imported_daquel

My rear right brake rotor is heating up badly! Does anyone know why or how this is happening. I checked the caliper and it seems to be working just fine. The stock rotor warped a while back and I eventually resorted to AEM big rotors. Now the Rotors seems to be warping as well. I take it for a drive and then check the temp and it is conciderably hotter than all the others. I don't know! Is there something wrong with the master cylinder not letting the caliper release? Or is there a proportional valve that is defective? I don't know much about the braking system, although there cannot be much to them. Cylinder and hydraulic pressure in a nut shell.

imported_94EG6HB

You change the brake lines???

How bout a flush of the brake fluid???

How are you testing the temp???

Did your car come with 4 wheel disc originally???

S2K KID

try switching to a DOT 4 brake fluid...for higher temps....just in case the problem gets worse you wont run the risk of seizing.

bleed the lines.

BB1-4WS

Brakes naturally get hot regardless of what you do. But warpage tends to happen when they get excessively hot, or cooled too quickly.

Are you experiencing any brake fade? Then get the fluid flushed out of the system. This should be done every 2 years under normal driving conditions anyways.

Check if the pistons and slider pins are seized. They can affect how the brakes function, and could cause excessive heat and wear on the brakes. When was the last time you had full brake service performed?

The boiling point of DOT4 fluid isn't that much greater than DOT3. For performance, you should be shopping for something that has a high boiling point (wet/dry), and has low moisture resistance.
Most racers go with a Ford heavy duty formula (550F), or Motul 600. Both are DOT3 fluids, but have greater dry boiling points. However, they are very hydroscopic. So you have to bleed them more often.

imported_daquel

Thanks for the help guys! I'll try to flush the system. I've been using Castrol DOT3 brake fluid. Any good?
I'm still using the original brake lines as well. Want to up grade to stainless.
Originally I found a siezed slider pin on the caliper. Since then I thought the problem was fixed. This was before the brake up grade. I'll take off the caliper again and check it's condition.
I guess if the rotor is warped, I can get it machined. Right?

imported_striderx

machincing the rotor is possible depending on damage its gone thru and how worn out it is. best bet. get new rotors.....safer that way and less headache in the long run unless u got some serious rotors on ur HB. its common for the "rear" caliper to seize up and do some damage so might want to either check that or get some rebuilt ones...i did that for my driver side rear not too long ago.......Vince has seen my brakes before

engineboy

Check your emergency brake lines, they might be ceased or hung up on something. They might release just enough to let the car roll but might still be putting considerable pressure on the rotor. Check their condition, and if it is only one size that is getting hot, it's gotta be something with the brake lines. Do you have a proportioning valve? Good idea to have.