imported_italstallion

hey,im swapping my d16-t in a couple of months with a brand new clutchmasters stage 3 kevlar clutch and pressure plate,so right away im getting it towed to an exhaust shop and they will be doing s.s mandrel bent 3 inch all the way back high flow cat and muffler also e-cutout i just wanted to know how is it possible that i drive it for 1000 kms(which the breakin period states)without the car being tuned at all??? because when i bring it to the dyno i dont want to bring the clutch to redline and such,but then again i dont want to drive a untuned motor and blow it so how do i go about doing this???

kwikb16a2

i've never been to a dyno before but dont they jus top out one gear?? so u dont need to shift at redline, somebody correct me if im wrong im jus assuming

imported_italstallion

thats what i thought too im not exactly sure tho.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

nova dust is right, when on the dyno they only wind out 4th gear. They won't rev your engine past 4,000 in 1st, 2nd or 3rd and after they do a pull in 4th they will push the clutch in a put it in neutral.
Or you could just have them just tune the maps up to 5,000rpms or so, if your that worried about taking past 5,000 before its broken in. But this means that you would have to go back and pay for another tuing session.

imported_italstallion

umm that wasn't nova_dust lol finally your not right in something hahah yeah i just called erik at teknotik and he said i can bring in my ecu and they can make a bas map for me with more fuel so i dont lean it out but he said they only take it high in 4'th gear so there wont be any high redline shifting.thanks guys

kwikb16a2

wow im asian

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

lol...why the hell did i put nova dust?!?!?!?
I must be on glue.
Sorry kwikb16a2.
Italstallion:
Be careful with just a basemap. Because it is just an educated guess. Running lean is bad, real bad, but so is running too rich. Especially on new piston rings trying to seat properly. It sure would suck having to tear that engine down in a year b/c you've got a huge amount of blow by or bad compression.
If you're running too rich you take the chance of washing out the rings and them not seating properly.
I wouldn't be scared to take it to the dyno for some tuning right away. If you ask me, its cheaper to replace a clutch that didn't quite break in right than it is an engine. I'd be more concerned about running extremely lean/rich more than the clutch not breaking in right from 10 or so full-throttle dyno runs.
Whats the setup? turbo size? injectors? engine specs?

imported_italstallion

the motors a d16z6 140,000 kms its got clutchmasters stage 3 clutch pressure plate,resurfaced stock flywheel,ARP headstuds,(looking for a thicker headgasket)HF mani with adapter plate bolted to a garret gt17 .53 the injectors are the SI injectors but they were sent out to get rebuilt and push more fuel but the seller wasnt sure how many cc's they pushed so i might get some 450 dsm's also thinking about uprading the fuel pump to a 190 or 255 lph but i hear oem pumps are fine until like 300 whp.

chris_si98

oem pumps are good up to 250whp apparently but thats pushing it. I would upgrade around 230whp just to be cautious.

i'd get dsm 450's tune with whatever program (uber/crome/hondata). In order for the 450's to work you need a resistor pack or a 10ohm resistor on each wire that leads to the ecu on the injector (the black/yellow wire)

cee_mon

For headgasket....Isnt the OEM d16y8 one abit thicker?
But OEM d16z6 would be my choice for that power range.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

you will be fine with just a basemap then. But make sure to tell the guy who makes the basemap if you're using DSM injectors b/c he will need to make the necessary adjustments.

imported_italstallion

i called teknotik today and spoke to erik im just going to get it towed there to be on the safe side.but im still wondering which headgasket to get like any big brand names that deal with that ive heard of cometic b4 but never really looked into it.