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B20b Vtec Build

Old 14-Aug-2006, 04:20 PM
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B20b Vtec Build

Hey guys, been a plan on my mind for awhile...
Running a JDM B20b bottom end with Ls non vtec head....

I'm looking for the most reliable and cheapest way to make this baby go faster. So i'm thinking of going vtec.

First of all i wanted opinions on head... B16 or B18 (GSR)
Other than installing a complete head what other things are crucial for this build.


- Port & Polish (to head)
- Cams
- Cam Gears
- Flywheel
- anything else?

basically looking for anything THAT MUST BE DONE to make the engine reliable and fast for now

Currently my b20b has:

DC sports headers
HKS short ram
2.5 exhaust ( cat punched )
H23 ECU ( don't ask me why, it came with the car i don't know )
CTR Cams ( so i was told )

All opinions and comments accepted
LOOKING For parts too :


B16 complete head / b18 complete head
and any parts i would need

ALSO install / tune services prefer people who have had good experiences
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 04:21 PM
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i have a b20z head....
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 04:32 PM
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How can you be running CTR cams in B18B head is beyond me. Unless the VTEC lobe are machined/filed down, but even then, not sure if it is possible.

Click me
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 04:40 PM
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honestly i didn't build the engine
came like that with the car
probably bs about the ctr cams but thast what i was told :S

need some serious help with this engine and knowledge
been doing reading though so don't flame me if i ask / say something that has already been answered

btw nova
Saw you 2 weeks ago on bovaird
I was eating at Giggling tomatoes as u drove by (hink i mentioned it in the sightings thread but meh )
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 04:43 PM
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I would firstly get the golden eagle conversion kit.. it keeps everything clean and tidy and saves you some work.. and isnt even that expensive. Between a gsr and b16 head.. i would probably choose a b16a2 head because the b16/b17 heads flow better than the c1 heads, and they are more common/cheaper than c1 heads. An advantage to a c1 head is that since they have smaller CC the CR is a bit higher but not by much. I would just buy whatever head you find the cheapest that is in good condition. If you want more aggressive cams chances are your valve to piston clearance will need to be changed by either cutting deeper reliefs, getting aftermarket pistons, claying the motor, etc. Zeeman always bashes the DC header on how crappy they are so I know when he replies he's going to tell you to buy a different header.. if you want a cheap decent header check out vibrant (thats what I'm getting) or if you feel like spending a lot of money.. there are plenty of excellent companies that make great headers for $800+ Finally.. with whatever setup you get.. crap an obd1 ecu (if your car is obd2) and get a good solid tune.

But before you decide how much headwork or engine work you want done.. you should decide what numbers you want to reach.. and how much this is going to run you (with labour).

For labour.. i'd go with zeeman
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 04:52 PM
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looking 200 whp - 210 but would be ideal
Something i can beat 05 type-s's ( because for some reason they are so god damn fast. ), the damn h22 eg's (awesome fast), and of course almight ITR's

Zeeman always bashes the DC header on how crappy they are so I know when he replies he's going to tell you to buy a different header.. if you want a cheap decent header check out vibrant
yup dc headers are bad, knew that already said it in the post haha how much does the vibrant header run? woudln't mind if i have extra cash for it

For labour.. i'd go with zeeman
before i created this post i already pm'd him regarding some questions and labour as i've read around the forum highly recommended
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 04:56 PM
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Originally posted by xplizitremix
looking 200 whp - 210
fat chance unless your ready to do some research and drop some dollars!!
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 05:00 PM
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hmm i saw a build up didn't look too costly putting down 198 to the wheels
so shoudln't be too bad

Ideal now is to hit 200 to the wheels
and save up for boost after
cause too expensive now for boost and i love the music of vtec
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 05:01 PM
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b20 200whp basic set up

jdm b20b shortblock
itr/ctr cams
decent header w/2.5" collector
untouched stock pr3 head
oem t/b
port matched p30 im
fakedata im gasket
2.5" str8 pipe, 2.5" mandrel exhaust
sri/cai w/good filter
full tune
190-200whp all day long

quote from m power It can be done..
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 05:03 PM
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Originally posted by chris_si98
b20 200whp basic set up

jdm b20b shortblock
itr/ctr cams
decent header w/2.5" collector
untouched stock pr3 head
oem t/b
port matched p30 im
fakedata im gasket
2.5" str8 pipe, 2.5" mandrel exhaust
sri/cai w/good filter
full tune
190-200whp all day long

quote from m power It can be done..

thats exactly what i was referring too
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 05:06 PM
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it aint impossible ...but it aint cheap
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 05:07 PM
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how much do you plan on dropping into this motor?
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 05:19 PM
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around $1500-$2000
Max |
hopefully less if possible get some parts here and there
get some good labour hookd ups etc but i gotta see still in the process of planning thats why i wanted to see whats out there for help and parts

(alot of people will say why not go EBAY TURBO...) but cheap parts i don't turst it
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 05:46 PM
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-b16 head
-Golden Eagle VTEC Conversion Kit
-ARP Head Studs (GSR)
-ARP Rod Bolts
-RS Machine B20 High Comp Cast Pistons
-Vibrant or similar Header with 2.5" Collector
-2.5" header back exhaust
-3" Intake
-Fully Tuned (street and dyno)

that should be good to start with and once you need more power you can drop in some cams etc. I would also consider getting some cam gears since your cam timing will be slightly off.
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 06:28 PM
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Now if your building your motor for boost you cant put high compression part in. But if your going to n/a raise the compression like a ****.
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 06:46 PM
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if you wanna make as much power as you say...i think a larger investment than 1500-2000 is required. if your doing all the labor yourself than you will save alot. but if you dont have experience i wouldnt risk it.
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 07:46 PM
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so fare capo is the only one with a build even resebling reliable and decent price but he forgot cams skunk pro 1's

rs machine pistons

skunk pro 1's valve train

decent header

arp rod and head bolts

b16 head

try and keep it below 8500 rpm

that should be a baic outline

shoudl get you 190 ish whp easy
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 08:57 PM
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but will cost much more than $1500-2000.

If you are going to spend the money, DO IT RIGHT. Which means, take the block to Gord Bush and have him do all of your machine work. Balance the rotating assembly (extremely important for high revs and longevity, which is important when spending this kind money), deck the block, have him resize the big ends of the connecting rods b/c you need to use ARP rod bolts. If you're using new pistons (which is a must for over 200whp) definately buy oversized pistons and bore/hone the block, and if you know you're going to spend a lot of time over the factory redline (like 6800rpm or so) i would suggest line honing the main journals. If you have some extra cash left over i would recommend having gord do a valve job for you (this will also get a free install of your new valve train, if you do valve springs/retainers change your valve seals...they cheap and might as well change them while you have got the springs out). Don't forget that if you change the pistons you will also need new rod bearings and if you're changing the rod bearings you might as well change the main bearings and thrust washers (rod/main bearings $300 from honda).

If you still think you can only spend $1500-2000 you're crazy. Hell a stout 2L bottom end will cost more than that, i know mine is going to.

For 2g's you can get a b16/gsr head ($400-500), golden eagle vtec conversion (which i highly recommend....$300ish), ARP head studs (you need new head bolts at least, which OEM are about $12/each or $150 for some ARPs), gsr/itr water pump/timing belt (very important if 7000+rpms are desired $300 or so), chipped p28 (about $200), a decent header ($400-600) and maybe some left over for some tuning.
If you have to pay for assembly/install you're way over your budget.
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 09:30 PM
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For 2g's you can get a b16/gsr head ($400-500), golden eagle vtec conversion (which i highly recommend....$300ish), ARP head studs (you need new head bolts at least, which OEM are about $12/each or $150 for some ARPs), gsr/itr water pump/timing belt (very important if 7000+rpms are desired $300 or so), chipped p28 (about $200), a decent header ($400-600) and maybe some left over for some tuning.
If you have to pay for assembly/install you're way over your budget
With this setup it'll be reliable and running pretty quick?
if so i'll stick with it and do the smaller upgrades after



btw: who is gord bush
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Old 14-Aug-2006, 09:41 PM
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Originally posted by dingus888
so fare capo is the only one with a build even resebling reliable and decent price but he forgot cams skunk pro 1's

rs machine pistons

skunk pro 1's valve train

decent header

arp rod and head bolts

b16 head

try and keep it below 8500 rpm

that should be a baic outline

shoudl get you 190 ish whp easy
yeah i didnt wanna get to into it but skunk2 pro1's or rm22x's would be a good cam to think about for the future.

I also didnt mention the stuff zeeman did like all new rod and main bearings, vtec water pump, 98+ oil pump, new timing belt (GSR), bore/hone, resize rods with rod bolt installation etc etc. Your gonna have a tough time getting to where you want for $1500-2000 but if you find used parts and get some good deals it may be possible although you wouldnt be able to put new pistons etc in because the machine work alone is gonna cost you almost 1/2 your budget.
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