Car dies when I bump beats :(
#1
Car dies when I bump beats :(
Okay, I have an alpine deck with some speakers running off it, and 2 10s powered by an 800 watt amp.
Now, my alpine maxes out at "35" for volume, but I don't usually play it above 25. Why? Because if I play it over 25 (even at 26) after like a minute my amp will turn off and the protection light will turn on. I just turn the deck on and off and it works fine again, but it's annoying to do that so I just keep it at 25.
Last week, my car randomly died while I was driving after I was litening to a song with a lot of bass very loud for a long time... it just turned off while I was driving..so I turned it back on and all was well. This is something that happened before, but it was a very isolated incident so I didn't bother with it.
Well today I was listening to a song, on like 27, for maybe a minute or 2 and then my car died. And now it won't start. It cranks but won't catch.
What exactly causes this? Battery? alternator?
Thanks.
Now, my alpine maxes out at "35" for volume, but I don't usually play it above 25. Why? Because if I play it over 25 (even at 26) after like a minute my amp will turn off and the protection light will turn on. I just turn the deck on and off and it works fine again, but it's annoying to do that so I just keep it at 25.
Last week, my car randomly died while I was driving after I was litening to a song with a lot of bass very loud for a long time... it just turned off while I was driving..so I turned it back on and all was well. This is something that happened before, but it was a very isolated incident so I didn't bother with it.
Well today I was listening to a song, on like 27, for maybe a minute or 2 and then my car died. And now it won't start. It cranks but won't catch.
What exactly causes this? Battery? alternator?
Thanks.
#3
I actually just tried boosting it and it woudln't start.
The starter cranks but it won't turn over
Any ideas guys ?
The starter cranks but it won't turn over
Any ideas guys ?
#5
Originally posted by plzbeleiveit
cams seased in head due to you not letting it warm up in the moring?
cams seased in head due to you not letting it warm up in the moring?
#7
Originally posted by plzbeleiveit
cams seased in head due to you not letting it warm up in the moring?
cams seased in head due to you not letting it warm up in the moring?
#9
OMG it's not the alternator. If the engine cranks but doesn't start, the battery and alternator are prolly fine.
It's some random isht... just take it to a shop. prolly something really wierd.
It's some random isht... just take it to a shop. prolly something really wierd.
#10
But shops cost mad cashmoney.
any experts wanna come look at it for me?
it's parked like dundas and islington.
also, JUST before it died, it ran like *** (like in my other thread, check it) for like 10 seconds, EVEN thoughth is morning it ran perfect even when cold
any experts wanna come look at it for me?
it's parked like dundas and islington.
also, JUST before it died, it ran like *** (like in my other thread, check it) for like 10 seconds, EVEN thoughth is morning it ran perfect even when cold
#11
To see if your car starts. U need spark and fuel. Check for spark. Actually before u do all that check your fuses. Check to see if any of them are blown. Possibly 1 of your main fuse or something. To the key on, check to see if u hear the fuel pump priming. On off and on a couple of times. Is hard to fix cars over on the internet. Better to get someone that knows how to check it.
#12
I don't know about your car stalling and not starting...
But I do think I know the reason your amp shuts off. It can't draw enough current. What gauge wire are you using for the power and ground?
I use 4 gauge for my power wire to my 725rms watts (1400 peak) kicker mono, and an equal or larger ground wire.
Check all connections to your amp, especially the power and ground. Also check where the ground wire is connected to your car. If it's not good enough, you amp will shut it self off cause it can't draw the current it needs.
Hope that helps.
But I do think I know the reason your amp shuts off. It can't draw enough current. What gauge wire are you using for the power and ground?
I use 4 gauge for my power wire to my 725rms watts (1400 peak) kicker mono, and an equal or larger ground wire.
Check all connections to your amp, especially the power and ground. Also check where the ground wire is connected to your car. If it's not good enough, you amp will shut it self off cause it can't draw the current it needs.
Hope that helps.
#13
cant be anything electrical, because it does crank. does the crank sound weak? or is it normal sounding. this question stumped me...maybe something lose???
#14
vtec: I'm using really ghetto thin (not sure what guaga but they're smaller than 4 guage for sure) wires that if ound for free off a friend so you're right it's probably teh problem. thanks for the reply, i didn't realize that thin wires would cause this.
ellick: cranking sounds perfect, just never catches
Thanks for the help guys.
ellick: cranking sounds perfect, just never catches
Thanks for the help guys.
#15
did you run out of gas?
When you turn the key 2 clicks forward do you hear the fuel pump prime for a minute?
Check for spark.
Definately upgrade your wiring, you could potentially cause a fire or something. Might wanna grab a capacitor while you're at it.
I ran a 1000watt amp and 2 12's for the longest time with no problems. I got a cap and it was even better.
When you turn the key 2 clicks forward do you hear the fuel pump prime for a minute?
Check for spark.
Definately upgrade your wiring, you could potentially cause a fire or something. Might wanna grab a capacitor while you're at it.
I ran a 1000watt amp and 2 12's for the longest time with no problems. I got a cap and it was even better.
#17
Originally posted by BlitzSix
vtec: I'm using really ghetto thin (not sure what guaga but they're smaller than 4 guage for sure) wires that if ound for free off a friend so you're right it's probably teh problem. thanks for the reply, i didn't realize that thin wires would cause this.
ellick: cranking sounds perfect, just never catches
Thanks for the help guys.
vtec: I'm using really ghetto thin (not sure what guaga but they're smaller than 4 guage for sure) wires that if ound for free off a friend so you're right it's probably teh problem. thanks for the reply, i didn't realize that thin wires would cause this.
ellick: cranking sounds perfect, just never catches
Thanks for the help guys.
#18
Wow, I hate mechanics...
Me and my buddy tried looking at it, but we coudln't find the problem... fuel was fine, but there was no spark....so then it had to be something electrical....
So we get it towed to a shop, jsu the closests one... and the guy is a complete *******. We gave him the car by 1, and it takes him until 5 to "diagnose" it. The ****er didn't call me when he said he would (ie when it's done) so i have to keep fukcing calling to see when its gonna be done.... how hard is it to call the ****ing customer when you finish looking at their car like you say you would?
Then, he after all this time, he tells me it "might" be the distributor...which I think is BS, because it can't be the distributor... if it was the distributor, then it wouldn't just die while you're driving... your spark would get weaker over time, yes... but it woudlnt jsut turn off on you one day and not start when it started on the first crank before.
And then he tells me it will be 250 to change one, so **** that.
im gonna go and change it myself.... and it will probalby not fix anything, and i'll still be ****ed.
Me and my buddy tried looking at it, but we coudln't find the problem... fuel was fine, but there was no spark....so then it had to be something electrical....
So we get it towed to a shop, jsu the closests one... and the guy is a complete *******. We gave him the car by 1, and it takes him until 5 to "diagnose" it. The ****er didn't call me when he said he would (ie when it's done) so i have to keep fukcing calling to see when its gonna be done.... how hard is it to call the ****ing customer when you finish looking at their car like you say you would?
Then, he after all this time, he tells me it "might" be the distributor...which I think is BS, because it can't be the distributor... if it was the distributor, then it wouldn't just die while you're driving... your spark would get weaker over time, yes... but it woudlnt jsut turn off on you one day and not start when it started on the first crank before.
And then he tells me it will be 250 to change one, so **** that.
im gonna go and change it myself.... and it will probalby not fix anything, and i'll still be ****ed.
#19
Originally posted by BlitzSix
Wow, I hate mechanics...
Me and my buddy tried looking at it, but we coudln't find the problem... fuel was fine, but there was no spark....so then it had to be something electrical....
So we get it towed to a shop, jsu the closests one... and the guy is a complete *******. We gave him the car by 1, and it takes him until 5 to "diagnose" it. The ****er didn't call me when he said he would (ie when it's done) so i have to keep fukcing calling to see when its gonna be done.... how hard is it to call the ****ing customer when you finish looking at their car like you say you would?
Then, he after all this time, he tells me it "might" be the distributor...which I think is BS, because it can't be the distributor... if it was the distributor, then it wouldn't just die while you're driving... your spark would get weaker over time, yes... but it woudlnt jsut turn off on you one day and not start when it started on the first crank before.
And then he tells me it will be 250 to change one, so **** that.
im gonna go and change it myself.... and it will probalby not fix anything, and i'll still be ****ed.
Wow, I hate mechanics...
Me and my buddy tried looking at it, but we coudln't find the problem... fuel was fine, but there was no spark....so then it had to be something electrical....
So we get it towed to a shop, jsu the closests one... and the guy is a complete *******. We gave him the car by 1, and it takes him until 5 to "diagnose" it. The ****er didn't call me when he said he would (ie when it's done) so i have to keep fukcing calling to see when its gonna be done.... how hard is it to call the ****ing customer when you finish looking at their car like you say you would?
Then, he after all this time, he tells me it "might" be the distributor...which I think is BS, because it can't be the distributor... if it was the distributor, then it wouldn't just die while you're driving... your spark would get weaker over time, yes... but it woudlnt jsut turn off on you one day and not start when it started on the first crank before.
And then he tells me it will be 250 to change one, so **** that.
im gonna go and change it myself.... and it will probalby not fix anything, and i'll still be ****ed.
Buy a used dizzy (i got a few lying around) Swap it on, see if it works. ****.. I'll even come to you and put the dizzy on myself
as for your comments about the mechanic. Next time you take it to a mechanic, listen to him. Don't act like you know what it could or couldn't be, because it could be the distribuator, infact there's a good chance that it is cause honda ones aren't the best. I deal with customers like you all the time, you come in, we say whats' wrong and you don't believe it. Believe me, if he put in a new dizzy and it didn't fix the problem, he'd be paying for it, not you. Mechanics don't like firing off the parts cannon w/o verifying the prob. first (atleast most don't)
#20
Originally posted by plzbeleiveit
cams seased in head due to you not letting it warm up in the moring?
cams seased in head due to you not letting it warm up in the moring?
i would first try a capasitor cap..cuz thats close to being the cheaest way out...if not its most definitly the altnator