E-test/safety on fully built gt30r b18c5
 

car is 95 eg hatch, FULLY gutted!, currently JRSC'd at 6psi (anyone interested in JRSC complete setup, tuned chip (neptune), with w/i kit for CHEAP, pm me)
Getting my engine/head fully built (83mm benson sleeved 9:1 CPs etc.) this winter for a gt3076r setup (ramhorn, 3" dp, 3" exhaust, open dumptube off wg, dyno tuned) for the spring.
My car has not been on the road before (track only) and I am wanting to get it on the road next spring.
I will need to get it e-tested, and was wondering if it will pass with this setup.
I will have a catch can, and get a cat for the e-test, but will this be enough for it to pass?
(I know wbout the methyl hydrate or whatever its called stuff, but don't want to put that into my freshly built motor if don't need to...)

Also wondering what i need to pass safety/be legal for the street. car is fully gutted/cage, no door panels/airbags, battery relocated to back, canadian ITR dash swap... as long as tires are DOT, they are legal for the street?

i think this is the safety checklist:
http://www.e-laws.gov.on.ca/html/regs/english/elaws_regs_900611_e.htm#BK1

doesnt say anything about relocation battery and if a sealed battery box is needed.

i saw this part in the safety checklist:
"no exhaust system shall be shortened or modified from original equipment so as to fail to direct the exhaust beyond the underbody of the occupant compartment or luggage compartment"
does this mean open dumptubes are illegal?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated, especially from people who know facts and/or have a similiar turbo setup etc... http://www.torontointegras.ca/forums...ilies/yeah.gif
pics:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/DSC00286.jpg

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back when n/a
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vid for your enjoyment
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yETeKkM-rVc

thanks

read up on the open vs closed loop dumptubes and found that yes open is illegal, but quite a few people still do an open loop setup.

i think i can get away with open and be fine, as this car is not my dd.

Excellent setup... GT30 will likely be big enough to not spool while running through the e-test, though you might want to have a map you can run that's a little closer to Stoich instead of enriched as most turbo setups run... just switch it back to your regular map after the test.

EWG's/Atmospheric dump tubes are mean and unfriendly to the environment since they vent exhaust that hasn't run through the CAT, and as such are hated by hippies and our government. Your options are lying or going to a crooked e-test center :P

The rollcage might garner some negativity regarding safety... While I can't seem to find anything in the HTA about roll cages, I know that the type that allow a harness (has the bar running across the back of the seats) is a no-no... yes even if you have no rear seats, it'll be a subjective thing and some places will bitch.

As for tires, DOT spec applies to street and racing. As long as your tires have a street rating that is applicable to a car (S, T, U, H, V, W, or Y), and they have some tread left you're in good shape.

Nothing really usefull to add... but big props on the car!
E-test can be passed by talking to the person running your etest. Let them know your car is not 'stock' and talk about the 'hot rod' setting. Or Come up for a visit with a safety, we don't do etests up here lol.

^ Thanks guys

Went to the local mufflerman for a safety test to see what I would need to pass. Turned out better than i expected. Things i need to fix:

-All lights must be working (need to get my highbeams, rear corners, and license plate ones working)
-Horn
-new rotors (was planning on getting new pads + rotors anyways)
-tires
-power windows working (since i have power windows in there, just now working at the moment) (only drives door NEEDS to work)
-rear wiper

Thats it! :D

They were fine with no rear seats/seatbelts, as everthing associated with them has been removed, so basically it's been converted to a 2 seater.
Battery location etc. and rollcage is fine they said

I can get everything listed fixed/working fairly easy i think. Only PITA will be getting the lights working properly, but i'll get er done.

Been thinking about the turbo etc. setup as well lately, and figured since i am sleeving/fully building the block/head, i might as well get a turbo that uses the motors potential, so instead of the GT30r, i was considering the GT35r, but then looked into the Bullseye Power s362 (with extended tip technology) (it is a journal bearing, but not water cooled, so much less hassle etc.)(will have very good alarm system with built in turbo timer), how it has similiar spool to the 35r, but more power capability (700 over gt35 650). Looked into the BP s366 and HTA GT3586R, but their a bit too big for my needs. (if you know of any other turbos capable of 680-700whp range but with decent spool, please chime in)
hoping to hit full boost (whatever that ends up being) on race gas tune that would get me 680whp, by 6200 rpm. will set redline to im thinking 9300-9400rpm.

Probably gonna switch to AEBS 83 or 84mm sleeves with Manley I beams, the CP 9:1s, Golden eagle heavy duty head studs, and all new pumps and belts etc. Might swap out my ITR crank for an oem 89mm crank, but not sure if I want to give up my ITR crank, and whether or not i can find a good shape 89mm for a decent price.

Also thinking of ditching the ramhorn setup and going with a top mount. This will allow me to use a 4inch DP easier (allowing me to keep as close to 1:1 exhaust manifold/intake pressure as possible, resulting in slightly more hp), as well as flow a bit better in the top end.

As for the exhaust, I want to have it street legal (safety/emissions as well), so am going to use my current exhaust setup (see pics, but with a quality cat after the dp instead of the test pipe), but with a quick time performance 4inch electric exhaust cutout located near the end (welded off the downpipe at like a 30 or so degree angle, to atmosphere) of the 4inch downpipe. I will route the dumptube (will have a flexpipe) into the downpipe at the (opposite side of dp) cutout location, so as the flow of the dumptube routes towards the cutout. This should provide very little flow restriction for both the downpipe and dumptube (when valve is open), which would hopefully allow me to hit my goal of over 500whp on 94 pump and over 650whp (hoping for 675) on race. As well as (when valve is closed) allowing me to pass safety and emissions (asked the guys at mufflerman when i was there and they said the electric exhaust cutouts are fine, as long as there is no leak), and be quiet for normal street driving. I would have a seperate (conservative) tune for this (valve closed) which would give me around 350-380whp im guessing, and hopefully allow me to pass emissions test as well. Hoping to hit the boost that would get me over 500whp on valve open tune by 6000rpm.

Either going to keep using my ITR cams, or switch to either skunk2 tuner1s,2s or pro1s. Need a cam that will allow me to pass emissions, but while doing that, get me the most power. Willing to sacrifice some power in the valve closed tune, to gain in pump valve open and race valve open tunes (if that is the case). If the pro1s can pass emissions, i would most likely go with them (look up evans tuning skunk2 pro 1s vs ctr cam dyno comparison for more info (huge gains everywhere)). Not sure how much i would gain switching from my ITRs to either tuner 1s or 2s, and whether or not it would be worth the expense. (Im not thinking it is)

Thinking I will use Hondata S300 with boost solenoid, and have boost by gear vs rpm.
Will a comp stage 5 clutch or something other than a twin disk hold my 680whp, or will i need to go with an expensive twin disk...

Will post up my full build parts etc. list as well if you want, as there is quite a few things needed to support my setup (that i havent mentioned already)


Feel free to comment etc. on my setup/ideas.

pics while at mufflerman (cel phone):
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o and heres a pic of my dynosheet of my JRSC 6psi wi setup that is kinda up for sale for cheap...
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Pure Sex. But clearly you will NOT be able to have sex in it. So for guys like me this is fail.

HabanerRed 06Si, there's always the hood.

Bluewater: You asked like 50 questions. And your methods are a little flawed. Maybe research a bit more, or ask simpler/less questions all at once. REV'ing to 9400 and making power is very unlikely, for starters.

I don't have the time to help you out in this post, sorry.
-B

I really didn't expect to get answers, just sharing my ideas, and if you disagree with them, thats fine. Some insight as to why you disagree would be helpful though, as isn't that what a forum is all about?
perhaps at least let me know what you think i am "flawed" on, so i could at least research that specific topic...

I didn't say i would make power til 9400, my ITR tranny is very short, and i may be able to use a couple hundred more rpm up top so i don't have to shift into the next gear in some cases, or when i do shift into the next gear, i'm not below the spool rpm of the turbo/way below the rpm that makes decent power. it will give me a broader rpm range that the turbo is spooled in. Probably wont be quite that high, most likely 9200-9300. With the ITR crank, i will have a lower rod ratio than an 89mm crank, putting less pressure on the cylinder sidewalls, allowing me to rev higher. And since i won't have the torque of the the 89mm, i will need that extra couple hundred rpm up top, due to not having it down low.
Pro1s would make decent power still from 9000-9300 rpm. ITR cams not as much, so may lower it to like 9100-9200 if i stick with them, but theres other reasons like i mentioned above why i would still rev high. Look at my JRSC dynograph. Where is it making its most power? 9000 rpm, and still rising :p

The place i'm getting it build at will help guide me in the right direction for my build etc. so things may change a bit once i converse with them more.

Heres a couple questions that if u want to help me answer, then feel free (in a nice easy way for you to undersand ;)):

1) besides the BPs362, what turbo would you recommend that is capable of 700whp with a decent spool.

2) will sk2 pro 1s make me fail e-test (cam gears can be adjusted)

3) is there a clutch other than a twin disk would hold 680whp at the dragstrip? (twin disks are mighty expensive).

The other like 47 i can figure out elsewhere...
cheers

I assume that was sarcasm?
A:
1) I don't know that turbo. Turbo's are done by size. Their are many that people will mention, and People assume they're all the same. (T3, T4, T3/T4, FP Green, FP Red, Etc.) So you probably know more about the turbos for your build than I would. From Subaru experience, I'd say get a FP Red... but that would probably mean nothing to you. And it might only get 500-600whp.

2. Pro 1's are similar to the Integra ITR Cams, or so I've been told. Since you don't have the same engine as the car your etesting, why do you think Cams would make a difference? I suppose you should be fine.

3. Twin disk is your best bet, but you knew that. There was a used one for $500 here. I'm using a Competition Clutch in my CRX. Bought from Lightningmotorsports.com They're fantastic to deal with over the phone. Ask them anything you want, really smart people.
-B

The turbo sizing should be calculated and not just guessed. there is a big variety from garrett, some like gt35/gt40/gt45 or t66/t88 which im sure would make enough power. Just look at the compressor maps and see what works best.