Car cuts out at idle or sticks at 1500rpm
 

Okay so right now my car is doing the weirdest **** ever!!

the idles jumps from 1500 - 1000 - 1300 - 1000 and sometimes (more now then ever) it just turns off.... and its gettin annoying to start my car all the time

2ndly! if it doesnt cut off it gets stuck at 1500rpm and when i give it gas to go it chokes.. and it will never go back to regular idle..

got a new cat cause it was clogged and car wouldnt start so that fixed a bit, did a throttle clean and it was idling great for... a day, checked my IACV motor and it was really dirty so cleaned that.. it fixed it for a bit.

this doesnt happen when the engine is cold.. once its warmed up and im driving i get these damn issues.. im running out of ideas!!!


TCC!! HELP!!

p.s. This is really pissing me off so unless you actually have an idea of what is going on please help. Those of you who have nothing else better to say, keep it to yourself please

try swapping your IACV with a friend..

man.. that means i have to go make a friend with the same motor lol.. chris do u have one? wanna be my friend?

No you don't.

obd1, obd2 b-series d-series.. all the same crap. I think only the d16y7 is different

oh sweet, so a IACV off a 01 ITR would work then

yea

thanks man ill try that tonight

you don't need to swap.... just unplug it. if it idles fine, then the IACV is your problem.

should i unplug before turning the car on or during idle? cause just now comin home from work the car kept turning off.. **** i shoulda thought of that earlier.. i removed my TB and IACV and stuff to clean it and it idles normal then i gave it a rev.. and i watched the RPM needle drop all the way and the car shut off... and just as i got home it did that thing where its stuck at 1500 and it sounds all weird and its fast idling - ah **** just noticed im on my friends account

never unplug electronics while the car is running. shut the car off, remove the key, unplug the IACV, then turn the car on.

ok i put on a IACV from another car and it does the same freakin thing.. question now is.. is it ok to drive with the IACV unplugged? cause when i have it unplugged i get a steady idle and it doesnt bounce around. I kinda need a steady idle right now for the time being so that the car doesnt turn off on me. I need to find time to bring it to honda or someone to get it checked cause im all out of ideas

what happen if the wires are barely touching, and then you hit a pot hole? then is that consider as unplugged while engine running?

are you ****ing serious?? why do you think all the connectors are latched? wires on a car are NEVER BARELY TOUCHING. if they are, then whoever worked on the car is a ****ing idiot.

wtf??????

ok, sorry let me re-phase it so you can understand better. The first, I said the wires, not the connector itself. Second, what if a squirral ran inside the engine bay from the bottom of the car, and decided to chew on some wires, they are connected, but its barely. You understand what I'm trying to say now?

^^ what do you want to know?

What happens when the circuit is open???

Take a guess.

so will the ECU fired when unplug during engine running? All I'm trying to ask is why can't you unplug any connector during engine running?

throwing a P0505 code, idle control system malfunction....

I heard yellow neons solve this problem

oh ok... that's a more reasonable question. it doesn't mean that the ECU will FRY 100% of the time. there is, however, a chance that you will either blow the sensor or the ECU... now this is a slight CHANCE... but every service manual you ever see will tell you to disconnect the battery (-) before doing any electrical work including sensors.

hope that helps

also..... and this is VERY VERY NOTICABLE WITH NEWER VWs.... any connector that makes a poor connection will MELT WIRES, MELT THE CONNECTOR, OR START A FIRE.

this is because the resistance of a bad connection is very high, and high resistance to electrical load causes heat.... heat melts the plastic connector.... and could cause a fire.

LMAO ****IN STEVE..


this is really good info u guys are postin here, and as much as im learning... any ideas on the original topic

try burping the coolant system, could be air in there.

Its super easy to do and doesn't cost a thing.

well, have you done what we told you to do? if so, post the results, then we can get closer to a sol'n for you.

I tried the IACV off a ITR, cleaned my throttle body, checked for vacuum leaks, changed to dizzy (now it doesnt die on me). tried a new TPS, new MAP, but it still idles all freakin weird...

so results: same thing! rpm needle does alot of bouncin and then gets stuck at 1500rpm

yea zeeman i think i should give that a try, but ive never done it b4...

someone told me to run seafoam to clean my injectors and stuff.. any input on this?

thanks everyone

seafoam is a good idea either way... def try it out

however, your idle problem is not going to be related to a fuel injector problem.

when code p0505 or p1508 are not indicated on a scan tool, check:
ALT FR signal
air cond signal
brake switch signal
starter switch signal
hoses and connections
iac valve and it's mounting o rings

possible causes:
IAC mechanical failure
Throttle body clogged port, improper adj
Intake mani gasket leak
Intake air hose loose
Vacuum hose leak
ECT sensor incorrect output
Throttle pos sensor incorrect output

take the intake tube off and plug the upper air port with your finger.... then plug the lower one with your finger. what happens in each case?

thanks ill def try this tonight when i get home..

So you swapped TPS's?

Did you calibrate it? I bet not, if so.. you have to tap into the sensor clip wires (red+green, i believe), when the throttle is closed it should read 0.4 or 0.5V (I forget which one it is excatly) At WOT should read 4.5V

okay thanks, im gonna try this 2morrow when i got time, but im gonna bleed my coolant first