car cranks, but doesn't start
#1
car cranks, but doesn't start
Something wierd happened earlier today. I start my car, and it does crank and start, but as soon as I release the key from cranking after hearing the engine start, my car dies. After about 5 mins of trying, it finally started. Why would it start, then die as soon as I let go of the key? Starter?
#3
Originally posted by Si Veloz
def. not the starter..
might be in the column (it actually thinking you were turning it off..when you weren't)
does the key turn loose when you try and start??
def. not the starter..
might be in the column (it actually thinking you were turning it off..when you weren't)
does the key turn loose when you try and start??
I didn't notice the key turning loose
#4
my civics have done this too
my civics have done this too...
it was usually cause the plugs were old or cause the rotor/cap needed replacement.
Check them out and I'll bet they are dripping wet with gas and slightly darker than normal.
Take care.
it was usually cause the plugs were old or cause the rotor/cap needed replacement.
Check them out and I'll bet they are dripping wet with gas and slightly darker than normal.
Take care.
#5
my car did this once ... I got of the car and looked under the hood everything looked ok (no monkeys pulling apart the engine) so next step I kicked a tire... next step I got in my car and tried again... everything was fine... to this day the problem has never come up again... wish I could help but the best advice I have is kick a tire...
#6
Re: my civics have done this too
Originally posted by johnny23toronto
my civics have done this too...
it was usually cause the plugs were old or cause the rotor/cap needed replacement.
Check them out and I'll bet they are dripping wet with gas and slightly darker than normal.
Take care.
my civics have done this too...
it was usually cause the plugs were old or cause the rotor/cap needed replacement.
Check them out and I'll bet they are dripping wet with gas and slightly darker than normal.
Take care.
#7
Ignition
If a Honda starts at "Start" position but shuts down when the key is turn back to "Run" position... I will suspect mostly the ignition switch harness. The contact inside the ignition switch is worn out. It happens alot on 90-93 Accords.
however, this case is only true when the car shuts down after it had started!!
If it won't start at all.... always check injector signal, fuel delivery and spark-test it first. If fuel pumps' not working, check the main relay... =)
however, this case is only true when the car shuts down after it had started!!
If it won't start at all.... always check injector signal, fuel delivery and spark-test it first. If fuel pumps' not working, check the main relay... =)
#9
Re: Ignition
Originally posted by GMech
If a Honda starts at "Start" position but shuts down when the key is turn back to "Run" position... I will suspect mostly the ignition switch harness. The contact inside the ignition switch is worn out. It happens alot on 90-93 Accords.
however, this case is only true when the car shuts down after it had started!!
If a Honda starts at "Start" position but shuts down when the key is turn back to "Run" position... I will suspect mostly the ignition switch harness. The contact inside the ignition switch is worn out. It happens alot on 90-93 Accords.
however, this case is only true when the car shuts down after it had started!!
Approximately how much would it cost replace the ignition switch?
#10
Hey!
I just changed one for a 90 Accord today at my shop...
That one costs just under 100 bucks. Hopefully it will be simliar or less... as they're pretty much the same thing.
Btw, you're welcome Si Veloz.
That one costs just under 100 bucks. Hopefully it will be simliar or less... as they're pretty much the same thing.
Btw, you're welcome Si Veloz.
#11
You might wanna check your started and or / alternator...when the weather gets cold this kinda crap happens...
it's happened to me and i replaced the starter....does your car have a lag to it when starts? try easing up on your clutch...
it's happened to me and i replaced the starter....does your car have a lag to it when starts? try easing up on your clutch...
#12
???
Use a starter tester to check if the current draw is out of range is a good idea. Usually a inline 4 don't draw enough to exceed 180 to 220 amps. A dragging starter or weak solenoid would increase the curent draw. That means the system has to work harder for the engine to crank over.
A bad starter or charging system only can result a hard start.
But once it starts, the car should have no problem unless the alternator is not charging the battery.
A bad starter or charging system only can result a hard start.
But once it starts, the car should have no problem unless the alternator is not charging the battery.
#14
Same thing has been happening to me, but it only happens once in a while (usually when I leave the car sitting in the cold for an hour or two)
I changed my plugs last summer, but I didnt change my distributer or wires, think that'll solve anything? If I run that blinking engine check light dealie, will it throw out any codes?
I changed my plugs last summer, but I didnt change my distributer or wires, think that'll solve anything? If I run that blinking engine check light dealie, will it throw out any codes?
#15
???
A no-start condition won't store any codes. Unless any sensor, circuit is malfuntioning last time around, the ECU will store a specific code in memory.
Always check main relay if car's fuel pump not receiving power.
and ignitor (or called ignition module) if car's has no spark.
Always check main relay if car's fuel pump not receiving power.
and ignitor (or called ignition module) if car's has no spark.
#16
Originally posted by grego9198
Same thing has been happening to me, but it only happens once in a while (usually when I leave the car sitting in the cold for an hour or two)
I changed my plugs last summer, but I didnt change my distributer or wires, think that'll solve anything? If I run that blinking engine check light dealie, will it throw out any codes?
Same thing has been happening to me, but it only happens once in a while (usually when I leave the car sitting in the cold for an hour or two)
I changed my plugs last summer, but I didnt change my distributer or wires, think that'll solve anything? If I run that blinking engine check light dealie, will it throw out any codes?
It took many cranks to get started and it even came down to where I had to put my foot on the gas to start it.
The car started to run like crap a couple of weeks, so I got one injector changed and now it starts fine, even with my auto starter which couldn't start the car at all on a cold morning.
So I hope that might help a bit. Check out the injectors by pulliing out the spark plug wires one by one and see if any changes occur. If so its probably your injector or plugs.
#17
Originally posted by sketch
It took many cranks to get started and it even came down to where I had to put my foot on the gas to start it.
It took many cranks to get started and it even came down to where I had to put my foot on the gas to start it.
I've noticed one thing these past couple of days though. I kinda have to overcrank it in order for it to start, sometimes.
#18
Ur killin your starter and battery... it's obviously electrical if it's intermittent, so like everyone said, check your ignition contacts... on the key part of it... If you want a cheap solution, rewire it with an Ignited engine start switch, and it should solve your problem, or perhaps if the ACC contact is worn, then you will need a new ignition cylinder altogether. Sketch, this is not the same problem as you had.... the symptoms are radically different by what he has described so far.
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