punkindrublic

aside from bad piston rings what else could attribute to this?

my car doesn't blow any smoke except between about 6800-7500 rpms... the smoke doesn't even look blue, more of a black, but i look at my dip stick and oil is definately being burned cause theres no leaks...

but basically i'm wonder if something in the head might slip oil into the combustion chamber? head gasket maybe? the engine has 305 000 kms or so, so i'd imagine all of the above could be at fault

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

do a wet/dry compression test, that should narrow it down

punkindrublic

whats the difference between wet and dry?

dingus88

ya with yoru motor everythign would jsut be worn and the tolerances wouldnt' be there anymore...rings valve seals is another, bad pcv (rare)...start lookin for a new motor cause yours is gonna go soon I woudl imagine if you drive it hard....cheap is slap a d15b in there but yoru building up that other d you said so....how is that si tranny working out..???

head gasket would leak coolant into the oil and chamber's......pull your plugs and tell me what they look like take a pic is best...plug reading is a lost art I find...

dingus88

dry = drain all oil and do a compression test..oil can leak into the cylinders causeing a "good" compression reading when really it's jsut the hydraulic efect and the rings are shot.....I woudlnt' even bother it is obvious and he is building a motor up anyway so..your motor has 300 000 km's it's going to motor heaven soon so dont' bother....you knwo it's half cooked so....

punkindrublic

yes i am building one... and i have most of a spare motor sitting my garage... basically i'm wondering if anything within the head could be attributing to oil consumption? cause if not i could just use that head for now and find another to play with

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

drain all oil??? that's the first I've heard of that...

dry means pull plugs, do test

wet means pull plugs, put a capful of heavy oil inside the cylinder using a syringe to get it in the sparkplug hole, then do the test. the oil will help the rings hold compression in the rings, so if your numbers from the dry test improve, then it's the rings. If the numbers stay the same, then valve seals.

punkindrublic

ah i see... valve seals would be in the head... thats a bummmer...

by heavy oil what would be an example? and it wouldn't matter if that oil is non sythetic cause it'd just get burnt off right? maybe i'll hit that up if i'm not to hung over from b day celebrations...


oh ya that tranny never made it in last weekend... got really lazy and it rained all sunday... with these stellar gas prices rev super low isn't a bad thing anyways

imported_BoOsTd

I found this little tip from a honda mechanic, might be worth a try, i think im gonna try it out, cuz my engin swap is on hold right now (getting paint middle of june instead)


"When a Honda starts to burn oil, it sometimes can be caused by a dirty engine, mainly when the oil return holes in the pistons start to plug. This causes the oil to slip by the rings and into the combustion chamber.

What you need to do is use synthetic oil 10w 30 with a good Fram oil filter and put in a quart of Lucas oil additive. You also need to change the oil every 1000 to 1,500 miles. Do this 2 or more times until the oil you drain out of the engine is not black in color after 1000 miles.

You should see the oil burning becoming less as the engine cleans out"



seems logical and its obviously worked many times for him...

imported_BoOsTd

he also says never to go back to regular oil cuz Synthetic oil permeates the walls of the cylinder to provide excellent lubrication. If you go back to standard oil after using synthetic, the smaller molecules in standard oil will literally slip by the rings because the synthetic oil has already become embedded in the cylinder wall. This will cause your engine to smoke like crazy.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

yeah, many cars foul up their oil control rings with carbon, and they get stuck. you can use GM top engine cleaner or this isht I've never been able to find, it's called seafoam green. anyways, it's all the same isht. GM top engine cleaner is tough stuff. you can also use marvel mystery oil. all these things are strong detergents. they will free up the stuck rings and you'll be set. that's the reason all Saturns burn oil - they are driven by tree huggers so they get all carboned up. I've also heard of ppl pouring water in their running engine. this is not bull****, I'm serious. a very fine mist is injected into the throttle body and it literally steam cleans the cylinders. this is done on older cars that literally would detonate to death on pump gas from all the carbon fouling in the chamber. as you know, some older cars with poor combustion chamber design tend to build up enough carbon to raise compression and start detonating. spraying water in the motor is how they clean it.

I also plan to do water injection on my little beast.

Oh, that GM cleaner and the seafoam green stuff the motor sucks it in through a vacuum line.

dingus88

chrysler has it aswell....there is 2 treatments...one threw the vacuum line and then one where you just pull the plugs and fill the cylinders and let her sit over night then crank otu all the goo start her up for a few minutes...then change plugs and oil...at 300 000 km's I bet your pistons have alot of carbon..would probobly help alot....and that myth about syn and dino is wrong....you can switch back and forth...that myth started long ago in race 2 stroke bikes (before syn became mainstream in cars) people woudl say you woudl seize your piston yada yada..but was never proven and I had switched time and time again so....