Civic Forumz - Honda Civic Forum

Civic Forumz - Honda Civic Forum (https://www.civicforumz.com/)
-   Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion (https://www.civicforumz.com/honda-civic-performance-jdm-discussion-14/)
-   -   Cars dont swim :( (https://www.civicforumz.com/honda-civic-performance-jdm-discussion-14/cars-dont-swim-676/)

spyker 07-Oct-2007 05:37 PM

Cars dont swim :(
 
ok, well i was driving yesterday at like 2 in the moring and i was turning into a mcdonalds parking lot area, and the road was fludded, i didnt see the puddle and i went right into it. It ended up being a foot deep and my cold air sucked it up. so now im kinda ****ed.

Whats my next step, i have taken the spark plugs out, sucked all the water out of the pistons. Drained oil, i rented a compressor to push any more water out, last night with my dad i was able to get it to semi crank once with the water sucked out and no plugs in. so thats hte first step its not seised. But what else should i do.

Im grateful for any help or suggestions at all. Im trying to go the least amount of money possible way. By that i mean trying to keep the engine

(update)... well i took the starter off to make sure it wasnt fried, it works fine but the crank wont turn. I think mabey something is jaming it. Or worst case is i bent a rod.....


The CAI is gone, im cutting it so its a RAM intake 100%.

So i guess i have to take the head off to see what the problem is?

If a rod is bent or something sevre, is it worth it to fix, or should i just go find another engine.

Its a EG hatch with d15. Cold air, lowerd and exhaust.

Thanks, Sean

bananax 07-Oct-2007 09:37 PM

I thought hydrolocking meant dead engine?


Originally Posted by WIKI
In automotive terminology, a hydrolock (short for hydraulic lock) is the immobilization of an engine's pistons by a liquid (usually water, hence the prefix "hydro-"). Hydrolocking occurs when liquid fills a cylinder on the intake stroke and, due to the incompressibility of a liquid, makes the compression stroke impossible. This, in turn, prevents the entire engine from turning, and can cause significant engine damage if one attempts to forcibly turn over or start the engine. Typically, connecting rods will be bent, making the engine uneconomical to repair.


kingjames1983 07-Oct-2007 10:02 PM

second car I heard of with this problem after that storm
cold air intakes suck for just this reason

kIeRaN 08-Oct-2007 10:03 AM

dont waste your time, find another d15 on this boad and put er in. Your engine is toast. and d15s are cheap

SickoEL 08-Oct-2007 10:51 AM

yeah engine is noooo good..

chris_v2 29-Oct-2007 04:26 PM

prob. bent a rod.

itrT 06-Mar-2008 12:30 AM


Originally Posted by kIeRaN (Post 16379)
dont waste your time, find another d15 on this boad and put er in. Your engine is toast. and d15s are cheap

Or upgrade :eyebrows:

Trybal 18-Mar-2008 05:51 PM

shhitay...just like a boat..if it's still running when it sinks, it's done

im hacking the cold air too...too much annoyance

bbarbulo 06-Apr-2008 01:32 AM

ok the easy way would be having access to a long ass vernier you can just shove down the spark plug holes and measure from the valve cover edge to the pistons and see if a rod is bent. if you don't have this, try the following:

with the plugs out, take 2 LONG peices of wood dowel, make sure they are of equal length (sand them perfectly flush). drop the wood dowels into the spark plug holes (make sure they are LONG ENOUGH!!! to not drop into the cylinders never to be retrieved again). use a digital angle finder on your valve cover to determine the angle of your engine. then use a construction square to connect the two peices of wood dowel (make sure they're perfectly vertical) and use the angle finder to see if the angle reading is different from the engine. if it is, you have a bent rod. keep in mind cyls 1 and 4 (I THINK, DOUBLE CHECK!!!!) move together and should be equal height, and 2 and 3 move together (again, I think!). If you don't have a digital angle finder, but your garage floor is really really close to level, then you can use a 6 foot construction level to connect the peices of dowel, and measure from the construction level to the floor on the left side of the car, and then on the right. The two should be the same.

blacksol4life 28-Nov-2008 12:25 PM

can someone tell me what he just said

J-SKI 28-Nov-2008 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by bbarbulo (Post 71150)
ok the easy way would be having access to a long ass vernier you can just shove down the spark plug holes and measure from the valve cover edge to the pistons and see if a rod is bent. if you don't have this, try the following:

with the plugs out, take 2 LONG peices of wood dowel, make sure they are of equal length (sand them perfectly flush). drop the wood dowels into the spark plug holes (make sure they are LONG ENOUGH!!! to not drop into the cylinders never to be retrieved again). use a digital angle finder on your valve cover to determine the angle of your engine. then use a construction square to connect the two peices of wood dowel (make sure they're perfectly vertical) and use the angle finder to see if the angle reading is different from the engine. if it is, you have a bent rod. keep in mind cyls 1 and 4 (I THINK, DOUBLE CHECK!!!!) move together and should be equal height, and 2 and 3 move together (again, I think!). If you don't have a digital angle finder, but your garage floor is really really close to level, then you can use a 6 foot construction level to connect the peices of dowel, and measure from the construction level to the floor on the left side of the car, and then on the right. The two should be the same.

wow....that was overwhleming...i need to go rest for a bit now...my brain is overworked

TroubEL 28-Nov-2008 01:39 PM

Same happened to me in the right lane under a bridge during a 0 visibility evening rainstorm this past summer. Traffic lights had malfunctioned & I had to drive in the right lane through a much deeper puddle with inadequate drainage; the depth had been impossible to estimate.

A full engine replacement was the only cost-effective solution. Repair would have been over $2000, while swapping in a low-mileage JDM D15b was just over half of that (parts + labour). Car now drives like new & if I ever have another cold-air intake installed, there certainly will be a bypass valve.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:22 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands