the BFH has been defeated
#1
the BFH has been defeated
ok I know with rear drums a hit from the BFH and off they come ... but this time that ain't the case they won't come off
does anyone know the screw size thats used on those 2 small holes to pop the drum off?
does anyone know the screw size thats used on those 2 small holes to pop the drum off?
#6
use a torch around the studs but do not head up the bearing, this will expand the drum and allow it to come off.
For the scews, use an impact driver (a must when workign on honda suspension or brakes)
For the scews, use an impact driver (a must when workign on honda suspension or brakes)
#7
please dont go anywhere near there with a torch its totally un nececary, our bearings dont like heat they will fry and u will have noisy bearings by next year... this isnt a 1970 dodge truck here
stick with the enginers design and use the bolts...get the proper sized bolts to fit into the drumm and use a ratchet, tighten the bolts till they hit the hub, then alternate bolts back and fourth one turn at a time to keep the pressure equal untill the drum pops off. It works eveytime.
size of the bolt, id have to go out to my garage to check... but if u have anysort of haynes or helms manual it will tell you the size and thread corse.
and of course make sure the ebrake is disengauged...
stick with the enginers design and use the bolts...get the proper sized bolts to fit into the drumm and use a ratchet, tighten the bolts till they hit the hub, then alternate bolts back and fourth one turn at a time to keep the pressure equal untill the drum pops off. It works eveytime.
size of the bolt, id have to go out to my garage to check... but if u have anysort of haynes or helms manual it will tell you the size and thread corse.
and of course make sure the ebrake is disengauged...
#8
i cant tell you the exact thread size i cant remember but any honda bolt with a 12 mil. head will fit.
dont use a torch as im sure u wouldnt.
just take the hammer and give it a good shot at the top edge and bottom edge it should come off no problem.
dont use a torch as im sure u wouldnt.
just take the hammer and give it a good shot at the top edge and bottom edge it should come off no problem.
#11
Originally posted by bbarbulo
haha..... poor poor gatherer. sorry I wasn't online for this one....
I usually use the caliper bolt from the front, it's also an M8 and works perfect.
haha..... poor poor gatherer. sorry I wasn't online for this one....
I usually use the caliper bolt from the front, it's also an M8 and works perfect.
ohhh well I definiantly bent something when the hitting of the hammer I'm going to have to un beand it today ...(think it's calls the splash sheild or backing plate ... it's the piece of metal that attaches to the trailing arm and all the brake stuff attaches to it .... I bent an edge of it when wacking the drum.... sometimes I'm such a tool!
#13
for future reference... a light tap MAY be needed, but it hardly ever NEEDS a beating I've never hammered anything on my car except when that axle wouldn't slide out of the bearing.... and that needed some persuasion.
#20
Originally posted by loudsubz
how did you strip 2 studs taking off the wheel?
how did you strip 2 studs taking off the wheel?