mike2204

I accidently put this thread into the wrong category:

ok, I've got an eg hatch with a B18C (did the swap about a year ago) and it's just not as exhilarating as it used to be.... so I was thinking about going turbo. I was wondering, what exactly "should" I get to do the installation easily and properly?? and also if anyone knows, how much does each part generally cost?? (I can't seem to find a kit for under $6,000) I want something that will still be reliable (as it's my only car at the moment) but I need something that will be more fun and I've heard many say the B18C is "bullet proof" so I'm not TOO worried.

I've already upgraded the suspension (Koni's and new springs), kumho 205/50 tires and all the other usual upgrades/mods.

Thanks for everyone's help!!!!!!

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

well in order to have a reliable turbo'd daily driver its going to cost a lot of money.
boost + reliability = $$$
lots of power = $$$
My advice to you is be prepared to spend big $$$ on tuning....tuning is KEY.
IMO, if you want a little more power b/c your bored of just the swap (i know what thats like, been there, done that) get all of the bolt ons, intake, header, exhaust, larger throttle body, better intake manifold, then get some good cams, whatever daul valve springs and ti retainers that the cams will require, and if you can afford it maybe some headwork....port and polish, valve job, mill it a bit to get a little more compression and go get her tuned. You will be happy with the results, it won't cost $6000, it will be a reliable, nice and peppy, daily driver....just my $.02.
But if you really really wanna boost don't skimp on any of the details, especially since this is your daily driver.....turbo'd cars are a little more high maintainance than even a heavily built n/a car.

imported_SaYjAiBaO

did you upgrade your brakes? that's very important, especially if you already got a B18C in there. i'm assuming you mean B18C1 right? not B18C5 or B18C (JDM type R motor). because if you have the R motor i wouldn't even consider boosting it.

mike2204

sorry, yea I meant the C1 (gsr); I haven't been able to find a set of gsr brakes (the ones I want) but in the meantime my oem system is doing alright... but a nice set of gsr brakes would be ideal.

imported_SaYjAiBaO

then i wouldn't even consider boosting yet until you upgrade your brakes. stock brakes are a JOKE! couldn't stop for beans even and i'm on my stock motor. your going to kill yourself if you boost it and don't upgrade the brakes.

Younes Si

damn...that will cost you about that much ^^, but if it's your only car like me i would do that, however everybody loves the sound of a BOV

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i completely built my head for just over $3000.

mike2204

so I guess the concensus is to go n/a over forced induction??

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

its your choice. FI is high maintainance, especially for a daily driver, even more so if its your only car. N/A just takes more money and knowledge to get big numbers.

LEITNER

if you dont like doing alot of maintenance then dont go turbo ( i wouldnt anyway ). i have an engine for you. b18c 2.0l 220 whp 159 lb/ft torque, say $5500 plus your old engine. think about it and le me know. (ask anybody in this forum about it, its chalk full of quality parts and tricks and it WILL rip your face off)

here is the dyno sheet.

oh..it was built by a very knowledgeable guy!

civicdude84

you want power go turbo, enough said.

cee_mon

nice motor Leinter *thumbs up*
And civicdude....you are gonna need about 300whp with a turbo to talk to a 220whp all motor.

I have a daily driven turbo D, and other than small things the car has never been down for a day.

KNIGHT RIDER

go to G2ic.com and search for the 300whp LS motor. thats right NO vtec and Stock internals. and your B18c1 has stronger internals so what u waiting for.....of course tuning is the key to any motor, whether it be NA or FI, and if tuned properly, turbos are VERY reliable. I recently put a turbo on my 92 Integra, but i havent got it tuned yet, No problems whatsoever. It runs zippy but of course i am not allowed to beat it yet. I still gotta put it the bigger injectors and tune it and then we be talking 250whp and yes, this is a daily driver

Younes Si

^^ how much did you get your turbo for? or was it all custom built like most of them are?

Chigga1

Yup i agree G2ic!!!

i have a 2nd gen Teg which has gone for body...
comng out Championship white

anyways since i have the perfect platform, and already good torque figures and low compression im boosting my LS.
now mind u i have decided to buld my own with the help pf my boys who has a 400HP civic and boosted SIR, very knowledgable

though its more maintenance! the hunger for speed will never satisfy ur soul!

remember since the GSR is running High comp, Tuning is Key to any relaibel turbo Build

220whp ALL MOTOR is my opinion is phenomenal

QuiCK_TiME

too much maintenance required for a b18c-T.
go LS-T. lower compression is key for turbo.

scarlemthug

Stock Sleeves, forged internals, turbo B18c1 produced 650whp on H-T.

KNIGHT RIDER

I actually bought my kit from maxboost. He pieced it together and then decided that he wanted ALOT MORE boost....LOL. I got everything for 2000. I see there is someone else selling a pieced together kit for like 1700 I think. It looks like a good deal.

Kunundrum

I built my Turbo Kit for my B16 for under 2000$ with all farly desent components... but it all depends on your budget and desire.

to Build a Good Turbo kit should need no more than 3000$ this wil yeild you a desent 7psi daily driven car... but chances are you will want more... if you know you will want more, build your block. (sleeves, rods and forged pistons) so tack on an other 2000$ at least.

Now as it was mentioned, turbos are high maintenance, that is why I ditched my setup and went N/A because I needed a reliable car for school.

all in all the build cost be about 4000$ but I know it's BulletProof... and was originaly designed to take a 100shot of Nitrous.

that was including EVERYTHING block, head, crank... ect.

Now Depending on what you want, you have options, A few of my friends have B20Vtec motors that are Impressive. one that was slapped together was getting like 165whp and 155lbs torque. Untuned with B16 cams (tiny) we put in GSR cams but never dynoed it afterwards.

What I would do is take your block ad get it sleeved to 85mm, get some eagle Rods and Wiseco Pistons with a CR of about 11:1 Slightly bigger injectors (320cc) a V-AFC, Cams, P&P Springs and Uberdata tune it.

you would be looking at about 4000$ and get in the 230whp range or so with it... this would also be Reliable, if afterwards you want Nitrous... it's ready, if you want to go turbo, just change the pistons and bolt up the Kit.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Whats the point of a vafc and uberdata?....vafc's suck. They alter the MAP signal, which means, as you add or subtract fuel it alters the ignition timing as well. With 11:1 CR and a built head i would use a little bigger injectors than 320's maybe prelude peak and hold 345's.
But if you are going to sleeve the block why only run 11:1? Go with something a little higher....12.5:1....maybe even higher if its not a daily driver. Your CR will dictate what cams to run and how big of injectors you need.

Lol, just change the pistons.....you speak as if its like changing your spark plugs. If changing your pistons was that easy i'd be running like 13:1 CR in my car right now, but its not, and i know that putting pistons in my b16 would be a waste. I am not saying that b16's suck by any means, i am just saying that displacement owns.