Drum breaks.... rusted like crazy!
22-Jul-2003, 12:13 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 18,367
Drum breaks.... rusted like crazy!
I took my wheels off to paint the steel rims and when I took the rear wheels off, boy those drum breaks are so rusted they look disgusting!
It is just not simple rusting that you find on most rotors, the drums are being eaten away by the rusts on the edges...
So, get new drums? Or they are still ok to drive?
It is just not simple rusting that you find on most rotors, the drums are being eaten away by the rusts on the edges...
So, get new drums? Or they are still ok to drive?
, mine look rusted out to, going to drive em till they break or till i have enough for gs or gsr brakes
22-Jul-2003, 02:16 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 326
Get "First Line"
I've always had good luck with "First Line" aftermarket parts.
These are basically the most expensive of the all the "aftermarket" parts - as compared to the other brands. Still significantly cheaper than Honda parts.
Mind you, OEM is the best quality ever.
Typically, they have "lifetime warranties". My buddie is on his third muffler for his civic and he just brings back the old one, shows the receipt, and they give him a new one. (Motorcade Auto Parts). Mind you, he's had the car for 12 years.
I'm too lazy to do that though. Just don't buy the *cheapest* aftermarket stuff or else there may be problems like poor fit and thin parts. I've suffered through this once.
These are basically the most expensive of the all the "aftermarket" parts - as compared to the other brands. Still significantly cheaper than Honda parts.
Mind you, OEM is the best quality ever.
Typically, they have "lifetime warranties". My buddie is on his third muffler for his civic and he just brings back the old one, shows the receipt, and they give him a new one. (Motorcade Auto Parts). Mind you, he's had the car for 12 years.
I'm too lazy to do that though. Just don't buy the *cheapest* aftermarket stuff or else there may be problems like poor fit and thin parts. I've suffered through this once.
22-Jul-2003, 03:10 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
I got 160,000km out of my original drums and shoes, the drumms were rusted bad around the edges at around 100,000km i just kept them goin with some sandpaper, wire brush and paint...After I replaced them at 160,000, I showed them to my brotherinlaw which certifies cars and he said he would of certified them...Now of course individual cases will differ, due to different brakeing habits, but my point is here that just like gatherer
said its the inside of the drum and the thickness of the shoes that really matter... If you want to check the insides, just make sure the parking brake is off, first try hitting them with a hammer to loosesn them, if that doesnt work there is 2 holes on the drumms, where you can insert a bolt, turn the bolts with a ratchet and it will back the drum off the hub...while you are in there check your cylenders for leaks, and do a general inspection...check the inner drum circumfrence to make sure its within max allowance..not sure of the number on the top of my head, call a dealer they will tell you...if its within allowance, sand and wire the **** out of it, repaint, reinstall...buy some brake cleaner to wash the components inside (springs leavers, shoes ect...)
said its the inside of the drum and the thickness of the shoes that really matter... If you want to check the insides, just make sure the parking brake is off, first try hitting them with a hammer to loosesn them, if that doesnt work there is 2 holes on the drumms, where you can insert a bolt, turn the bolts with a ratchet and it will back the drum off the hub...while you are in there check your cylenders for leaks, and do a general inspection...check the inner drum circumfrence to make sure its within max allowance..not sure of the number on the top of my head, call a dealer they will tell you...if its within allowance, sand and wire the **** out of it, repaint, reinstall...buy some brake cleaner to wash the components inside (springs leavers, shoes ect...)
22-Jul-2003, 03:14 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Posts: 3,657
yeah, I think mine are at the point where they can't machine them anymore. So now for the past 2 weeks at some speeds they are loud like a ************.
I'm trying to grab a GSR disk swap very soon.
I'm trying to grab a GSR disk swap very soon.
22-Jul-2003, 03:59 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
I was talked out of doing the rear disk conversion...I forget the reasoning, but the mechanic convinced me not to do it...some of the things were the effectiveness of them, and the pain of having more brake dust to clean off your rims...I just threw a new set of drums and shoes on, new fluid of course, stainless steel lines, and new drilled front rotors and CF / kevlar lined pads, my car stops on a dime, never get fade, total confidence...I couldnt ask for more, I love the setup
22-Jul-2003, 04:02 PM
#15
22-Jul-2003, 04:15 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
ok tnx bbarbulo
Your statement here backs up the guys reasoning for not doing the conversion, since its a street car not a racecar...but yah those GSRs do look perty Thanks for the info
Originally posted by bbarbulo
Drums in the back... not that big a deal, at least your rims in the back stay dust free They look bad, no doubt, but I have yet to see someone prove that they are ineffective. Sure, they retain a lot of heat, but in reality, they don't do enough work to warrant switching them out. For racing, ya, I'd do it just to have better ventilation and cooling, since it shares the fluid with the front brakes, but on the street they do their job very well.
Ok, I'm done now... I think.
Drums in the back... not that big a deal, at least your rims in the back stay dust free
They look bad, no doubt, but I have yet to see someone prove that they are ineffective. Sure, they retain a lot of heat, but in reality, they don't do enough work to warrant switching them out. For racing, ya, I'd do it just to have better ventilation and cooling, since it shares the fluid with the front brakes, but on the street they do their job very well.Ok, I'm done now... I think.
Thanks for the info
22-Jul-2003, 04:48 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Posts: 3,657
Originally posted by BoOsTZeX
ok tnx bbarbulo
Your statement here backs up the guys reasoning for not doing the conversion, since its a street car not a racecar...but yah those GSRs do look perty Thanks for the info
ok tnx bbarbulo
Your statement here backs up the guys reasoning for not doing the conversion, since its a street car not a racecar...but yah those GSRs do look perty
Thanks for the info
I'll readjust the brakes and the noise should disappear.
22-Jul-2003, 04:53 PM
#18
You guys want spare parts, you can have my old trailing arm assemblies off my 98 LX... everything attached, cables and all... about 100K kms on them all highway... $50 
my parents are bitchin about parts inventory building up 
my parents are bitchin about parts inventory building up
