imported_mikepasini

I am thinking of doing a mini-me conversion to my engine and I have read that you will get a little more horsepower than the y8 alone because of better compression.

I was wondering if anyone had any dyno results from this conversion. As well, what set-ups did ppl use. When I do the conversion I am going to buy a full AEM cold air system and currently I have an exhaust (no headers). I was advised against headers on my sohc d16y7 because there would be not enough back pressure or something and I would end up losing power. If I did this conversion would headers benefit me?

Thanks. any help would be great!

shlammed

a better idea would be to save up for a real swap

mini-me benefits are minimal

imported_mikepasini

well, the way I look at it, if I do a complete engine swap it will cost be lots of $$$$$$ and say to a b16a2, i get 160hp. Or go with the mini-me and hopefully get 127+ hp (heard it was more -- hoping to find out results from this thread) and keep my nice and long gears. 2nd - 110km/hr, 3rd - 155km/hr, 4th - 190km/hr, 5th - useless.

I would also grab a vtech controller and jump up my vtech engagement to about 4500/5000 rpm to compensate for the longer gears. Longer gears help cause i hold my hp longer!!!

let me know if there is any more info or anything to bash about what I said!!!!

Nova_Dust

For headers, if you want to save money, go with Y8 header. If you have a little more money to spare, modify the flange to a larger opening (mods can be found on HADA's website). If you want something other than OEM, then you can try DC 4-1 header (or 4-2-1, I am not sure). These don't cost much.

If your engine has increased intake air volumn, then you want your header to have enough volumn to exit the exhaust gas. A simple I/H/E will see some results, but it won't be "leaving everyone in the dust" type of result. Your car will be faster than before. And if you want more, you can always modify other things to gain a little.

Then you can also play cam, polish the Y8 head a little and get some extra HP out of that. But for beginners like you and I, I think what you are doing is fine and fun. Try it.

imported_mikepasini

cool, right on. Well, I really wanted the vtech from before and now this is my chance to get one that outperforms the y8(byt vary little, but still).

So headers wouldn't take away from performance like they would on my y7?

As well, I am going to throw a new camshaft in there for a little better low-end torque as well. I just hope that this will be a noticeable increase from my feels like 90hp y7.

Also, any tips on the tranny? Throw in the shorter y8 si tranny or keep my y7 longer tranny and throw on a vtech controller to engage later. I think logically keeping the y7 will yield better results overall.

shlammed

check pm

imported_Fug

I'd say keep the short gears,
and its vtec......

Double_B

When do you plan on doing all of this, sounds interesting....

ADR3NLYN_EK

i did a mini-me swap last year...personally i dont think its worth it but i got the vtec head for free so why not...the car feels faster at high rpm's as expected but from 0-4000 there is no difference, in fact maybe its just me but it feels kinda slower...

Nova_Dust

And it is VTEC

For tranny, Y8 will do fine, because the engine is low on HP to begin with, you want the speed to pick up faster, hence the shorter gears.

Or, source out a JDM D15 LSD tranny and call it a day.

Or, get a Y8 tranny, rebuild it and add Quaife LSD, lighten flywheel, 4.7/4.9 FD, decent stage 2 or 3 clutch and that, will be one helluva combo. That also equal to a lot of money but transmission is a whole other department and should not be overlooked. Power is nice but without good transmission, none of it will get transferred to the ground properly.

From one D series guy to another, that's pretty much what I have in mind as far as transmission goes. For the actual engine, I thought about get a D16Y8, rebuild it and with some internal works, while have the block itself build to handle some serious boost (but I will leave it NA for now), get a nice header, go ITB. Transmission and get a larger B pipe and that should be a good car to drive around.

Then if I need more power, just slap on a turbo. No need to worry about taking out the engine because it is already built to spec.

I am sure it is 200% times more difficult than that, but that's a wishful thinking in the making. I can't say it is going to happen 100% for sure; but I think I am slowly going in that direction. With the parts I purchased and the suspension works, I don't think I am doing it just for the kick of it. If I am going through with it, I want it to be one special D16, it won't be the first one, but it won't be a sucker either.

I will be satisfied no matter what because my goal was never to be the fastest guy on the street, or on the track so power plant never concerns me. Without the word "SWAP" floating around in my head, I can focus on how to make the factory D16 and my car a better package as oppose to ditch the D and go with B, then ditch the B and go with K. That's another part of the game which I don't want to get involved. I just want to work with what I have, and make it better.

My next year agenda is most likely transmission.

imported_mikepasini

well i am looking roughly around 3-4 weeks from now. Checking prices for decent labour costs for the mods to be done. For sure, I am putting on the y8 head conversion and get the p28 ecu in there for a 96-00 si. I was thinking of maybe keeping my y7 tranny because it works awesome right now. Those long gears are great. I know the long gears would drag out on the vtech engagment, so i am going to throw a vtech controller on top and have it engage at like 4500 or something so then it is kicked in for a shorter time. Or maybe lower, but i think that may be dragging it out... I dunno. any ideas? I personally think the shorter gears will slow me down. like i can hit 100 in 2nd gear... so that is only one shift... keep my revs high the whole time. If i had the si tranny, i am hitting 80 in 2nd (as far as i know) and then when I throw it in 3rd, my pickup is a lot slower than in 2nd gear.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

well built mini me should net you about 110 hp at the wheels, which is a lil better than basic y8 swap.

imported_mikepasini

ok, so that 110whp is basically what you net on the street? So, the y8 advertises 127 hp... is that at the crank (if that is the correct term?). I assumed I would get at least 127hp by doing the conversion. What is the whp of the actually y8(not mini-me). What is the actual whp of my y7 right now?

Also, the 2004 civic si coupe, they advertise 127hp. Is that at the wheel or at the crank? Thanks.

Chigga1

im not dissin the D series at all.
in fact i truly believe they have so much potential!

in fact, i will throw in my .02 cents.
not worth it!

just boost it and be happy.
you can get an edelbrock kit for that car pumping ut good HP!
or like someone else said, save up for a swap..

b16a2 or B18c1
its like a drug you will never be happy!
even though going all motor is very heavy $$$$$$ i truly believe the accomplsihments are rewarding, but going with truly high compression..... tough to find gas stations over 92 sometimes.
it would really have to be tuned!

Good luck i say save money!

cee_mon

Here are acouple dyno's for mini me's....


http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1180550

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=481582

imported_mikepasini

any more input?

imported_mikepasini

i am looking around at mini-me specs and there are so many different types of mini-mes and ppl are saying like 110-120whp on it. I see z6, a6, y7, y8, d15s.

How will my y7 block and y8 head compare to other ones out there. Wont it give me the same if not more power than the factory 127hp d16y8?

punkindrublic

toss in some p29 pistons while doing this and you'll get a bit more go

mdt920

Here is my potential setup being completed soon:

D16a6 block (91 crx si) (in my car!)
-ARP Head Bolts (camew/head)

D16z6 head (95 civic si) -- all work done by GUDE ($500 camw/other stuff too)

-port polished
-milled can't recall the specs
-3 angle valve job
-P29 pistons - possibly - compression may be too high w/the head
-new 02 sensor -- rywire.com($74)
-distributor harness -- rywire.com($25)
-OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness -- jkobd.com ($120)
p28 ECU (95 si) (came w/head)
Fields Vtec Controller(came w/head)
- Bseries Throtlle body (free)

AEM CAM gear(came w/head)
Zex 53900 Cam (came w/head)
AEM Cold Air Intake(used $80)
Megan Racing 4-2-1 header($150)
Magnaflow high flow cat($90)
Megan Racing Full Catback for CRX 2.5"($375)

Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit ($300)
Lighted Flywheel ($150)

All OEM regular maintenance parts (apprx. $250-hook up price)
-timing belt
-water pump
-cap
-rotor
-wires
-head gasket
-exhaust manifold gasket
-intake manifold gasket

I think that is everything.
The cost does get up there, however some of the parts were donated & I've been collecting for a while so I didnt really notice the cost.
Im not realy into speed however figuring this in a crx it should be pretty decent if I ever get around to it....otherwise I'll just sell it off....the parts

imported_mikepasini

will a b16 or b18 throttle body bold on to the intake manifold from a d16y8? Would it be beneficial to throw that on?