Boods

i just installed a new upper front strut bar. seemed pretty straight forward. i just removed the nuts, lowered my brake fluid container so the bar would sit properly, then tightened the nuts back down with the strut bar in place. didnt run into any problems or anything wierd along the way, but now when i let out the clutch going in reverse there's the sound of metal on metal queeking. my guess is it's the sound of the strut bar moving in one way or another. is this typical, or is there an obvious fix? im not a fan of squeeky cars

BOND007

do you have a short ram or cold air intake ?
If so it may be knocking

Whiplash

what strut bar??
one of the cheapie generic ones or something good like the DC or Neuspeed??

Boods

cheapie generic ones. i decided to experiment with ebay, and see what i got for $7. figured i could afford to throw it out if it sucked

fixed the problem. what was happening is that when i tightened down the bolts from the support bracket that bolted to ther car, to the bar itself, the bar was moving down toward the engine, reducing the clearance. so when i started the car, and went in reverse, the engine was bouncing up and pushing into the bar. the creaking was the plastic cover on top of the engine. so i made up some spacers, and put em in on the side it was pushing towards, making the bar sit upright.

moral of the story... i was probly right not to buy the cheap headers too

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

I'd throw that bar out immediately

Boods

mind if i ask why? i could really feel a difference in cornering, and it no longer causes the original problem. is it going to cause any damage?

imported_My93Civic

Why in the world would you do that? He got it for 7 bucks and liked the way it felt, so just keep it on.

imported_hdave

^ i think he saus this because those cheap generic strut bars do nothing at all or next to nothing

HamiltonsIsuzu

if it was jdm in the ebay description, it hasta be worth $7

imported_Team Rukus

this statement is not true.

to actually stabalize a car all you litterally need is a piece of metal strong enough for it to be wedges from point a to point b. in this car from shock tower to shock tower.

that being said a generic one does the same thing as one that would cost 1000.00 dollars. if anything the 1000.00 dollar one would be a better fitting and looking one but it does nothing from a performance point of view.

Whiplash

disagree..
the better ones usually have more "science" implemented than the cheapies..
and stronger business as well..
the cheapies are usually some crappy aluminum that i'd be afraid to use to make paper clips...
the more expensive ones are usually aircraft grade aluminum or (as in the Neuspeed) steel

with the cheaper models, the aluminum tends to flex as it can't hold up to even the lowest tolerences, and the method of adjustment (threaded stud with dual nuts) also allows for a weak point...gotta love those 10ga. mounting plates too

again.....imo, DC or Neuspeed

imported_Team Rukus

i was refering to strong metals. ie. 6061 etc....
most generic ones do have cheap metals but you can get desent strength grade metal for pretty cheap.

also generic ones tend to be copies of the real deal anyway so other then its overall finish and strength being the issue its the same thing. without the price tag of a name brand on it.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

ding ding ding!! correct

us old guys know wtf we're talking about