Drum brake on the Track
20-Mar-2005, 07:31 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 228
Drum brake on the Track
I have a EG Civic with stock braking system, well I've only used RBF600 and Hawk HP+ for last year's track events, I felt that I might need more braking.I understand that most braking is at the front, but is it safe to run with overheated rear drums? My rear shoes are gone and I am planning to get some higher quality ones to replace with, will this solve the problem of overheat? Also what do you guys of the KVR stock size 4 piston Caliper? Thanks a lot.
21-Mar-2005, 03:44 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
As Digus88 stated Autocross and Track are completely different... however withg that stated...
1) remove your subs and stuff from your back make it as light as possible the lighter the rear end the less braking those drums have to do... they say 80% of the braking is done by the front brakes.. so I've never worried about them..
now when I autocross I pruposely have used the adjustments allowed to get the most out of my rear brakes. basically I use them for late braking /helping getting that rear end on my car to rotate. I've found a setup that witht he adjustments that works for me and is well balanced. will I share it? nope... why not? because what works for me won't work for everyone.
but heres the method I've used. At an autocross I'd jack up the rear of the car remove both rear wheels and the drums then I'd adjust the adjuster on each side ... then place the drum on. then I'd put the hand brake on 3 clicks. now I'd use a torque wrench and a nut on on of the studs. The Idea was to set the adjuster inside the drums to a certain foot/pounds of torque needed to over come the friction of the pads. I recommend starting 75 ft/lbs and going from there. (my number is different then that) then when you got it set on both sides take it for a run. don't like it? well change it ... reducingt he torque means they don't grab as hard as quickly increasing the torque used results in the rears grabbing earlier and harder. a twichy brake setup.
do I use a proper method? probably not. does it work for me? yes it does. is teh car consistent every time adjusted. yep.
Drums grab better then discs do. the issue is cooling. one thing I haven't done. but that you could do is drill holes int he backing plate to let air circulate. I actually have a design in my head at the moment for some drums and backing plates that are more open allowing air to circulate better.
as for track use I'll let you know at the end of my rookie solo 1 season right now I think I'll leave the brakes the way they are.
1) remove your subs and stuff from your back make it as light as possible the lighter the rear end the less braking those drums have to do... they say 80% of the braking is done by the front brakes.. so I've never worried about them..
now when I autocross I pruposely have used the adjustments allowed to get the most out of my rear brakes. basically I use them for late braking /helping getting that rear end on my car to rotate. I've found a setup that witht he adjustments that works for me and is well balanced. will I share it? nope... why not? because what works for me won't work for everyone.
but heres the method I've used. At an autocross I'd jack up the rear of the car remove both rear wheels and the drums then I'd adjust the adjuster on each side ... then place the drum on. then I'd put the hand brake on 3 clicks. now I'd use a torque wrench and a nut on on of the studs. The Idea was to set the adjuster inside the drums to a certain foot/pounds of torque needed to over come the friction of the pads. I recommend starting 75 ft/lbs and going from there. (my number is different then that) then when you got it set on both sides take it for a run. don't like it? well change it ... reducingt he torque means they don't grab as hard as quickly increasing the torque used results in the rears grabbing earlier and harder. a twichy brake setup.
do I use a proper method? probably not. does it work for me? yes it does. is teh car consistent every time adjusted. yep.
Drums grab better then discs do. the issue is cooling. one thing I haven't done. but that you could do is drill holes int he backing plate to let air circulate. I actually have a design in my head at the moment for some drums and backing plates that are more open allowing air to circulate better.
as for track use I'll let you know at the end of my rookie solo 1 season right now I think I'll leave the brakes the way they are.
23-Mar-2005, 12:02 PM
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Markham
Posts: 169
now I'd use a torque wrench and a nut on on of the studs. The Idea was to set the adjuster inside the drums to a certain foot/pounds of torque needed to over come the friction of the pads.
23-Mar-2005, 03:29 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
the studs.... the things the wheel sits on. I put the drum back on after usingt he adjuster put the hand brake on 3 clicks and see how much torque it takes to turn the thing. if it takes too much I back off the adjuster if it takes too little I increase the adjuster... all you need is a torque wrench and a nut on the stud to check torque required to turn the drum...
balances out the car well on the left to right side because you get the same torque amount at the same time applied on each drum when you brake. so there is no brake steer from the rear of the car.
balances out the car well on the left to right side because you get the same torque amount at the same time applied on each drum when you brake. so there is no brake steer from the rear of the car.
24-Mar-2005, 10:47 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
Originally posted by gatherer
As Digus88 stated Autocross and Track are completely different... however withg that stated...
1) remove your subs and stuff from your back make it as light as possible the lighter the rear end the less braking those drums have to do... they say 80% of the braking is done by the front brakes.. so I've never worried about them..
now when I autocross I pruposely have used the adjustments allowed to get the most out of my rear brakes. basically I use them for late braking /helping getting that rear end on my car to rotate. I've found a setup that witht he adjustments that works for me and is well balanced. will I share it? nope... why not? because what works for me won't work for everyone.
but heres the method I've used. At an autocross I'd jack up the rear of the car remove both rear wheels and the drums then I'd adjust the adjuster on each side ... then place the drum on. then I'd put the hand brake on 3 clicks. now I'd use a torque wrench and a nut on on of the studs. The Idea was to set the adjuster inside the drums to a certain foot/pounds of torque needed to over come the friction of the pads. I recommend starting 75 ft/lbs and going from there. (my number is different then that) then when you got it set on both sides take it for a run. don't like it? well change it ... reducingt he torque means they don't grab as hard as quickly increasing the torque used results in the rears grabbing earlier and harder. a twichy brake setup.
do I use a proper method? probably not. does it work for me? yes it does. is teh car consistent every time adjusted. yep.
Drums grab better then discs do. the issue is cooling. one thing I haven't done. but that you could do is drill holes int he backing plate to let air circulate. I actually have a design in my head at the moment for some drums and backing plates that are more open allowing air to circulate better.
as for track use I'll let you know at the end of my rookie solo 1 season right now I think I'll leave the brakes the way they are.
As Digus88 stated Autocross and Track are completely different... however withg that stated...
1) remove your subs and stuff from your back make it as light as possible the lighter the rear end the less braking those drums have to do... they say 80% of the braking is done by the front brakes.. so I've never worried about them..
now when I autocross I pruposely have used the adjustments allowed to get the most out of my rear brakes. basically I use them for late braking /helping getting that rear end on my car to rotate. I've found a setup that witht he adjustments that works for me and is well balanced. will I share it? nope... why not? because what works for me won't work for everyone.
but heres the method I've used. At an autocross I'd jack up the rear of the car remove both rear wheels and the drums then I'd adjust the adjuster on each side ... then place the drum on. then I'd put the hand brake on 3 clicks. now I'd use a torque wrench and a nut on on of the studs. The Idea was to set the adjuster inside the drums to a certain foot/pounds of torque needed to over come the friction of the pads. I recommend starting 75 ft/lbs and going from there. (my number is different then that) then when you got it set on both sides take it for a run. don't like it? well change it ... reducingt he torque means they don't grab as hard as quickly increasing the torque used results in the rears grabbing earlier and harder. a twichy brake setup.
do I use a proper method? probably not. does it work for me? yes it does. is teh car consistent every time adjusted. yep.
Drums grab better then discs do. the issue is cooling. one thing I haven't done. but that you could do is drill holes int he backing plate to let air circulate. I actually have a design in my head at the moment for some drums and backing plates that are more open allowing air to circulate better.
as for track use I'll let you know at the end of my rookie solo 1 season right now I think I'll leave the brakes the way they are.
only prob i can think of about the drilling thing is water entering the drums on wet days
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