Brakes Do Not Work
#1
Brakes Do Not Work
Hey gusy here is my p[roblem
recently bleed the brake system and first time around my brakes need to be pressed at least 75% before they actually grabbed slightly at the wheels. but the second time around when i was bleeding the right side wheel no fluids came ou until i opened it a bit more and really asked my assistant to step of the brake as hard as he could and it spat the fluid out REALLY REALLY HARD.
how do i know if there is air in the system?
how do i know the brake lines are not clogged which it seems to be.
the brakes are now better since i only need to press it 50% before it holds hte wheels.
isn't the brake suppose to hold as soon as you push the pedal say an inch forward.
what do your brakes feel like?
thanks
russ
recently bleed the brake system and first time around my brakes need to be pressed at least 75% before they actually grabbed slightly at the wheels. but the second time around when i was bleeding the right side wheel no fluids came ou until i opened it a bit more and really asked my assistant to step of the brake as hard as he could and it spat the fluid out REALLY REALLY HARD.
how do i know if there is air in the system?
how do i know the brake lines are not clogged which it seems to be.
the brakes are now better since i only need to press it 50% before it holds hte wheels.
isn't the brake suppose to hold as soon as you push the pedal say an inch forward.
what do your brakes feel like?
thanks
russ
#4
the brake should be firm and should grab in the first inch of travel. Now, #1, I hope you DIDN'T have your assistant press the pedal to the floor, cuz if you did you have prolly damaged your master cylinder - the brake pedal is NOT supposed to bottom out during the bleeding process. What car do you actually have.... I'm assuming you are not bleeding the brakes on your NSX 1999 so it would be helpful to know what rustbucket you actually drive.
#5
LOL @ Bruno..
Man I learnt my lesson when it comes to bleeding.. I changed a full clutch line and master cylinder on a 99 accord and man it was hell to bleed.. I just kept bleeding, seemed like it wasn't gonna work but slowly pressure starting coming back.. I had to fill the resevior like 4+ times.
Man I learnt my lesson when it comes to bleeding.. I changed a full clutch line and master cylinder on a 99 accord and man it was hell to bleed.. I just kept bleeding, seemed like it wasn't gonna work but slowly pressure starting coming back.. I had to fill the resevior like 4+ times.
#6
interesting facts here.
thanks guys i think i may have damaged my NSX's brake cylinder. thats if it comes with one.
not sure will check it out
but for now i'm bleeding my actual car...its a 96 honda civic si and how much should you press when bleeding and how do you know if you damaged your brake cyclinder?
thansk
Russ
thanks guys i think i may have damaged my NSX's brake cylinder. thats if it comes with one.
not sure will check it out
but for now i'm bleeding my actual car...its a 96 honda civic si and how much should you press when bleeding and how do you know if you damaged your brake cyclinder?
thansk
Russ
#7
Originally posted by meateater
interesting facts here.
thanks guys i think i may have damaged my NSX's brake cylinder. thats if it comes with one.
not sure will check it out
but for now i'm bleeding my actual car...its a 96 honda civic si and how much should you press when bleeding and how do you know if you damaged your brake cyclinder?
thansk
Russ
interesting facts here.
thanks guys i think i may have damaged my NSX's brake cylinder. thats if it comes with one.
not sure will check it out
but for now i'm bleeding my actual car...its a 96 honda civic si and how much should you press when bleeding and how do you know if you damaged your brake cyclinder?
thansk
Russ
Replace it now.
#8
If you bleed your brakes propely, and you are CERTAIN they are bled properly, then pump your brake until it is firm (car off), then press and hold the brake pedal. If your foot begins to sink to the floor, it's time for a new master cylinder.
You need to buy or make a brake bleeding kit. Look some up on the net. For bleeding the brakes, you fill the M/C, then you tell your assistant to hit the pedal while you open the valve... then you close it, and he releases the pedal. BTW there should be a small piece of 2x4 under the pedal to prevent bottoming out the M/C. The process is repeated over and over and over... then you refill the M/C reservoir and you do it again, all until you see no more air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. There is an order to doing the individual wheels. I forget what it is, but fortunately for you it's listed in the repair manual. Also, if your car is equipped with ABS, you need to properly bleed the ABS unit first. I will not go into detail about that. I am also not responsible for ill-equipped ppl doing brake repairs themselves - it's your responsibility to make sure you know what you are doing, I'm not responsible if you don't do this right. Honda use a F/R prop valve, which is why the bleeding procedure isn't just longest path (RR wheel, LR wheel, FR wheel, FL wheel), but rather it's something else... I can't remember off the top of my head.
You need to buy or make a brake bleeding kit. Look some up on the net. For bleeding the brakes, you fill the M/C, then you tell your assistant to hit the pedal while you open the valve... then you close it, and he releases the pedal. BTW there should be a small piece of 2x4 under the pedal to prevent bottoming out the M/C. The process is repeated over and over and over... then you refill the M/C reservoir and you do it again, all until you see no more air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. There is an order to doing the individual wheels. I forget what it is, but fortunately for you it's listed in the repair manual. Also, if your car is equipped with ABS, you need to properly bleed the ABS unit first. I will not go into detail about that. I am also not responsible for ill-equipped ppl doing brake repairs themselves - it's your responsibility to make sure you know what you are doing, I'm not responsible if you don't do this right. Honda use a F/R prop valve, which is why the bleeding procedure isn't just longest path (RR wheel, LR wheel, FR wheel, FL wheel), but rather it's something else... I can't remember off the top of my head.
#9
I bleed my breaks with a peice of clear fuel hose and a plasitc container filled about 3/4inch with fluid... you can see the bubbles come through the line, and bubble in the container... It would be nice to have a bleeding kit tho...
#13
I checked whether or not my brake sinks if i hold it at a steady level when the car is off. and the answer is no it doens't act like that. does this mena my master cylinder is good?
need help coz i still need to press atleast 50% of brake before the brake grabs.
my brake pads are brand new too. AEM brand
bye now
Russ
need help coz i still need to press atleast 50% of brake before the brake grabs.
my brake pads are brand new too. AEM brand
bye now
Russ
#15
if your pedal is firm with the car off, then you just need to adjust and bleed your brakes.
How low it grabs - part of that problem is the adjustment of your rear brakes, I'm sure. The rest of it is bleeding the whole system.
I'll say no more about this, as you should have a manual to begin with, esp considering you are obviously not familiar with car repair (AND you are working on your BRAKES of all things) If you are not comfortable with that, we have affiliates who will do good work for you.
How low it grabs - part of that problem is the adjustment of your rear brakes, I'm sure. The rest of it is bleeding the whole system.
I'll say no more about this, as you should have a manual to begin with, esp considering you are obviously not familiar with car repair (AND you are working on your BRAKES of all things) If you are not comfortable with that, we have affiliates who will do good work for you.
#16
thats great can i get some names of affiliates please.
and not those that will take a look at my car and say "hey your transmission is gone, even though i have not looked at it, you need to replace it and now give me some money's."
not about to do that. but if anyone trusts people and know they are honest and are located in the mississauga area then send them this way.
thanks everyone
and not those that will take a look at my car and say "hey your transmission is gone, even though i have not looked at it, you need to replace it and now give me some money's."
not about to do that. but if anyone trusts people and know they are honest and are located in the mississauga area then send them this way.
thanks everyone
#17
Originally posted by Tman
"need help coz i still need to press atleast 50% of brake before the brake grabs. "
That should be a sign your master cylinder is toast.
"need help coz i still need to press atleast 50% of brake before the brake grabs. "
That should be a sign your master cylinder is toast.
now more info would help but statements like the above quoted is not helping me out at all. just humouring me.
thnaks
#20
Originally posted by Tman
Do you take your brakes seriously?
I doubt it. You don't even know how to bleed your own brakes properly and your insulting ME?
BAHAHHAHA
Your a noob.
Do you take your brakes seriously?
I doubt it. You don't even know how to bleed your own brakes properly and your insulting ME?
BAHAHHAHA
Your a noob.
was pointing out the fact that you keep saying my master cylinder is gone and you do not explain how you come to tis conclusion.
details maybe of EXTREME help here.
sorry i can't read yoru mind to figure out what you are trying to say.
and about that annoying word "noob" this is what i gots to say " yo dawg, ain't no noob. and i'm gonna **** u up"(J/K)
thanks