dingus8

oh ya and zex is garbage for what yoru lookign for...get a nx or nos wet kit......a gsr girdle is a very good idea if yoru going for na power (high rpms) with forged pistons and rods with a girdle and a sleeved block that b20 shoudl be bullet proof till 10,000 rpm's. Mind you 9500 woudl be mroe than enough with some jun 3's are toda c's

think of this setup by chance: more "cheapo"
b20 block posted and honed
itr pistons
shot peened rods
itr cams
gsr girdle
mild p$p on head
tuning with afc and 290 injectors
shoudl be 200 whp easy with some tuing

or a b18 block with thicker sleeves with the setup stated above


find a burnt b18c and strip it of parts


if you jsut want a no flash (so you can say ls/vtec or crvet to make the ricers cream their jeans) narly setup then just save alto of your cash and just build up a beat b18b and slap soem "spray" till you get a turbo

9.5 : 1 pistons
eagle rods or crower yada yada
put together right woudl be good

imported_SW20 MR2

Just for clarification, I wasn't suggesting you run 10:1. I was just trying to illustrate a point. Regardless, if you are running 15-20psi, I certainly hope you will be running a standalone.

Decide what you want to do first (NA or FI) and go from there. You will spend/waste a lot of money by being indecisive (been there, done that).

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

bad bad bad idea... electronic devices have massive spikes cuz the motors are pretty slow... most guys that run electronic boost control also run a MBC that is set at their max spike tolerence, so if the elec controller spikes, the manual one is there as a safeguard... speaking of safeguard, look into a J&S Safeguard... this will be a necessity with what you are trying to do.

imported_BoOsTd

OK the SafeGuard will remove timing from individual cylinders to remove detonation... good to know .... So this will bacically allow for more agessive tuning while maintaining a more reliable engine, hence preventing damage to engine parts from detonation, preignition, engine knock in general...

And so the Manual boost controller will be there set at just below you max boost setting.??.. Well haveing the MBC there just makes the electronic device an ad on novelty bacically... Ill just stick with a manual controller...



Im going to start hunting for my block next week... you guys have me contemplateing the bord out b18 now... The only problem i find in that, I would want a highmilage one, which will likely be older than my car...which is illegal no? finding a cheap beater b18 97 and up might be a challenge...

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

be patient in your search. older swaps are illegal in california, I don't think that's the case here in Canada.

well, the EBC would allow you to change between street and race modes, while the MBC would prevent spikes and be set just below the threashold tolerence for spikes on your level of tuning. The EBC allows for some pretty savage spikes... like you could have it set at 15, but it'll spike to 20 at times that's quite easily the diff between winning and spilling internals onto the asphalt. In that case the MBC would be set at about say 16-17, so if you do spike to 20, the wastegate will still open at 16-17 despite the slow reaction of the EBC.