Changing trailing arms
21-Jun-2005, 05:03 PM
#1
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Changing trailing arms
I'm going to be following the Haynes Repair Manual when changing my trailing arms. Any further tips and things I should watch out for would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
21-Jun-2005, 05:19 PM
#3
just get an alignment right after, cuz your toe is almost guaranteed to be whacky. I shredded a pair of rear tires with one trip to london. after the trip my whole rear bumper was covered in tire dust from bad toe in.
21-Jun-2005, 05:44 PM
#4
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here is my problem: i snapped off the lower control arm to trailing arm bolt. would i need to remove that huge nut near the top of the pic to completely remove both of the arms? if so what socket size do i need to remove that nut?
21-Jun-2005, 08:39 PM
#5
don't make more work for yourself. just cut off the other side of that broken bolt and remove the trailing arm, then burn that bushing out and press in a new bushing and install your new trailing arm.
21-Jun-2005, 08:41 PM
#6
oh and if you wanna remove both the trailing arm and the rear lower control arm as an assembly, you have to remove the shock bolt, then the LCA to subframe bolt and then then the upper control arm, the two bolts around the big bushing on the trailing arm, and finally that lil front arm right at the very front of the trailing arm (I think it's called a compensator arm, but I'm not certain)
21-Jun-2005, 08:56 PM
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don't make more work for yourself. just cut off the other side of that broken bolt and remove the trailing arm, then burn that bushing out and press in a new bushing and install your new trailing arm.
21-Jun-2005, 09:14 PM
#8
the nut is welded to the trailing arm, and since you are replacing that part anyways, you can just cut it off with a cutoff wheel (like an angle grinder) and then do a lil drilling, and that'll relieve the trailing arm of the control arm. then all that's left to do is to remove the bushing from the trailing arm so you can bolt the new trailing arm on.
21-Jun-2005, 09:33 PM
#9
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i bought a new lca too. sorry, should have told u this before. i don't have a grinder either. probably better off following your other advice, eh?
oh and if you wanna remove both the trailing arm and the rear lower control arm as an assembly, you have to remove the shock bolt, then the LCA to subframe bolt and then then the upper control arm, the two bolts around the big bushing on the trailing arm, and finally that lil front arm right at the very front of the trailing arm (I think it's called a compensator arm, but I'm not certain)
22-Jun-2005, 02:36 PM
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ran into a problem. how the heck do you get the cap for the hub off?????? there is maybe a half a millimeter (maybe not even) of gap for you to pry at using a fine screw driver or chisel into but the sucker doesn't want to give.
22-Jun-2005, 02:44 PM
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Originally posted by Si98
ran into a problem. how the heck do you get the cap for the hub off?????? there is maybe a half a millimeter (maybe not even) of gap for you to pry at using a fine screw driver or chisel into but the sucker doesn't want to give.
ran into a problem. how the heck do you get the cap for the hub off?????? there is maybe a half a millimeter (maybe not even) of gap for you to pry at using a fine screw driver or chisel into but the sucker doesn't want to give.
Use some penetrating fluid around the edge of the cap. Let it soak in a few times and that should free up any rust from the OD of the cap.
With a chisel and a hammer(wear safety glasses) put the chisel in the small void between the hub face and cap, grasp hard and hit the chisel(not nails or fingers) with a hammer. You might have to work your way around the cap to free it up before it takes it's sweet time coming out. Good luck.
22-Jun-2005, 02:51 PM
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dang, looks like the wheels are going back on for a drive to canadian tire. i have everything in my tool box BUT a chisel. i also forgot to buy some high temperature grease for the drums too so may as well kill two birds with one stone.
22-Jun-2005, 05:15 PM
#19
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i'm just replacing the lca and trailing arm because the bushings went bad on both. for all the work i'm going through maybe it might have been a good idea changing over to discs.
by the way, do you torque down the bolts connecting the brake hose to the cylinder? the manual gave a specification but i don't think my torque wrench tightens down that low.
by the way, do you torque down the bolts connecting the brake hose to the cylinder? the manual gave a specification but i don't think my torque wrench tightens down that low.
22-Jun-2005, 05:31 PM
#20
I don't see how you could torque it... a socket won't fit over the line. but if your torque wrench doesnt go that low, you need another torque wrench, in inch-lb. I have both ft-lbs and inch-lbs, the certainly come in handy.
but no, I don't torque the lines, I just snug them up enough so they don't leak.
but no, I don't torque the lines, I just snug them up enough so they don't leak.
