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-   -   beaks kit installation on 1.6EL (https://www.civicforumz.com/honda-civic-performance-jdm-discussion-14/beaks-kit-installation-1-6el-84175/)

imported_alwaysoverkill 26-Oct-2005 01:30 PM

beaks kit installation on 1.6EL
 
I have a CTR 22mm rear sway bar with a beaks kit i'm trying to install on my 1.6EL.

The stock 13mm bars u shaped brackets are smaller, the 22mm bar brackets and beaks kit line up but both do not line up with the stock subframe mounting holes, how is this thing installed?

i'll take some pics so it shows what i mean but the holes are off by like 10mm now. i can re-use the top hole, but the bottom is 10mm lower then the hole on the subframe.

DefconDave 26-Oct-2005 02:01 PM

I believe you have to drill holes into your subframe. The Beaks kit will sandwich the frame afterwards.

Nova_Dust 26-Oct-2005 03:08 PM

^ yup.

Drill that extra hole below the existing hole (the lower one). Go buy the bracket and bushing at Acura, use the one for ITR (22mm). Bolt the bracket using the top hole, then you will see where you need to drill on the lower one.

Word of advise, after you install it, when ever you go from a slope to a flat surface, i.e. driveway, try to drive down straight, meaning, all 4 wheels are on the flat surface as oppose to drive out slanted. People do that to avoid getting their front lip spoiler scratched but you will realize that going on an angle from a slope to a flat surface, it will make you go "3 wheeler", especially the rear tire (or vice versa if you turn onto a slope) and when that happens, the wheel that is in the air puts stress on the subframe due to sway bar effect. After a longer period of time, this will induce problem and potentially causing it to damage the subframe.

My car is lowered, and with 22mm sway bar, I get that effect so I will remind myself not to do it. I don't use Beaks Kit but I use a full reinforce brace across the subframe. Although it is guarantee not to damage the subframe, I still try not to do 3 wheeler whenever possible. Even if it means I have to scratch my front lip, big deal. It is meant to take hits, and no one can see the damage anyway. But a subframe tear out will make you cry for days.

imported_alwaysoverkill 26-Oct-2005 03:24 PM

thanks guys, figured i'd have to drill. i've already got all the hardware so i'll drill soon.

and thanks Nova, i've heard about the 3 wheeler thing, so i'll have to watch for that. I plan on getting a custom brace made that will tie both subframe's together but, thats gonna come later.

i can't wait to see the difference this puppy makes, although its gonna take some time to get used to it

imported_SaYjAiBaO 26-Oct-2005 03:29 PM

careful, your rear end will come out a lot faster. :thumbup:

imported_alwaysoverkill 26-Oct-2005 10:28 PM

emailed beaks and got instructions which are on the site but were not working lately. gotta drill, so i'm going to thread the hole as well so the threads on both the beaks kit and the subframe will tie it together with more strength. will be on tomorrow night to join its new partner, a GSR upper strut brace bolted directly to the front strut towers :D now only rear upper custom brace left which i want to leave the rear seat fold down space available

then go driving in a place i can experiment with it, to see what kind of limits it holds before it will step out...never hurts to know how far you can push it before it goes too far.

imported_alwaysoverkill 28-Oct-2005 12:41 PM

installed, holy **** what a difference in handling. I should have done this as my first upgrade even before springs/shocks. the rear lightly steps out now when taking an on-ramp at good speed, did not feel unsafe at all. this was with stock susp and winter tires too, but so far i'm loving this thing. worth every penny!


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