imported_silver_devil79

I need better cooling on my engine- what can i do- will a new performance rad do (stock size) - 92 civic - or will i have to get my airconditioner out in order to put a bigger rad in

also will a new bigger fan work-

I really dont want to modify the hood or get a new front bumper with more of an open area to let the air in.

Nova_Dust

Many good aftermarket radiators, C&R, Fluidyne, Koyo, ARC... etc.

If you want a full size one, you can try Integra radiators then attach AC behind next to the fan (ITR is a full size one, right?). If AC is of no concern, then you can get a 55mm dual core radiator if you like.

Reduce heat is always a good idea. At least I think that way.

imported_silver_devil79

can I just put a duel layer in without going to the full size and a fan- how will it decrease my cooling

I guess I was running the car for half an hour on the day when temp was 24 degrees and I was giving it to her for a good 20 minutes- at high revs and I noticed my heat gauge going up over the half way mark- once It hit 3/4 - driving 115 km/h for another 3 minutes or so - I put it in neutral and I seen the arrow drop down to half again and then I was home.

Nova_Dust

You mean a thin dual layer? But you need a fan regardless right? If you want non OEM fans, the ones with lighter fins, then you should mount it in the front, acting like a pusher rather than a puller.

Also, get a 1.35 Bar cap, to increase pressure. I believe higher pressure makes it harder to boil the water, raising the boiling point will make your car take more time to reach that point.

imported_silver_devil79

- putting the fan on the front - never heard of it- learn something new everyday.--- so put the fan on the front and no fan in the back - or should i put one in the front and one in the back

how come then stock cars put the fans in the back - why wouldnt they just put it on the front if it increase cooling?

Nova_Dust

Stock fans are not thin lighter aluminum fan. OEM fan has enough power to pull the air in to keep the car working at the correct temp. with minimum standard - meaning, it wasn't meant for performance, it was meant to keep the car working under daily condition.

Performance radiator fans, the ones using aluminum thin fins (to reduce weight or whatever?) don't pull air as hard as OEM ones. So in order to make up lack of pulling effect, you place it in the front to act as a pusher. I believe that's what I read in the book.

Now having 1 pusher and 1 puller, I am not sure if that's necessary.

imported_Cablerat

why do you need more cooling?

Stock motor?

If the guage is going over 50% then you probably got a problem with the thermostat.

I got an h22 with a STOCK CIVIC RAD and FAN, the thing runs just fine. In 30+ Celcius temperatures and rush hour traffic, the fan comes on quite a bit, but the heat guage still always stays below 50%

imported_silver_devil79

my engine runs on higher temp

i wouldnt be needing cooling upgrades on a stock motor now would I



9000 rpm readline also adds more heat to the formula- whats the redline on an h22- 8000 plus you dont have to rev it so high due to higher torque- on the highway to get good results i need to rev the **** out of it. at 100 to get it to move - but it does move

scarlemthug

go get yourself a del sol dual core rad (stock civic width) and drop that into ur car.....should help out. The stock fans are fine, there only there really when the car is idling so that the air around the rad isnt stagnant.

imported_silver_devil79

what will be the difference in cooling - is there a ratio or a measurement cooling is measured in

do you know what each rad can support in terms of cooling and what temperature will it cool down.

scarlemthug

the dual core rad has double the surface area for cooling and the coolant has to travel through both cores meaning it will cool down alot more before re-entering the engine so your temps stay lower.

Go to one of these jap used auto parts places and ask them for a dual core Del Sol radiator, should only be about $130 brand new........un-install ur old one (drain fluid, undo clamps for hoses, unbolt rad). Then install the new one with your old fan attached to the back, connect all the hoses up and fill her up with some new coolant, run the car for 2 fan cycles and then shut the car off and burp the upper rad hose.

imported_silver_devil79

thank you

i will do it probably next week.

then we will test it out and see - if still not good enough I guess I will just cut a whole out in my hood

scarlemthug

I had the same problem tuesday night with my B18, the temp gauge started going above half and then i remembered i had the stock eg rad in there.

imported_silver_devil79

b18 - type r?

type r's run a little hotter- and are a little hotter-

imported_Cablerat

UHh if you say so..

So is your RAD fan usually always on?

imported_silver_devil79

tell you the truth - i didnt even check- maybe I should - latly i have been busy with school and work- and now im too lazy to do anything- so much work to do in the spring around the house - - I will check this weekend when I am clean the inside crap out of my car

scarlemthug

no just a little b18b1

scarlemthug

you should go do a hard run on the highway and see if your engine temp goes above 1/2. Id guess yes with the warm air and an actual stock civic rad.

imported_silver_devil79

b18b1


turbo?

imported_Cablerat

Reason I say that is if your car moves past like 40% on the guage, the thermostat has to open up and the cooling fan comes on to force air thru the rad to help cool the coolant faster.

And since your crazy high performance engine runs so hot, that would mean your car is constantly struggling to cool your engine down, which would result in the cooling fan being on.