Car won't start.....
19-Jun-2007, 05:37 PM
#21
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Originally posted by -cj-
Pardon my ignorance, but if I had a problem with my plugs or distry, would the car start up and drive fine for 1hr after a push start? Not being a smart ***, just trying to rule out the plugs or disty before I get my hands dirty again
Pardon my ignorance, but if I had a problem with my plugs or distry, would the car start up and drive fine for 1hr after a push start? Not being a smart ***, just trying to rule out the plugs or disty before I get my hands dirty again
where u located?
if you had a problem with your distributor the symptoms can range from intermediate miss to a no start situation. But it really sounds like you need some help troubleshooting dude (no offense)
19-Jun-2007, 11:37 PM
#22
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Absolutely.. I def could use some assistance with troubleshooting 
I'm at 401 & Keele area... I'd gladly accept any assistance... This is driving me nuts.
I was reading a checklist and came across this:
2. Does the car eventually start, or act like it’s trying to start? Is the problem especially bad after the car has sat overnight, or on a cold day? This is likely your ECT (Coolant Temperature Sensor). The ECT is the first sensor the ECU looks at when you start your car. The ECU asks it "How cold is it outside today?" and the Temp Sensor responds. The ECU takes that information and decides how much fuel to send to the injectors. If your ECT is faulty, the ECU will either get an incorrect reading back, or no reading at all, and will stay in open-loop, dumping fuel into your cylinders, making your car excessively hard (or impossible in some cases) to start.
I'm not sure of how to check the ECT on our cars, perhaps you have a haynes to refer to on this one.
-- The engine bay smells of fuel after a few attempts at starting it. There's even some unburnt gas by the TB, but that could be normal in this situation... Waste of time or should I look into a possible ECT problem?
I'm at 401 & Keele area... I'd gladly accept any assistance... This is driving me nuts.I was reading a checklist and came across this:
2. Does the car eventually start, or act like it’s trying to start? Is the problem especially bad after the car has sat overnight, or on a cold day? This is likely your ECT (Coolant Temperature Sensor). The ECT is the first sensor the ECU looks at when you start your car. The ECU asks it "How cold is it outside today?" and the Temp Sensor responds. The ECU takes that information and decides how much fuel to send to the injectors. If your ECT is faulty, the ECU will either get an incorrect reading back, or no reading at all, and will stay in open-loop, dumping fuel into your cylinders, making your car excessively hard (or impossible in some cases) to start.
I'm not sure of how to check the ECT on our cars, perhaps you have a haynes to refer to on this one.
-- The engine bay smells of fuel after a few attempts at starting it. There's even some unburnt gas by the TB, but that could be normal in this situation... Waste of time or should I look into a possible ECT problem?
20-Jun-2007, 12:25 PM
#23
i missed the part about it cranking but not starting, after reading that i belive it is proly spark as well. How do the plugs, cap and rotor look? is there spark at the plugs/dizzy? any miss fire?
21-Jun-2007, 02:19 AM
#27
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Hey guys, thanks for all the support. I was starting to realize today that I might have had two separate incidents (Which I think is what you guys are also implying)... Having to push start the car (and having it work) could have been completely unrelated to my current issue (even if it was only a day apart). I haven't tried push starting the car since (Will try this weekend when my gf is over), but I have a feeling it won't work this time.
I pulled the plugs today while doing other stuff at home and they all seem to have some oil on them :/ #3 and #4 were especially bad. I replaced the head gasket last year and put at least 10,000 km on it since without any issues.. I'm going to try to clean the plugs with brake cleaner and see if they spark...
The disty looks relatively new... I don't know much of the car's history, but when I pulled the cap off everything seemed okay. Didn't have a chance to throw a meter on any of it yet tho. The plugs distracted me...
I pulled the plugs today while doing other stuff at home and they all seem to have some oil on them :/ #3 and #4 were especially bad. I replaced the head gasket last year and put at least 10,000 km on it since without any issues.. I'm going to try to clean the plugs with brake cleaner and see if they spark...
The disty looks relatively new... I don't know much of the car's history, but when I pulled the cap off everything seemed okay. Didn't have a chance to throw a meter on any of it yet tho. The plugs distracted me...
22-Jun-2007, 04:35 PM
#29
a quick way to check your spark at the plugs is to start the car and go through them one by one unhooking the wire from the plug one at a time. if you unplug one and it doesn't make the engine run worse then that cylinder is likley the problem.
23-Jun-2007, 12:34 AM
#31
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Originally posted by chris_v2
you can still have weak spark at all cylinders. That method only works if you have a dead cylinder.
But his car doesnt even start so how is he suppose to start it?
you can still have weak spark at all cylinders. That method only works if you have a dead cylinder.
But his car doesnt even start so how is he suppose to start it?
23-Jun-2007, 01:02 AM
#32
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Well I have more news...
I tested each spark plug while my buddy cranked the car. There was a spark on each plug -- I can't tell if it's a weak spark or what, but it sparked either way.
I then had my buddy push the car while I attempted to bump start it... But no go. The car refused to start this time. My buddy primed the pump and I heard it whirring in the fuel tank.. I can smell fuel in the engine bay area after each failed attempt at starting it. I'm going to test for fuel tomorrow... I hope it's something simple.
I picked up a compression tester at CT just in case... :/ My buddy warned me that I could end up hydrolocking my motor on gas if I'm not careful... I hope he was exaggerating a little
I tested each spark plug while my buddy cranked the car. There was a spark on each plug -- I can't tell if it's a weak spark or what, but it sparked either way.
I then had my buddy push the car while I attempted to bump start it... But no go. The car refused to start this time. My buddy primed the pump and I heard it whirring in the fuel tank.. I can smell fuel in the engine bay area after each failed attempt at starting it. I'm going to test for fuel tomorrow... I hope it's something simple.
I picked up a compression tester at CT just in case... :/ My buddy warned me that I could end up hydrolocking my motor on gas if I'm not careful... I hope he was exaggerating a little
23-Jun-2007, 07:17 AM
#33
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Originally posted by oL Dusty
a quick way to check your spark at the plugs is to start the car and go through them one by one unhooking the wire from the plug one at a time. if you unplug one and it doesn't make the engine run worse then that cylinder is likley the problem.
a quick way to check your spark at the plugs is to start the car and go through them one by one unhooking the wire from the plug one at a time. if you unplug one and it doesn't make the engine run worse then that cylinder is likley the problem.
Originally posted by bananax
check it while someone cranks it?
check it while someone cranks it?
goodluck with that.
and CJ.. you are def. getting fuel if you can smell it. What colour was the spark? YOu may have weak spark... but with weak spark it usually starts and runs really rough, but occasionally it doesnt start what so ever.
Maybe the timing is off.. maybe your timing belt jumped a few teeth or snapped. Check to see if your rotor is spinning while someone cranks the car.
23-Jun-2007, 09:10 AM
#34
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Spark was white, very thin line... But honestly, I have nothing to compare it to, so I don't know what a normal spark should look like. I'll check to see if the rotor is spinning, but I checked all 4 plugs yesterday, so I assume it should be spinning? Belt looks good as well, but it's possible it jumped... although the car was running perfectly fine before this --- no missfiring, etc.
23-Jun-2007, 02:21 PM
#36
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Originally posted by -cj-
Spark was white, very thin line... But honestly, I have nothing to compare it to, so I don't know what a normal spark should look like. I'll check to see if the rotor is spinning, but I checked all 4 plugs yesterday, so I assume it should be spinning? Belt looks good as well, but it's possible it jumped... although the car was running perfectly fine before this --- no missfiring, etc.
Spark was white, very thin line... But honestly, I have nothing to compare it to, so I don't know what a normal spark should look like. I'll check to see if the rotor is spinning, but I checked all 4 plugs yesterday, so I assume it should be spinning? Belt looks good as well, but it's possible it jumped... although the car was running perfectly fine before this --- no missfiring, etc.
Was the spark very bright or dull? It really sounds like you need to just bring it to a shop man.
23-Jun-2007, 11:42 PM
#37
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All u people in here trying to fix the guys car. U can't fix cars over the internet. U need to actually check and diagnose. For sure is not your starter if it cranks. 100% not your starter if it cranks. Do u have a meter? Put to ohms to the 20 scale. Check to see if u have around 12.6 to the battery. Should be close to there. If not charge it up before u start cranking or put a booster on it. U said that your spark plugs have oil in them. That means that the valve cover gasket and the spark plug o ring should be changed. That's an easy job to change. Clean all the plugs and use a lighter to burn all the fuel away on the plugs if u smell gas on the plugs. How big is the gap on the plugs. If it is big, just buy a set of plugs. They are cheap. Check for spark. If there is spark then u should be fine. It should be stong enough i think for the spark. Check the rotor if u are not sure. U said there is fuel. When u put the key on u should hear the fuel pump. If that's okay then u dun have a fuel problem. U can also loose the fuel line a little bit and tell someone to crank for 1 sec and if u see fuel coming out, u know the fuel is functioning. Does it crank really slow? I don;t think your timing belt snapped because u told us your car started and then shut off or something. Anyways in order to check that. The best is have someone to crank it and then open the oil cap. Crank for like 2-3 sec. U should see the engine cranking and moving. Like the internal of the stuff is moving. If not then u might have a broken timing belt. I doubt that is your problem. Check every step i tell u. I'm sure u can find out your problem now. Anyways if u follow my steps your car should be diagnose very soon. If u listen to some of those guys, u are just guessing and not finding your problems. Good luck
24-Jun-2007, 01:02 AM
#38
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,745
Originally posted by winner007
All u people in here trying to fix the guys car. U can't fix cars over the internet. U need to actually check and diagnose. For sure is not your starter if it cranks. 100% not your starter if it cranks. Do u have a meter? Put to ohms to the 20 scale. Check to see if u have around 12.6 to the battery. Should be close to there. If not charge it up before u start cranking or put a booster on it. U said that your spark plugs have oil in them. That means that the valve cover gasket and the spark plug o ring should be changed. That's an easy job to change. Clean all the plugs and use a lighter to burn all the fuel away on the plugs if u smell gas on the plugs. How big is the gap on the plugs. If it is big, just buy a set of plugs. They are cheap. Check for spark. If there is spark then u should be fine. It should be stong enough i think for the spark. Check the rotor if u are not sure. U said there is fuel. When u put the key on u should hear the fuel pump. If that's okay then u dun have a fuel problem. U can also loose the fuel line a little bit and tell someone to crank for 1 sec and if u see fuel coming out, u know the fuel is functioning. Does it crank really slow? I don;t think your timing belt snapped because u told us your car started and then shut off or something. Anyways in order to check that. The best is have someone to crank it and then open the oil cap. Crank for like 2-3 sec. U should see the engine cranking and moving. Like the internal of the stuff is moving. If not then u might have a broken timing belt. I doubt that is your problem. Check every step i tell u. I'm sure u can find out your problem now. Anyways if u follow my steps your car should be diagnose very soon. If u listen to some of those guys, u are just guessing and not finding your problems. Good luck
All u people in here trying to fix the guys car. U can't fix cars over the internet. U need to actually check and diagnose. For sure is not your starter if it cranks. 100% not your starter if it cranks. Do u have a meter? Put to ohms to the 20 scale. Check to see if u have around 12.6 to the battery. Should be close to there. If not charge it up before u start cranking or put a booster on it. U said that your spark plugs have oil in them. That means that the valve cover gasket and the spark plug o ring should be changed. That's an easy job to change. Clean all the plugs and use a lighter to burn all the fuel away on the plugs if u smell gas on the plugs. How big is the gap on the plugs. If it is big, just buy a set of plugs. They are cheap. Check for spark. If there is spark then u should be fine. It should be stong enough i think for the spark. Check the rotor if u are not sure. U said there is fuel. When u put the key on u should hear the fuel pump. If that's okay then u dun have a fuel problem. U can also loose the fuel line a little bit and tell someone to crank for 1 sec and if u see fuel coming out, u know the fuel is functioning. Does it crank really slow? I don;t think your timing belt snapped because u told us your car started and then shut off or something. Anyways in order to check that. The best is have someone to crank it and then open the oil cap. Crank for like 2-3 sec. U should see the engine cranking and moving. Like the internal of the stuff is moving. If not then u might have a broken timing belt. I doubt that is your problem. Check every step i tell u. I'm sure u can find out your problem now. Anyways if u follow my steps your car should be diagnose very soon. If u listen to some of those guys, u are just guessing and not finding your problems. Good luck
what the hell are you talking about???? Checking the resistance of the battery has fawk all to do with it lol
24-Jun-2007, 10:08 AM
#39
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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winner007.. you shouldnt be giving advise. I know your trying to help, but if CJ actually listened to you, he'd be an idiot.
I stopped reading after you said "if the gap is too big, buy a new set of plugs"
right..
Honestly CJ, sounds like you have weak spark. Try a friends dizzy. A quick test to see if you have weak spark is to double or triple the gap of a spark plug (old one) and check to see if the spark jumps that gap. If it does.. you dont have weak spark, if it does, you have weak spark.
I stopped reading after you said "if the gap is too big, buy a new set of plugs"
right..
Honestly CJ, sounds like you have weak spark. Try a friends dizzy. A quick test to see if you have weak spark is to double or triple the gap of a spark plug (old one) and check to see if the spark jumps that gap. If it does.. you dont have weak spark, if it does, you have weak spark.
24-Jun-2007, 10:22 AM
#40
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 767
Check to see if the battery is low or not. The battery should not be under 12.6 when starting. If the gaps is big, u can use a spark plug gap and gap them, but seriously if u do it properly just buy a set of ngk plugs. They are like $20 for a set. Why cheap out.
