiBaO

are you the girl with the orange del sol with the DA front integra lights? i saw your car at performance world and at timmys . don't squeeze on a nice motor like b18c5 or k20. if you want power and cheap then just go LS turbo. imo if you really want to do up your winter beater just go DIY sohc turbo. super cheap and you can replace the block easily. just don't boost too much because those blocks like to flex a lot under a lot of boost. a turbo sohc in an EF is quick enough, but i don't know why you'd need such a fast car in the winter. you'd have clearance problems on the EF, either it will sit CRAZY low or you will have to modify the hood to make the motor fit.

imported_alwaysoverkill

100-150 shot = Kaboom in record time, you could likely use a 50 shot, 75 max. 50 for reliable shot, 75 i believe is pushing it as far as reliablility of that expensive new B18C5 or K20 is concerned.

P/S = power steering

sol2nv

yeah thats me lol naw im lookin to be fast i have a couple ppl in mind that i wanna mkake them go home LS to small for me i went slow wif the whole del slow thing now i jus wanna go F1 wif my civic lol

sol2nv

and thanks for the nos tip lol see i have a speed fetish

sol2nv

next question im forsure gettin one of those motors jus gotta make up my mind which one for both of those what kind of suspencion is recommened i wuz gonna do type r 5 bolt but is it worth my time a buddy says keep it 4 bolt what u think guys?

imported_SaYjAiBaO

5 bolt imo is a theft magnet, i have 4 bolt integra brakes all around with hawk hp plus pads and 2000 gsr mc and bb. my setup is perfect for my uses but to my passengers, it's overkill. with a light car like an ef , you can just go with some aggressive pads. LS is too small for you? with a light car like the EF, LS turbo is MORE than enough. nos is gay imo. you want forced induction don't you? i just don't see how LS turbo is not enough for your EF .

imported_weiRtech

you will need axles, spindles and brakes out of an integra or newer civic i believe. i went with integra spindles on my gsr swap and rather than just go with the stock integra brakes i upgraded to prelude 11.1" rotors and accord wagon calipers. i had to spend the money anyway, why not go bigger? the down side is i can't get anything smaller than a 15" rim over them. i'd love to sell it all and go with wilwoods or something. here is a comparison of the stock rotors and the prelude rotors. i had to change the bolt pattern and modify the caliper mounting brackets. running hawk hp plus pads.

sol2nv

lol tru so go aggressive pads and convert to disc in the back and yeah u ever hear the v-tec on a typie or k20? mmm its like sweet cherry pie jus makes u feel all warm inside lol jokes** i jus in love wif the v-tec in those motors plus they are most difficult and i like being difficult cuz no one has the patience to stick wif it...

imported_SaYjAiBaO

those hp+ squeak like a **** eh? lol even worse on slotted or cross drilled. sick setup though, did you upgrade your mc and bb? i guess you have to because you went from such dinky rotors to huge 11" rotors.

vtec on the K series are mean, i have a clip of 2 rsxs ripping by me at shannonville and you can literally hear the vtec engage. it's mean . but yeah if you just like hearing vtec then ge a B16 =D. vtec for some reason on those motors are very loud compared to the B18. but once you boost it, i heard you can barely hear the vtec anymore so not like it matters.

imported_weiRtech

it isn't nescassary really to upgrade the rears. the front brakes do most of the work anyway. no i didn't upgrade anything else yet. i have ss lines sitting on the shelf. just haven't found the time to put them on.

krystn, if you do intend to go turbo, kevin is right, you won't really hear the vtec anyway.

imported_Team Rukus

get a b16b and go all motor this would rip it.
lol
btw i am selling one if you are interested

as for k20 like i said I would definately stay away from it if I had a ef.
put a b series motor.
nirtrous oxide= boom just like alwaysoverkill said if not used properly
its vtec not v-tec just for future referance lol.

5 bolt is useless especially on the ef.
imo if you want to change your bolt pattern cuz there are some nice oem wheels out there get 4X114.3 off the integra type r from the 96 model (japan) and put the itr wheels on it. clean and has H instead of a A emblem.

again if money isnt an issue i would definately pick up a better car even if you did pick up this car for cheap.


you can get a 92 eg for like 300 bucks. or get a shell for 500 in near mint condition and then start on it that way. either way its still better then EF.
the problem is not only in doing swaps the problem is that the body is too outdated for the parts that are available nowadays (the products)

sol2nv

yeah but im goin all motor till aug then im goin to think about it lol and no b16s got one in the del slow still not fast enuff if i could i would put a h22 in my civic but i heard that is major problems n thanks for the info n support u guys

sol2nv

Team Rukus


thanks yeah while talkin about this for 2 days i think im goin b18c5 instead of k20 but its not certain yet n i dunno about that i would jus be wasting more money on another car and stuff when i got the little civic that could right now and i like the old skools better then the eg not my style too bubblely n sooooooooo many of those mine is a 1989 at least in a couple of years i can run it open headers if they dont change the e-testing lol cuz its gonna be a classic n does anyone know any good shops not spitfire jus a shop that no one knows but does good work and has one or to done civics thanks

imported_Spiderman

If no one knows about the shop.
Then how are you going to get any info on it?