ECU CODE... 20 and 23 Help!!!
 

My problem now is that my car has thrown a CEL
the first code is 20, which is ELD (electrical load detector), how can i fix this? i m not to sure, i searched but only come up explaining that this is used to measure the power to the ECU?

and the second code is a 23, which is the knock sensor,
i m not to worried about this because i can look into this one more myself to see if my KS is actually plugged in or not...

will the 23 (KS) not allow vtec to engage? and with the CEL does that also mean the CAr runs in limp mode???

when the car runs in limp mode, it doesnt go above like 3000 rpm

Uhhh, don't think soo.. Car will rev past 3K.
Vtec will NOT engage.

ya car revs past 3gs for sure... its quick... but vtec would be nice, i have a little more wiring then i m going to test it again...

Running properly vs limp mode makes a big difference man.

ELD will NOT force your car into limp mode. Only the KNOCK SENSOR is doing that. What engine / ECU?

Canadian model civics DO NOT had ELDs, I've looked and it aint there.. atleast not in a 93 Si. So honestly, don't waste your time trying to fix that one.. Doesn't hurt anything.. When I was running my H22 on a P13, I would have an ELD and KS code(KS code kicked in after 5500 rpm). The ELD never triggered the engine light(limp mode).

Just so you know, the knock sensor is the biggest bitch in the world. You much have a shield wire throughout, otherwise anything can set off the KS. Mine used to do it right as I hit vtec. Only solution I found was to chip the ecu to bypass the KS.

post an update once you do more.

okay the setup i have is a JDM B18C with JDM R Tranny... ECU P72... i have wire the KS to the ECU but i still throw a CEL for it...

i was lucky enough to have a 92 civic where the vtec wires were already pre-wired so all the vtec is wires are proper, its just adding the KS...

how much or where would u suggest getting it chipped?

ygpm

yuo can just bypass the KS throuugh the ecu

yeah, you're going to have to bypass the KS.

It is ALWAYS on? or does the CEL kick in once you hit a certain rpm? etc..?

If it's always on, you may have wired it wrong.

Not sure where you can get it chipped, I swapped a P28 eventually and chipped that myself with a program I found on the net. I hear Hyperducktuning is good, he'll chipp and tune the car.. You might as well get it tuned properly if you're gonna have a shop do it.

the CEL only comes on nearing high rpms.. i would say 4-5 range, i dont have a tach but thats where it sounds...

yep, you got interference in the wire for sure.
Are you using shielded wire? You might wanna try that, but it's a bitch trying to re-wire that properly once it's already in. I still say best bet is to try to have KS removed from your P72, otherwise swap to a chipped P28. Only prob with the P28 is you loose your secondary butterflies, but that can be controlled thru an rpm switch.

If chipped correctly you can control the solenoid for the butterfly valve through the p28. I currently have this done on my p06 which has also been configured for vtec(tuned with uberdata-p72 map) and the knock sensor has been removed.

Cablerat.. the wires are not shielded, you think i should try that first? or where just chip my P72... ya ELD code is there i m not worried its just that after the engine gets to somewhat of a proper running temp, it will through the CEL...

im haveing a v simelar problem in my ek i have a d16y5 and my engin light is on and my vtec not working because of the code 23 :)


i dont know how 2 find out what wire it is i need 2 change from my comp :)

what was done when i did my swap, i pulled the wiring harness from a del sol, which was wired with vtec... my car being a 92 DX came pre-wired for vtec as i found that only the 92 all models were pre-wired... but when driving the del sol i never threw a check engine light, the wire is not shielded, i dont see how it would make a difference now that i just swapped the engine to a different chassis...

honestly, I don't know how to explain it.

Just from what i've read, you should have a shielded wire for your KS. Basically, the Knock generates a voltage thru vibrations, so there could be many things throwing it off.

Best bet is to get your ECU chipped and have KS removed.
I don't know where you can have it chipped, I did mine myself.

what are the downfalls of removing the KS from ECU??
my dad says i may blow the engine ???

Run premium fuel, stock timing and don't LUG the engine and you'll be fine. I don't see why you would run anything other than premium in an engine with a 10.6:1 compression ratio.

so your saying you took the engine harness from the del sol as well? and wired into your car ??????

if so make sure the knock sensor is not only in hte harness but leads through the oem wires to your ecu... try running a seperate wire directly to your ecu and see what happens

You can blow your engine potentially, but as long you tune the car and fill premium you'll be fine. Not having a KS sensor opens you up to engine knock(detonation). Pretty much any good shop you go to they'll say screw knock.

When you say you swapped the stock delsol harness, is that just the harness on the engine side or also the harness going INTO car leading directly to the ECU?

Cuz you can get magnetic interference from any point in the wire. 99% of ppl only swap the engine side harness and plug into the stock body side harness.