B18C1 w/ LSD?
 

Hey everyone,

I went to Japan Auto today, only to find out they want ~$9000 for a complete B18C5 assembly, and cannot guarantee me an LSD transmission with that setup...

I don't want the C5 because there can be great savings in building up just the C1. Would my best bet be to get the LSD tranny separately, but will it bolt straight up to the B18C1? Also, I currently have a B16A2 in a 2000 SiR Coupe, and I want to know if the aftermarket clutch I bought from Clutchmasters will work A.OK with the B18C1...

I'm not doing work to the B16A2 because I still need to drive the car while the new engine is on the stand, getting internals upgraded for boost, I will resell the B16A2 after the work on the new engine is complete.

Thanks for your help everyone who responds, I just want to make sure I make the right choices here... and I for SURE want the LSD!:kickass:

first off there is something wrong with this because there is no way in hell at all that a b18c5 setup could possibly cost $9000
and if it is imported from Japan it would not be a B18C5 but rather a b18C. even for the entire front clip of the car that is way way way over priced you should be looking more at $4-5k complete setup

All R setups b16b and b18c's come factory with an lsd so you would be getting a LSD tranny no matter what, that statement too, makes no sense

if you are going to build it, then u have the right idea. There is no point in the C5...however u can sell the R internals as there is demand for them, but in ur case u wont be dumping the motor in until it is built... not enough cash will be made back to justify buying one (c5) in the first place.

well if you are going to be building ur motors bottom end and pushing serious boost the factory LSD would be useless to you anyways as they are really only good for 250-300whp max. buy a b16 tranny..or better yet keep urs u have now and buy an after market LSD that can handle power. The b16 gear ratios are the same as usdm ITR tranny anyways so u'll be ok, just steer clear of a gsr tranny as they have longer gear ratios. keep urs, it just makes sense.

Yes

like i said u might as well keep the b16 tranny, but the answer is YES. Hydro B's clutches/ flywheels are all interchangeable

i have a b18c1 with an LSD... goodbye sir tranny cars on turns... my traction owns you!!!!!

Not if you dont have a crank pulley bolt mike lol

haha he got it fixed today zyepher...

I have a B18C block with a C5 head... i have a 00-SiR Tranny

FOr me the gears are too short.. .im sitting at 4000rpms @ 120km/hr .. but it sure is quick off the line :)

If your planning on boosting the car the GSR tranny is a better idea... and besides aftermarket LSDs i find are better IMO

quaife LSD ftw!

Thanks for all the input guys,

With regards to Japan Auto, and who I was dealing with, he was either trying to gouge me, or just didn't know what he was talking about... I couldn't figure out where the hell he got "About 9000 for a complete C5 setup". Rediculous. I was told the price varies depending on availability...mhmm...

someone mentioned buying an aftermarket LSD tranny, what are some manufacturers? I see someone mentioned Quaife, do they provide a decent product?

With regard to the family of B18s, is it the B18C1, or the B18C, that people are boosting? I thought it was the B18C1...

I think i'll be getting the whole B18 package, minus the tranny, and go with an aftermarket LSD, due to the fact that I'm shooting for anywhere from 250-350whp, which doesnt sound good being that the ones from the integra can only handle 250-300 ... the whole idea here is to have a reliable setup.

agreed :D

Man if you want a C5.. or anyswap call teknotic... you will pay up to 6Gs but im certain they do a good and thurough job and there all nice guys there give themn a call or even visit their website.

If your boosting... with a B18 make sure to build up your bottem end the Qaufie IMO is the way to go.. and yeah your right the GSR Tranny only supports up to 250hp.. im not sure though or maybe 200 i honestly forget. just make sure your lsd can support the horsepower your putting out and you should be fine... oh.. and if your getting up to 250whp ... get some sticky tires lmao :)

I am going to make my best effort to get there, still living at home and no serious commitments... I think I may deliver a quick coupe:checkered

If I went with Quaife for the diff, what would I do about drive shafts?

in canada/US the gsr block is stamped b18c1 in japan it is stamped b18c

in can/US the Type-R motor is stamped b18c5 in japan it is stamped B18c

they can be differentiated in many ways though...

gsr = p72 head
itr = pr3 head

they have different intake manifolds and tb's....etc

you use the OEM honda drvie shafts

**** All in all i think u need to do some more searching yourself and research the route you want to take because all these questions are very simple/basic things that most people know off the top of there heads

anyways goodluck

Yea, for sure...that's what I'm up to now. Thanks for your help man.

what do u want to do exactly with 250-300 whp?
track would be out of the questing since boost for track is stupid imo
drag is the only thing i can think of you want to do.
and with 250-300 whp you will be what in the 12 second category.
personally i would save all that money and go a completely different route.

gsr lsds should be good for 200/250-300 whp... i wouldn't go much more than that... i just want a solid 220whp 170ft-lbs with boost or if i do a NA built i am going for 190whp 135-140 ft-lbs tq to the wheels...maybe more if possible...

the b16lsds are crap and i think can only handle up to 200whp or something like that before ****ing up...

The Drive Shaft shop stage 2 would be good if you go that route. My brother has stage one on for about three years no problem and he has a LSD tranny.

for a usdm or jdm itr motor complete, you can find a good deal around 3500-4000. anything more then that and ur getting ripped

i have gsr tranny and i'm sitting at 4000rpm @120km/hr as well... don't we all have the same final drive? or did my 14" rims made the difference?

whats the b16 head stamped?

pr3 also

isn't one something like pr3-3 or something? to tell the diff of the heads?