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brakes issue<-caliper wont fit over new setup

Old 11-Jul-2007, 04:41 PM
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brakes issue<-caliper wont fit over new setup

im tryin to install my new rotors and pads...everything has gone smoothly until i try to place the caliper over the new pads..ive pushed the piston in as far as it will go, but it still wont fit...it seems the only way to get it on is to hammer it.

is there anything i can try or should i return the pads and get some other brand.
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Old 11-Jul-2007, 04:42 PM
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OEM pads and rotors?
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Old 11-Jul-2007, 04:46 PM
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no, its cheap CT rotors, and there certified brake pads
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Old 11-Jul-2007, 05:27 PM
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Old 11-Jul-2007, 05:28 PM
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Remove brake master cylinder filler cap. Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.

Use a 10 cm (4-inch) C-clamp and a wood block or other flat stock, like an old brake shoe and lining to seat hydraulic caliper piston in its bore. This must be done to provide clearance for disc brake caliper to fit over front disc brake rotor during installation. Extra care must be taken during this procedure to prevent damage to metal caliper piston.

Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings. Refill brake master cylinder if necessary.
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Old 11-Jul-2007, 06:48 PM
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Jesus christ man....

Before you remove anything off get a flathead/prybar in there and depress the piston as far as you can.. get channel locks and depress it the rest of the way.

Removing brake fluid isnt necessary, if it spills, it spills. Removing the cap also isnt necessary, imo.

I do on average 1-2 brake jobs a day, everyday. I have never removed the cap or siphoned out brake fluid.

Anyways.. put the set screws in the rotor first, tighten up the saddle, make sure the pads are flush with the rotor and the piston is all the way back in. ALso.. watch out for the sliders.. make sure the caliper isnt hitting the sliders. If everything is clear.. and it still wont go on, try the next side. If it doesnt go on you probably have the wrong parts
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Old 11-Jul-2007, 09:50 PM
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in my first post when i wrote pushed in the piston, i meant with the c-clamp all the way depressed.

the problem was the cheap *** pads from CT. The pad is way to thick when compared to their other pads...problem solved.

now my only issue is getting the stripped rotor screw off on the other side
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Old 11-Jul-2007, 10:20 PM
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lol..

use the punch method.
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Old 21-Jul-2007, 11:53 AM
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Wow braunzcrx did you do that drawing in paint? That looks awesome, and fast!
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Old 21-Jul-2007, 01:01 PM
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This is why amatures shouldnt do their own brakes
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Old 21-Jul-2007, 02:14 PM
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^^^ no this is why amatures shouldn t ask questions on TCC must ppl just flame them... try to be a little more friendly next time.. this is a club
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Old 21-Jul-2007, 03:23 PM
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Originally posted by Midori
^^^ no this is why amatures shouldn t ask questions on TCC must ppl just flame them... try to be a little more friendly next time.. this is a club

He makes an excellent point. amatures shouldnt be doing something as crutical as brakes
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Old 22-Jul-2007, 11:08 AM
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exactly my point. A chevy truck came into my shop the other day, no brake pedal, guy tried to do his own brakes.... F ucked everything up, drove around like that for a week. Then brought it in to me , i had to deal with broken/striped bolts. Had to helicoil the spindal..... what a nightmare
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Old 22-Jul-2007, 11:14 AM
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Honestly, I don't even take those jobs. For what they pay, its not even worth my time. Ever had somebody toss on a tie rod and ask you to do an alignment? Those are fun.
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Old 22-Jul-2007, 11:59 AM
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I hate fixing other people mistakes esp. on brakes also. There's nothing like using a 7 lb steel hammer beating a set of drums off because the person before you couldn't figure out how to put shoes on correctly. Plus the bolt holes to help remove the drum were stripped.

Oh yeah it was +30 out with no ac in shop.

Ever had somebody toss on a tie rod and ask you to do an alignment? Those are fun.

Depends..... sometimes you'll get lucky.
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