DIY: Replacing rear wheel bearing w/ pics
13-May-2005, 11:58 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,506
DIY: Replacing rear wheel bearing w/ pics
Sup folks
Thought I'd take some pics and do a little write-up for everyone since I was doing it. Hope it helps.
This was done on my 1999 Honda Civic EX sedan and procedure may be similar for other generations of the civic.
Equipment Needed:
Stands
Jacks
Flat head screw driver
Hammer
19mm socket
32mm socket
Parts Needed:
Honda wheel bearing hub assembly
Honda Hub nut
Procedure:
Step 1: Loosen all 4 wheel bolts with the 19mm socket but do not remove bolts completely. Loosen them a bit so they can be removed after you jack the car up.
Step 2: Jack up the vehicle and place on stands. (Safety first!) Remove all 4 wheel bolts and wheel.
Step 3: Remove the drum. If you are having difficulty, you can try using a rubber hammer to loosen it or what others have suggested is beer. I personally prefer to drink the beer....
but you can also use two bolts to insert into the two holes available on drum to push the drum outwards. Luckly for me, mine comes off pretty easily thanks to anti-seize. 
NOTE: It would be a good time to check your pads to ensure braking efficiency.
Thought I'd take some pics and do a little write-up for everyone since I was doing it. Hope it helps.
This was done on my 1999 Honda Civic EX sedan and procedure may be similar for other generations of the civic.
Equipment Needed:
Stands
Jacks
Flat head screw driver
Hammer
19mm socket
32mm socket
Parts Needed:
Honda wheel bearing hub assembly
Honda Hub nut
Procedure:
Step 1: Loosen all 4 wheel bolts with the 19mm socket but do not remove bolts completely. Loosen them a bit so they can be removed after you jack the car up.
Step 2: Jack up the vehicle and place on stands. (Safety first!) Remove all 4 wheel bolts and wheel.
Step 3: Remove the drum. If you are having difficulty, you can try using a rubber hammer to loosen it or what others have suggested is beer. I personally prefer to drink the beer....
but you can also use two bolts to insert into the two holes available on drum to push the drum outwards. Luckly for me, mine comes off pretty easily thanks to anti-seize. NOTE: It would be a good time to check your pads to ensure braking efficiency.
13-May-2005, 11:59 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,506
Step 4: Remove plating that is covering the big golden nut. Screw driver is really handy here. I had difficulty with this one so I used a hammer to wedge the screw driver between the gap of the plating and hub.
Step 5: You should now see that magical golden nut and notice that a section is warped down. Its normal and you need to use the screw driver and hammer to wedge that bent back up. It will make removing the nut easier. It does not have to be perfect. Now use the 32mm socket to remove the nut.
Step 6: Now you should be able to see the washer, do not loose this since you will need to put it back. Now you can pull the wheel bearing hub assembly out. If you have difficulty because you are not as muscular as I am then you will need to use a screw driver to get it out.
Step 7: This is an extra step if you are unlucky like I am and you are stuck with the knuckle inside. To remove that knuckle was the hardest part for me since it would not budge. I had tried using a screw driver and other methods but found the torch to work best with the other end of a hammer.
(Not recommended but it worked)
This piece of S$%$ gave me one hell of time. If you've noticed the time between the last pic and this one then you will understand. lol
Step 8: Once everything is off it should look like the pic below. Now you can wipe off the old grease and slap on some new wheel bearing grease.
Step 9: Put everything back together in the reverse order and it should look something like this...
Step 10: Drink that beer you were planning to use on removing that drum with. LoL Heres a comparison below. Any one know what the outter piece with the teeth is for? I couldn't get it off and have no idea what its for. Also you can see the little ***** in this pic. Definitely not a good thing.
This information is to be used as a reference and I will not be held responsible for any damages/injuries caused by attempting this procedure. Use at your own discretion.
Step 5: You should now see that magical golden nut and notice that a section is warped down. Its normal and you need to use the screw driver and hammer to wedge that bent back up. It will make removing the nut easier. It does not have to be perfect. Now use the 32mm socket to remove the nut.
Step 6: Now you should be able to see the washer, do not loose this since you will need to put it back. Now you can pull the wheel bearing hub assembly out. If you have difficulty because you are not as muscular as I am then you will need to use a screw driver to get it out.
Step 7: This is an extra step if you are unlucky like I am and you are stuck with the knuckle inside. To remove that knuckle was the hardest part for me since it would not budge. I had tried using a screw driver and other methods but found the torch to work best with the other end of a hammer.
(Not recommended but it worked)This piece of S$%$ gave me one hell of time. If you've noticed the time between the last pic and this one then you will understand. lol
Step 8: Once everything is off it should look like the pic below. Now you can wipe off the old grease and slap on some new wheel bearing grease.
Step 9: Put everything back together in the reverse order and it should look something like this...
Step 10: Drink that beer you were planning to use on removing that drum with. LoL Heres a comparison below. Any one know what the outter piece with the teeth is for? I couldn't get it off and have no idea what its for. Also you can see the little ***** in this pic. Definitely not a good thing.
This information is to be used as a reference and I will not be held responsible for any damages/injuries caused by attempting this procedure. Use at your own discretion.
14-May-2005, 12:20 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 767
Did u forget to hammer the big nut backin with the screwdriver? u are supposed to do that if u haven't done so. U know the big nut with the gap on the lip. Aren't u supposed to hammer the lip back in, so it won't loosen it? Just to let u know.
14-May-2005, 12:28 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,881
Originally posted by D dot T
Regular price @ honda is $255 + tax
With membership discount it cost me $162 + tax
I decided to just stick w/ OEM because its quality I can trust and I didn't want to deal w/ aftermarket.
Regular price @ honda is $255 + tax
With membership discount it cost me $162 + tax
I decided to just stick w/ OEM because its quality I can trust and I didn't want to deal w/ aftermarket.
