nadir

i had a sir and when vtec hit, it was noticable...Now, with the b20, the car is faster, but i cant hear the change over...Im thinking it mite be due to the fact that i am using a facotry b20 oil pump....I know i should have used a sir or a type r , but ,im i usually shift at 7100 max anyways, and that motor is built to handle that rpm with the factory oil pump...This is a 2 part question

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

check the part numbers for the b20 oil pump and the ITR/GSR pump from 98+.
Did you use a vtec water pump/timing belt? Thats more what i would be concerned about.
Are you sure vtec is working properly?
How is your oil level?
Are the oil pressure sensor and vtec solenoid hooked up?
I personally know PLENTY of people that have used the stock b20 oil pump without any problems.

nadir

i used a b20 oil pump, with b20 water pump and a gsr timing belt...

nadir

should i put a gsr water pump ...ive gunned the car a few times so i dont think no damage could have been done...the coolent levels are fine, the car does not over heat...Its also only been a few weeks since i have had the car...should i go and swap a gsr water pump...also, i still have the ticking sound coming from the head...can that be from not using a proper water pump...

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

If you use the ls/b20 (19 teeth) water pump you need the ls/b20 timing belt, if you use the gsr/itr (22 teeth) water pump you need the gsr/itr timing belt.

Mugen Power

i've heard that maintaining proper water temp is very important with vtec motors. so, if there is one thing that i would most definately do, its install a vtec pump and timing belt. well, i would do more, but, this should be done at the very least.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i've heard the same.
The reason a vtec water pump is necessary is b/c it has more teeth (a larger pulley). So that means the water pump will spin slower, which is important, especially at high rpm. If the water pump spins too fast, it will be moving the coolant through the engine to quickly, and the coolant won't get a chance to absorb the heat from the engine....especially important at higher rpms.
And maintaining a proper water temp (about 170-195 degrees) is important for vtec engines.

nadir

my mechanic doesnt know which one he put in, but gsr timing, he said he ordered a few water pumps and the one that fit was the one he used.....I think it must have been sir or gsr

imported_FlashPoint-Matt

any b-series water pump will fit. For a proper build it is suggested that you use a b-series v-tec waterpump with GS-R timing belt.

In regards to the problem your having I would check the V-tec solonoid's engagement at normal operating temperature.

If your head is noisy there are many possibilities. If an inexperienced builder assembled the motor there are many problems that can occur.

1) Was the V-Tec oil pressure channel in the head tapped and properly redirected to the solonoid?
2) Was the dowel re-drilled in the head as it should have been or was it simply removed?
3) Was the proper headgasket used or was the OEM headgasket properly modified for the LS or B20 block to fit a v-tec head. Chances are if the dowels werent done, neither was the head gasket.
4) Where new headstuds used?
5) Where the cam bearings torqued down properly?

If your mechanic doesnt know which waterpump/timing belt combo was used chances are hes never built this kind of a setup before. That being the case you should have this matter investigated by someone who has experience with these setups.

If you know of anyone that has exepreince ask them or send me a PM and I can give you a helping hand in figureing the issue out.

nadir

well well, my vtec hits now...it was the solonoid...He didnt wire it correctly.....so now its done...now, im not too sure what water pump he used...he does a lot of cars so he doesnt remember..he doesnt even remember when i forget to pay...looll

Mugen Power

sounds like he doesn't care. g/l, man. he doesn't remember cuz he doesn't want to tell you. if anything goes wrong, atleast you can use the excuse that he has a bad memory. its funny, because 99% of people don't forget money that is owed to them. so, i'll bet he didn't change ****. in the end, i've always found it idiotic not to pay your mechanic, and believe he doesn't remember. don't forget, you put your trust in him. and in turn, he expects you to pay. trust me, he hasn't forgotten a damn thing.

nadir

Well considering my car takes about 1000 a week for maint. Im always coming every day to drop off a few hundo...so sometiemes it mite slip but im at aleast 10gs this summer in maint

nadir

for instance, i did a cluth master clutch last year, then i changed it again recentsly, then i bought cams, only to find out they are too big, then i bought new type r cams only to find out my lost mottion assembly and retainers are bad, then i changed valve springs..This is all 2 weeks....Then, i find out he didnt use correct timing belt, or change water pump. tomorrowi gotta go get that done...for 300 ...parts and labor..Only to fin dout my cold air intake has a hole in it...Then ,my cat or my new header i thik i smakin a reatling noise..WHich i all did 1 month ago, bought from reputable suppliers from tcc....Then only to find out im still runing lean, to buy new injectors , injector clips and a resistor box and labot about 350 installed..Only to find out my car wont start cause im runing rich, so i gotta tow it to a dyno to tune it at 550...**** doesnt end...car maintenece is non stop...once you start, cause you cant leave this **** half way...OOh ya, plus regular other meaintenece

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

dude....u need a new mechanic.
If this guys telling you do change all of these parts, then clearly he doesn't know what he's doing.
I mean, obviously, if you get new injectors you're going to need to tune. You don't necessarily need to spend $550 on dyno tuning, when a good street tune will suffice. You could've spent way less on injectors. There is a very simple way to test if LMAs are bad or not.
Anywho, seriously dude, i wouldn't be going back to this same guy anymore....he's just randomly picking parts to replace and charging you out the a$$.
Not trying to be a dick, but seriously, sounds like you're having a hell of a time with ur current mechanic.

imported_eth0r

just curious, has the motor been just built? how many km have you put on the motor, if its fresh.. some motors take a little while to break in..

newman

Does your mechanic also tell you to bend over and grab your ankles?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ hahahahaha

"so, what do i owe ya?"

"umm, give me, uhhh, actually screw it, just bend over and grab your ankles"

lol...i'm just playing, calm down.

1sykcoupe

i dunno much abt motors, but an sir is more for performance, than a crv motor. But a crv has much more torque n therefore faster... but isnt a b16 still better to build on than a b20

chris_si98

why not combine both?

1sykcoupe

b20 bottom end?
whats a realistic whp goal for an sir... all motor or turbo