Can a broken axle be fix?
#5
Either way Aero, it is a BAD BAD BAD idea to attempt to "fix" any susp component as it carries the load of the car. Any heat treatement or welding on such a part will make it brittle, and over the years it will fatigue and collapse. I have pretty much a complete rear suspension sitting around from my 98 Civic, so it's up for grabs if you want it.
#8
Hey bruno...
If I drive down to your place with a few cases of beer..
Will you teach me how to swap out my drums with del sol rear disc's...
Wanna do that before I buy the bushings...
Or should I wait and change everything at once..
Springs(have),Shocks(waiting),Bushings(waiting),De l sol parts(available any time)
Is there any difference in the bushings for the rear if I swap out for the del sol parts??
Will a prothane/energysuspension master kit work still??
If not what bushings will be different??
Thanks B.
If I drive down to your place with a few cases of beer..
Will you teach me how to swap out my drums with del sol rear disc's...
Wanna do that before I buy the bushings...
Or should I wait and change everything at once..
Springs(have),Shocks(waiting),Bushings(waiting),De l sol parts(available any time)
Is there any difference in the bushings for the rear if I swap out for the del sol parts??
Will a prothane/energysuspension master kit work still??
If not what bushings will be different??
Thanks B.
#10
http://www.energysuspension.com/hon1.html
Here you will see it does not list a separate entry for a Del Sol, so that usually means the Sol can be grouped with the 92-95. I would call them if I were you. Generally speaking, if the kits were different in part number, I would order a Del Sol one, since the only thing on your car that is Civic will be the mounting points, which are = to Del Sol ones anyway.
Bring parts instead of beer, and you're on j/k ... I don't need bribes to work on someone's car, but I also don't take it lightly. I mean, for all I know you're gonna have seized up rear lower shock bolts, and then you'll be stuck in Windsor till the dealership opens so we can buy new ones See what I mean...and it's quite common too...to tear off the lower bushing, and then the bolt just spins around uselessly. I will gladly take pics for you and guide you in great detail, but it's definitely best to do this stuff in your own home where you have access to another car. Pretty much the toughest thing is to get rusted on bolts off, and to route the e-brake lines up around the exhaust heat shield. I just bent mine a little bit, scraped up my hands a bit, but it all went well. Another tip, use some lube on the rubber grommet to sqeeze it through the hole, just to make sure it won't tear. And be sure you have fluid, a bleeding kit, and flare nut wrenches (10mm), and bleeder screws. Bleeder screws are $4.33 from the dealer, so just get 4 of them... you should also get a prop valve from the 4w disc Sol, and an integra master cylinder (either the 15/16 non-ABS LS one, or a 1 inch GSR one). I have a 15/16 SiR master cylinder for my car, but it's not installed yet.
Here you will see it does not list a separate entry for a Del Sol, so that usually means the Sol can be grouped with the 92-95. I would call them if I were you. Generally speaking, if the kits were different in part number, I would order a Del Sol one, since the only thing on your car that is Civic will be the mounting points, which are = to Del Sol ones anyway.
Bring parts instead of beer, and you're on j/k ... I don't need bribes to work on someone's car, but I also don't take it lightly. I mean, for all I know you're gonna have seized up rear lower shock bolts, and then you'll be stuck in Windsor till the dealership opens so we can buy new ones See what I mean...and it's quite common too...to tear off the lower bushing, and then the bolt just spins around uselessly. I will gladly take pics for you and guide you in great detail, but it's definitely best to do this stuff in your own home where you have access to another car. Pretty much the toughest thing is to get rusted on bolts off, and to route the e-brake lines up around the exhaust heat shield. I just bent mine a little bit, scraped up my hands a bit, but it all went well. Another tip, use some lube on the rubber grommet to sqeeze it through the hole, just to make sure it won't tear. And be sure you have fluid, a bleeding kit, and flare nut wrenches (10mm), and bleeder screws. Bleeder screws are $4.33 from the dealer, so just get 4 of them... you should also get a prop valve from the 4w disc Sol, and an integra master cylinder (either the 15/16 non-ABS LS one, or a 1 inch GSR one). I have a 15/16 SiR master cylinder for my car, but it's not installed yet.
#12
What is the price on lower shock bolts???
I also forgot to mention that there is Earls ss brake hoses on all 4 corners currently..
Can I reuse the rears with a flaring tool or do I need to buy the del sol rear ones...
I'm all up for being prepared and doing it right..
Why do you think I asked you??
Any kind of parts list I should be looking at before the install??
I don't mind having to buy a small fortune of might break items.
Thanks for the help..
I still owe you a beer from last time...
I also forgot to mention that there is Earls ss brake hoses on all 4 corners currently..
Can I reuse the rears with a flaring tool or do I need to buy the del sol rear ones...
I'm all up for being prepared and doing it right..
Why do you think I asked you??
Any kind of parts list I should be looking at before the install??
I don't mind having to buy a small fortune of might break items.
Thanks for the help..
I still owe you a beer from last time...
#13
94EG6HB the lower shock bolts are cheap, I paid $10 a bolt new from Honda. They lower shock bushing that needs to be replaced is another $32 each so in total your looking at $85 to replace bushing and bolts if they do need replacing.
#16
94EG6HB:
I like your choice of brake lines...where did you get yours?
My lines bolted right up, no flare tool required. It is my understanding that the Integra master cylinder will need some re-flaring with a slightly bigger nut off the integra M/C. Otherwise, the Civic stuff should all work. I don't own a 5th gen, and I've never done one, but I followed the 5th gen instructions on my 6th gen. The rears can be done in 2 hours flat if nothing goes wrong. Last time I did Del Sol shocks, the bushing twisted out so we had to torch the lower shock fork, then melt the bushing out to pull out the bolt. We replaced it with an Energy Susp bushing, and KYB AGX shocks and Eibach Pros. Now, for parts, get the entire trailing arm and all the links attached to it, except where the shock mounts to. There is an upper latteral link, a big *** bushing with two tabs sticking out and another small arm...this should all be pulled from the car as one assembly along with the e-brake lines. I may be mistaken, but I think there are 6+ bolts that hold it all together, so it's really easy. The flex line will bolt right to the solid line on the arm...no biggie there. While you have the arm off the car, you can put all new bushings in, and be sure to grease them all with the provided grease. If you run out, go to CT or Walmart and purchase the same grease as was provided, or if you are feeling rich, get the Castrol Synthetic grease (it's a greem metallic colour). Have lots of WD40 or Liquid Wrench on hand, and anti-seize compund too. Every bolt you pull, put anti seize on it upon assembly. Soak every bolt the night before with WD40 (just lay some cardboard down cuz it will drip). Soak both the head and the other end if you can see it. Before you start, about 1/2 hour, spray them all again. This might help not to stip bolts. Also always use quality tools like Craftsman professional, or Husky. Have a pick fork (ball joint remover from CT - rent it) on hand just in case you have a tough situation. Make sure you have a pipe too, that will fit over the handle of the wrench as an adjustable size breaker bar cuz sometimes it gets a little cramped in the wheelwell. If you encounter a tough bolt/nut, have an old socket of the correct size (or use an imperial one that's close since you will never use imperial on a honda ) and put it on the nut...grab your trusty hammer, and give it a few firm, swift blows. This should help break up rust inside the threads. Use a Chilton manual for torque specs and have a torque wrench on hand. Might-break parts are a waste of time...if you know someone that has parts lying around, odds are you can remove the small bits from his and use them. Ppl at TCC are a good source of spare bits. If you don't have a Chilton, you can call me and I'll look up the specs for you.
I like your choice of brake lines...where did you get yours?
My lines bolted right up, no flare tool required. It is my understanding that the Integra master cylinder will need some re-flaring with a slightly bigger nut off the integra M/C. Otherwise, the Civic stuff should all work. I don't own a 5th gen, and I've never done one, but I followed the 5th gen instructions on my 6th gen. The rears can be done in 2 hours flat if nothing goes wrong. Last time I did Del Sol shocks, the bushing twisted out so we had to torch the lower shock fork, then melt the bushing out to pull out the bolt. We replaced it with an Energy Susp bushing, and KYB AGX shocks and Eibach Pros. Now, for parts, get the entire trailing arm and all the links attached to it, except where the shock mounts to. There is an upper latteral link, a big *** bushing with two tabs sticking out and another small arm...this should all be pulled from the car as one assembly along with the e-brake lines. I may be mistaken, but I think there are 6+ bolts that hold it all together, so it's really easy. The flex line will bolt right to the solid line on the arm...no biggie there. While you have the arm off the car, you can put all new bushings in, and be sure to grease them all with the provided grease. If you run out, go to CT or Walmart and purchase the same grease as was provided, or if you are feeling rich, get the Castrol Synthetic grease (it's a greem metallic colour). Have lots of WD40 or Liquid Wrench on hand, and anti-seize compund too. Every bolt you pull, put anti seize on it upon assembly. Soak every bolt the night before with WD40 (just lay some cardboard down cuz it will drip). Soak both the head and the other end if you can see it. Before you start, about 1/2 hour, spray them all again. This might help not to stip bolts. Also always use quality tools like Craftsman professional, or Husky. Have a pick fork (ball joint remover from CT - rent it) on hand just in case you have a tough situation. Make sure you have a pipe too, that will fit over the handle of the wrench as an adjustable size breaker bar cuz sometimes it gets a little cramped in the wheelwell. If you encounter a tough bolt/nut, have an old socket of the correct size (or use an imperial one that's close since you will never use imperial on a honda ) and put it on the nut...grab your trusty hammer, and give it a few firm, swift blows. This should help break up rust inside the threads. Use a Chilton manual for torque specs and have a torque wrench on hand. Might-break parts are a waste of time...if you know someone that has parts lying around, odds are you can remove the small bits from his and use them. Ppl at TCC are a good source of spare bits. If you don't have a Chilton, you can call me and I'll look up the specs for you.
#18
Ok heres the story, my dad was telling me that he could get a civic sedan for a low price *maybe even free or something* coz the rear suspesion or lower control arm is broken, whatever it is. hes not sure if it is a 5th or 6th gen, I havent seen it yet but according to him it looks better that the boxy 4th gen and its clean and the only problem is the broken suspension, i was wondering how much would it cost to replace the rear axle/suspesion/lower control arm.... can anyone give me an estimate on how much it would cost, I know the info are a lil vague but its all I got.
#19
Marcor automotive...
Magnus special...
$115 taxes in...
I like them too...
Thanks again for all of the advice Bruno...
I have the Helm's for my car...
Electrical manual too..
Love my mom...
Magnus special...
$115 taxes in...
I like them too...
Thanks again for all of the advice Bruno...
I have the Helm's for my car...
Electrical manual too..
Love my mom...
#20
Originally posted by Aero
Ok heres the story, my dad was telling me that he could get a civic sedan for a low price *maybe even free or something* coz the rear suspesion or lower control arm is broken, whatever it is. hes not sure if it is a 5th or 6th gen, I havent seen it yet but according to him it looks better that the boxy 4th gen and its clean and the only problem is the broken suspension, i was wondering how much would it cost to replace the rear axle/suspesion/lower control arm.... can anyone give an estimate?
from the best case to the worst case scenario like the worst thing is changing the whole suspension.
Ok heres the story, my dad was telling me that he could get a civic sedan for a low price *maybe even free or something* coz the rear suspesion or lower control arm is broken, whatever it is. hes not sure if it is a 5th or 6th gen, I havent seen it yet but according to him it looks better that the boxy 4th gen and its clean and the only problem is the broken suspension, i was wondering how much would it cost to replace the rear axle/suspesion/lower control arm.... can anyone give an estimate?
from the best case to the worst case scenario like the worst thing is changing the whole suspension.
I would expect $275 - $350 not including labour...
Hope that helps...