Car Shakes when stoping
#1
Car Shakes when stoping
It happend again today. This is the 2nd time since summer it happend.
I was driving along, and I started to break because it was a red light in front. I hardly ever break hard, since I start breaking so far away, so I put my foot lightly on the brake, and when I was slowing down, the car shook a bit, almost like the motor was dropping below the lowest rpms (automatic car) and was gonna stall, but never did.
After I accelerated again it was fine and hasn't happend since. This is only the 2nd time it happend since summer?
I was driving along, and I started to break because it was a red light in front. I hardly ever break hard, since I start breaking so far away, so I put my foot lightly on the brake, and when I was slowing down, the car shook a bit, almost like the motor was dropping below the lowest rpms (automatic car) and was gonna stall, but never did.
After I accelerated again it was fine and hasn't happend since. This is only the 2nd time it happend since summer?
#4
Dunno about new parts, but have you checked these at all...do you know the testing procedure...and do you have an OBDII scanner. And by SOHC I assume no-VTEC...
IAC: located on the back of the valve cover, by the fuel rail, close to the throttle cable. Disconnect battery, remove IAC harness, remove two screws, remove IAC.
MAP: located about 1" to the pass side from the IAC, disconnect harness and vacuum line, remove mounting screws, remove MAP.
:working:
IAC: located on the back of the valve cover, by the fuel rail, close to the throttle cable. Disconnect battery, remove IAC harness, remove two screws, remove IAC.
MAP: located about 1" to the pass side from the IAC, disconnect harness and vacuum line, remove mounting screws, remove MAP.
:working:
#7
Didn't you posted this problem before? When did it stop and what did you do last time to fix the problem? If you can figure that out, just retrace the steps. Have you change the spark plugs or wires, sometimes that could happen. You have to disconnect the battery etc... It happened to me twice, my car is a 2000 model 60k km. It happened about 30K km when I changed the plugs and wires for some extreme systems.
#8
I had the same problem with my old car (92 Civic ex-v sedan). It only happend to me when the car was still somewhat cold, but it would do the same thing, once I was coming to a stop it would start to shake and the rpm's would drop really low (almost stalling), but like you it never did stall. I had the car in to multiple mechanics and even the dealership, but no one could solve the problem. Even though that car is long gone, I'd be curious to find out what it is if you get it fixed.
#9
Re: Car Shakes when stoping
Originally posted by loudsubz
It happend again today. This is the 2nd time since summer it happend.
I was driving along, and I started to break because it was a red light in front. I hardly ever break hard, since I start breaking so far away, so I put my foot lightly on the brake, and when I was slowing down, the car shook a bit, almost like the motor was dropping below the lowest rpms (automatic car) and was gonna stall, but never did.
After I accelerated again it was fine and hasn't happend since. This is only the 2nd time it happend since summer?
It happend again today. This is the 2nd time since summer it happend.
I was driving along, and I started to break because it was a red light in front. I hardly ever break hard, since I start breaking so far away, so I put my foot lightly on the brake, and when I was slowing down, the car shook a bit, almost like the motor was dropping below the lowest rpms (automatic car) and was gonna stall, but never did.
After I accelerated again it was fine and hasn't happend since. This is only the 2nd time it happend since summer?
couldn't help myself
#10
MAP sensor determines load on the engine, so when an auto car starts to act up like this, it could be a faulty MAP reading b/c of a bad sensor or a vacuum leak in the manifold. The thing that controls the idle is the IAC valve....so even if the MAP gives the correct reading, and this little thingy isn't working, then your idle will be incorrect. So....you have to test both. Other than that...you have to wait for it to become a full time problem in order to trace it.
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